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A quickie

Discussion in 'Projects' started by mark tomlinson, Jan 26, 2015.

  1. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    This came from this object:

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:40687

    Printed it with woodfill just for the effect.

    No real post-processing done at this stage other than removing supports and repairs. This was (as I like to call them) an impossible print. Even with Simplify3D and supports there was not enough internal support in the model to be able to remove supports and clean it up without breakage. So I carefully chose the break points and then repaired them.

    I will do a bit more cleanup, sanding and then probably clear-coat it.
     

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    8 people like this.
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    This is only about 5 and half inches long, 2 inches tall. Not really very big.
     
  3. k1e1v1i1n

    k1e1v1i1n Active Member

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    looks pretty sweet.
     
  4. Robert Choban

    Robert Choban Active Member

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    Mark what were some of the parameters you were using (speed, heat, supports, hot end tip size, etc). Any thing special you need to do when printing with wood?
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    They suggest a larger nozzle (>0.4) but I have had decent luck with the 0.4 -- I did try a 0.6 and that was certainly fine, but not noticeably better.
    I think clogs is a worry below 0.5, but with an oiler it is not a problem.

    Attached is the PLA profile (the FFF from Simplify).
     

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  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    generally speaking the wood needs nothing special. Bear in mind that printing it hotter will make it print darker...
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Other than the automatically generated supports from Simplify I added nothing.
    I will warn you that getting them out of the nooks and crannies in this model (even as easy as those are to remove) is what makes this an impossible print. You are really going to be hard pressed to not have it break simply due to the way the model is built. It has a lot of areas that have nothing to support it inherently. But, by choosing where to break it and making them clean ones, it glues back together nicely :)
     
  8. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    Nice print Mark!
    Robert, Here is some guidance on printing with woodfill http://learn.colorfabb.com/how-to-print-with-woodfill/

    Personally, I advise using a larger nozzle. Then you can sort of throw most of that advice out the window and print it however you want because the flow rate is high enough that you have little to no risk of the wood drying out in the nozzle and clogging. I regularly print 100 micron layers with a 0.8mm nozzle with woodfill, which I've found nearly impossible to do with a standard 0.4mm nozzle.
     
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  9. Robert Choban

    Robert Choban Active Member

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    Thanks Matt, do you sell a .8mm nozzle for a hexagon hot and for a e3d v6 hot end.
     
  10. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    I only have the .8 for the E3D, but it will work on the hexagon as well. You can use E3D nozzles on the hexagon, but cannot use hexagon nozzles on the E3D.
    If you have any extra nozzles laying around, for a .8mm nozzle, the finish really isn't that finicky. You can drill one out by hand and still get great results.
     
  11. milks

    milks Member

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    Sweet! Do the wheels turn?

    I've just discovered Slic3r's pillar supports; they've (so far) been a silver bullet to the on-going support problems I've been having.

    Makes me think we should run occasional print competitions - present a challenging-to-print model and see who can get the best results. Would be a good way of discussing optimal settings and sharing the knowledge :)
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Sadly, no. The model had them solid. Perhaps someone will 'volunteer' to tweak that ;)

    I will need to try the 0.8 nozzle next time I mess with the WoodFill. my go-to on most stuff has been the 0.6, I use it for most everything.
    At the moment I have a 0.4 that was really almost a 0.5 -- a wee bit off. I just 'adjusted it' to a 0.5
     
  13. BrianFraz

    BrianFraz Member

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    I can vouch for using the e3d nozzle on the hex hotend. I bought the e3d V6 from Printed Solid (great service all around from there btw) and got some extra nozzles for it. However, I was new and still working on getting good prints. I ended up clogging my stock nozzle for the Hex, and instead of installing the new hot end I decided to just replace the nozzle so I could finish the print I had going.

    I have to say, that was one of the best things to do, the shape of the e3d nozzle has a flat tip which helps smooth out the layer unlike the stock nozzle. Everything seems to print so much better now. Everything is going so well, I haven't even put in the e3d hotend yet. I will as soon as I get time to design a new fan bracket for it with my 12 V blowers.

    I would say everyone should replace the stock nozzle with the e3d nozzle right away, and get some wire (http://www.mcmaster.com/#6517k63/=vnz1am) to shove into the nozzle as it heats up on every print. Since I started this I have completed two 25 hour prints and a 40 hour print without problems.
     
  14. Robert Choban

    Robert Choban Active Member

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    Brian, the wire you are talking about in the above post, what size nozzle are you using, and why are you using the wire on every print.
    Also are you using 2 fans for cooling the parts and if you are how does your hot end fan attach
     
  15. BrianFraz

    BrianFraz Member

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    That specific wire is just slightly smaller than a .4 mm diameter nozzle (just multiply inches by 25.4, so this case ~.356 mm). You can get all kinds of different sized wire for different nozzles. I do it before my long prints and maybe every 3 or 4 shorter prints to break up any gunk on the inside of the nozzle and let it come out. That way it wont slowly build up and clog up the nozzle like a heart attack.

    As far as cooling, currently I am rocking the stock cooling but do have plans to upgrade that in the near future. Right now I have been printing in ABS (which I love, but did have to get two heat lamps to tame warping) a lot so I am not using any cooling.
     
  16. Robert Choban

    Robert Choban Active Member

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    Brian what is the procedure you use with the wire, for example.
    1. Heat up the hot end
    2. retract the filament
    3. insert the wire, move it around to cleanup what's inside the tip.
    Is this correct or am I missing something
     
  17. BrianFraz

    BrianFraz Member

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    Usually my last print finished off the build platform by a few inches at least. So on the next print as the print head is heating up I bend the end of the wire with ~1/2" sticking up at a 90 degree angle. I grab that piece with a pair of needle nose pliers and once the extruder temp is over 100-150 C or so, I shove the wire in the nozzle and wiggle it around trying to rub against each side.

    Really nothing too special. I don't do any retraction or anything prior to reaming out the nozzle. Sometimes it comes out clean, sometimes there is some black gunk on it. I do all of this before the heat finishes heating up so I don't interrupt the print at all.

    I have also used this wire to clear a plugged nozzle. I heated it up with a lighter and worked on the old hex head nozzle until i was able to completely clear it out.
     
  18. Robert Choban

    Robert Choban Active Member

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    Brain, thanks for the response.
    When do you think you will be switching over to the E3D hotend and when you do, are you going to run new heater wire back to the Ramps card or use the existing heater wire that is there from the Hexagon hotend?
     
  19. BrianFraz

    BrianFraz Member

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    Started a conversation with you to avoid hijacking this thread :)
     

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