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Solved A Tale of Two Prints.

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by astro boy, Dec 9, 2017.

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  1. astro boy

    astro boy Member

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    Let me first give some info of what I'm running:
    Robo 3d r1+
    simplify 3d
    pla @ 210/60 for bed, hairspray for stick
    meshmixer for cutting the model.

    I have been trying to print this a380 jet in a large scale (350% of normal) from thingverse. I cut the model into sections using meshmixer and printed the sections at 100 percent with no issues. After changing to 350% I noticed the walls being very thin, which I did not mind so much and also the window details were having some gaps I believe having to do with bridging. In any case I decided, I could live with these flaws and print it the way it is. I decided before starting to make some changes. I added an oil cup, and changed the filament to blue. The result is the print pictured on the right. If you look at the closeup where im slightly pulling it apart, the layers are not sticking properly. I thought this would be because of underextrusion so i upped the extrusion multiplier to 1.0 from .90 I also changed the shells from 2 to 6 to thicken the walls from outer to inner and decided to add 5% infill the result is the model on the left. Now I am getting globs or "zits" on the model and it still looks (if you look at the closeup) as if the layers are delaminating in spots. Some flaws I can live with and clean up manually later but I would really like to eliminate as many as I can before printing. The blobs just have to go and the delaminating... I'm not sure about. I'm going to be doing sanding and filling when finishing of course but I'd like to keep it to a minimum.
     

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  2. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Here is a list in no particular order

    1. too much oil
    2. too little extruder heat which results in poor intra-layer adhesion
    3. set Extra Restart Distance in S3D to a small negative number
    4. set Coasting Distance to the inverse of the Extra Restart Distance

    Did you actually calibrate the extruder? If you are using the stock firmware I can tell you that you are under-extruding and the esteps should be closer to 800 instead of the 723.38 that Robo uses by default.

    S3D has some visual tips pages located here, follow their advice. https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/
     
  3. astro boy

    astro boy Member

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    Hi Waldo...
    I didn't Calibrate my extruder. Is there a good model for that? And how would I make the changes in the firmware?
    I have done some research and I did look at the troubleshooting link you provided before which gave me the idea that I was underextruding. That's why I increased the extrusion multiplier from .90 to 1.0. But then I started getting the "zits".
    I've had a number of very successful prints. this one seems to be giving me a hard time.
    I'm in the process of making a new spool holder which I think will give me less resistance on the feed. After making the oiler it seems there is a little more resistance on the feed with the top spool holder I made, especially with the blue roll since it is thinner and has a lager diameter to pull from. but I don't really think it's so much resistance that it's causing under extrusion. I would think the hobb bolt would mar the filament and I would see it if that were the case.
    any more Ideas would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks again
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  5. astro boy

    astro boy Member

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    Thank you for pointing me to this video Mark. I'll go through the steps sometime this week, very informative. I thank both you and Waldo for your help. I'm going to mark this solved because I think this information will set me on the right track towards calibrating my printer finally and getting better results altogether.

    thanks again
     
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