1. Got a question or need help troubleshooting? Post to the troubleshooting forum or Search the forums!

Anyone else try Taulman Bridge?

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Doug1, Sep 2, 2014.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. Doug1

    Doug1 New Member

    Joined:
    May 30, 2014
    Messages:
    43
    Likes Received:
    2
    I have been playing around with a spool of Taulman Bridge but have been having all kinds of issues. Initially, I had a lot of problems getting it to extrude smoothly. Have been running it at 245 for the extruder and a bed temp of 80. I upped the temp to 250 and it seems to be flowing easier, but printed parts still do not seem very strong. I am also getting a lot of warping. Like way worse than what I had with ABS. I do not think I can get the bed any hotter as it taking a long time just to get it to 80. I also notice some popping and hissing, I am assuming from moisture in the filament. It is not a lot, but it does seem to be affecting smooth flow of heated filament. Has anyone had much success using this stuff?
     
  2. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2013
    Messages:
    6,967
    Likes Received:
    2,277
    First off Nylon is very absorbent to moisture from the air. It's advised to keep it in a desiccant to prevent that.

    Secondly try turning your speed down, 10-25 mm/s max. Bridge is pretty flexible so it will compress when it gets too much back pressure. This compression will cause it to expand and bind making the flow inconsistent.

    Check the thread here for more info: http://forums.robo3dprinter.com/index.php?threads/new-taulman-nylon-bridge.1822/
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,917
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    Like @Mike Kelly said, it needs to be dry. I also keep mine with desiccant. Print S.L.O.W.
    I run the bed at 50 deg. if I run it at all...

    As for the printed parts, mine are strong, but very flexible.
     
  4. Doug1

    Doug1 New Member

    Joined:
    May 30, 2014
    Messages:
    43
    Likes Received:
    2
    So, you are printing with low or no bed temp and you are not getting any warp? Are you using any bed adhesive? I have found using glue stick to work the best so far with Bridge. If I try printing Bridge without any bed temp, it warps horribly. But then again, I am getting warp with a heated bed as well. I already lowered the speed to 30mm/s (I am assuming you are talking about the Speed setting for the Printer in Repetier? That is the only place I see anything about mm/s.) from 50mm/s but that did not make much of a difference except to take longer to print the part. Honestly, if the only way to make it work is to slow it down even more, I am not sure it is worth the lost time and increased trouble.
     
  5. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2013
    Messages:
    6,967
    Likes Received:
    2,277
    30 is still too fast. There's lots of benefits to bridge, but like everything else it has it's downside.

    PVA gluestick is the best method for bridge.
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,917
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    Very little. I do sometimes run the bed at 50, but no more than that.

    Blue tape with glue stick.
    <shrug> Don't use that software. It is travel/print speed in Simplify3D.

    It is strong and (very) flexible. Thinner parts are incredibly 'bendy'. Thicker parts less.

    Slow. Thick. Hot. Those are the keys to this (similar to ABS) but with *vastly* less warp.
     
    #6 mark tomlinson, Sep 2, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 2, 2014
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.

Share This Page