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Anyone try 20 microns yet?

Discussion in 'Show and Tell' started by Jeff Uberstine, Feb 10, 2017.

  1. Jeff Uberstine

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    Based on the printer specs, the printer is capable of 20 micron prints, which is virtually SLA quality. Anyone given it a try yet?
     
  2. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I havent seen any prints other than .1 and .2

    I wonder if you have to change to a smaller nozzle? I have a hard time believing a .4 nozzle can do 20 micron. Then again my robo is running a .15 nozzle so its capable of all sorts of cool resolutions :D

    Let me know if you try it and have a few pictures?
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yes, search the forums (@tesseract provided tests and pictures).
    He did 10 micron prints (on a Beta -- pre-R1 even).
    Takes :
    1) patience 'cuz you will be printing slow
    2) getting the printer well tuned
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    IMHO if you need prints at that resolution get a smaller printer and it will be easier to get it tuned to be at the precision you need.
    But this one can do it. Picture are out there :)
     
  5. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    it is rediculously slow going. I did 10 micron as well and its painful. 15mm tall 15mm diam = hr print time.
     
  6. Jeff Uberstine

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    I was asking more if anyone has done it on a C2, Not R1. I can't seem to find any prints on a C2 of that RES. Am I missing something @mark tomlinson

    I only ask because I am skeptical about 20 microns on a Robo C2 with the stock nozzle but why would they claim it if it were not true?
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I doubt anyone has tried it with the C2, but give it a week and I will :)
    However, that said, I see no reason why the two would have any real difference in that area in fact I suspect the C2 will perform better since it is covering a smaller print area and has less drive train MASS to move and to wobble.
     
    #7 mark tomlinson, Feb 10, 2017
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2017
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    And when @tesseract did the 10 micron prints they were with a stock (0.4 mm) nozzle.
    I doubt the C2 is larger :)
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It is true that a general rule of thumb is to stay within 30%-70% of the nozzle diameter for a layer height... However that is a general rule and applies to getting the best prints with no other changes. There is nothing to stop you from doing a smaller (or larger) layer height on the stock nozzle and still getting good prints. There are a lot of factors that impact print quality and one of them is print speed. For that small of a resolution you would need to bring the print speeds down (a lot) too. Make sure the extruder is prioperly calibrated as well.
     
  10. Jeff Uberstine

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    Sounds good. I've done 60 microns prints and they come out fine. I'll do a 40 micron next and if that goes well, do a 20 micron. Will post images when I have them.
     
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  11. Robert55

    Robert55 Member

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    Geof, I'd appreciate some advice on the smaller nozzles. I tried a .2mm and it clogged in about 5 minutes...lol...of course, I forgot to put in a wiper/oiler...

    Sent from my LGLS996 using Tapatalk
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You need to slow down too or you will jam up.
    Reduce the speed by the same factor you reduced the nozzle size.

    04.->0.2 means cut the speed in half (assuming you reduced your layer sizes as well and why would you not?)
     
  13. Robert55

    Robert55 Member

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    Oh, I slowed way down. Layer height of .1mm, etc. I kind of figured a .2mm nozzle only lets one photon through at a time....lol... It was a 2 process print of a business card. 2 step Business Card found on #Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2052212. I used a .8mm nozzle for the base layer. The smaller one is for the lettering. It worked with a .4mm all the way through. First try with a nozzle swap.

    Sent from my LGLS996 using Tapatalk
     
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    if you dropped both nozzle and layer height that much you needed about a 75% reduction in speed :)
     
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  15. Robert55

    Robert55 Member

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    I didn't quite go that far. I went about 66%. 3600 mm/min to 1200 mm/min. But, at the moment, I'm at work, about 10 hours away from my machines. Probably for another 3 weeks...sigh...

    Sent from my LGLS996 using Tapatalk
     
  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The higher you tweak the detail the slower you need to go. That alone may not be the problem, but you should start there. Good luck.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
     
  17. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    For a .25 nozzle i dont exceed 20mm/s. When i started at .25 it was 5mm/s, tweak and tune to find a speed you like. .15 nozzle. 10mm/s -20mm/s depending on the model

    It takes alot of testing to dial it in.
    I make a profile for each nozzle size. Makes swapping easier
     
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  18. Robert55

    Robert55 Member

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    Thanks. Any cleaning tips?? I noticed that I'm not really able to see through the tip like I can with a .4mm. And an "E" guitar string is like .002in too big...lol

    Sent from my LGLS996 using Tapatalk
     
  19. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Just run an oiler with pla and wipe the nozzle if its dirty.

    Cleaning a jam i remove the nozzle and use a small propane torxh to melt out any plastic. Then reinstall and season.

    Thats on all size nozzles. I dont like sticking abrasive materials in a brass nozzle :)
     
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  20. Robert55

    Robert55 Member

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    Just checking - S3D likes mm/min - I was at 20mm/sec... I should have done an "easy calibration piece" before I dove into this print. Easy Material Settings Calibration Piece found on #Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1023717

    Sent from my LGLS996 using Tapatalk
     

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