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Are these suggestions implemented?

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by RobertGeorge, Feb 2, 2016.

  1. RobertGeorge

    RobertGeorge New Member

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    Hello,

    Just watched this video ( ) and they guy mentions some great fixes he made to his Robo 3D.

    Which, if any, of these fixes have made their way into the most recent versions?

    Thanks
     
  2. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    That video is well over 2 years old now :) There has been significant improvements to the printer well beyond what he mentions

    Kinda wish he'd just take down that video because it's so out of date
     
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  3. RobertGeorge

    RobertGeorge New Member

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    On the contrary, if that video didn't exist I wouldn't have given Robo 3D a second look. He's still a big fan of the products and should be encouraged to do a follow-up video.

    I can see from recent videos that the products have lighting.

    Did Robo 3D include the stabilizers to the tops of the guide rails?

    Has the extruder head been upgraded?
     
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  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yes, and no (assuming he was using an R1 and not a beta).
     
  5. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    • Video at 1:22 Spool Holder, the supplied spool holder actually works very well, but if you need something different here is a list of things you can print, http://www.thingiverse.com/search/page:1?q=robo3d+spool&sa=
    • Video at 2:10 McDonalds Straw, not really necessary, especially if you use a spool holder that comes straight down from above or use a filament guide of some kind.
    • Video at 2:49 Hotend, Robo supplies a hexagon hotend with all their variations of the R1. It is a perfectly serviceable hotend. There are nicer hotends available on the market, but if your Hexagon works well there is little compelling reason to change it.
    • Video at 3:40 LED, already included, the older R1's use crappy blue LEDs that don't provide any real advantage over no LEDs at all, the newest ones changed the LEDs to white, a significant improvement.
    • Video at 4:13 E3D hotend, this is probably the most done upgrade to the Robo R1, it just works and is a nicer hotend than the Hexagon, as it is totally rebuildable. But the supplied Hexagon is not bad as a hotend.
    • Video at 4:45 LEDs rehashed, already included in the R1
    • Video at 5:17 Fan Shrouds, again there are a ton of them on Thingiverse, take your pick, http://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=robo3d+fan&sa=. This is a must if you replace the hotend with an E3Dv6.
    • Video at 5:35 Greg's Wade Extruder Gear, The Robo R1 (all versions) use a simple standard Greg's Wade extruder, there are numerous replacement gear sets for this extruder, if you are looking for something new, might as well print a herringbone gear set, all with the inherent advantages that herringbone style gears provide. Pick from these, http://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=greg+wade+herringbone&sa=, all available on Thingiverse and printable on a default RoboR1.
    • Video at 6:24 Z axis limit switches, these were totally redesigned and there is no need to change them or any available upgrades.
    • Video at 6:54 Z Axis Stabilizer, all newer R1 and R1+PLUS printers have the Z axis rails extending to just under the printer top. There the rail sits in a circular enclosure that acts as a stabilizer, no need to print the one suggested. You can place a piece of open or closed cell foam in the circular area to reduce any vibration.
    • Video at 8:08 Bed level, this isn't really an upgrade but rather a best practice, it is true regardless of the printer you own. You no longer need to turn any lead screws, M565 command in your start up gcode takes care of any offset for you. If you have your bed as mechanically level as possible, the Marlin 1.0.0 auto-bed-leveling does work reasonably well.
    • Video at 10:56 Quirks, a truer statement cannot be found, all printers have quirks.
    The Robo guys should probably send Barnacles a new printer so he can update this video.
     
    #5 WheresWaldo, Feb 3, 2016
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2016
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  6. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    No he's not. They've severed all ties and he no longer supports robo in any way.

    Waldo does a good breakdown
     
  7. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    He has a beta, or maybe 1st generation Robo.
     
  8. Jimmy Husain

    Jimmy Husain Member

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    Since we are on the subject matter, I don't want to post a new thread.

    Which correct file do I need to print for my Robo Plus?

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18379/#files

    & do I need to print the gears also? Can I just use the stock Plus gear?
     
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  9. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @Jimmy Husain
    1. You want the J-head version.
    2. The Herringbone gear set runs quieter and meshes better than the original gear set with less backlash. If you are going to print new gears you should really print those as it is an upgrade over the stock gears.
     
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  10. Jimmy Husain

    Jimmy Husain Member

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    Nice! I am with the E3Dv6 so that will also work with the J-head?
     
  11. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Yes, but you may need to reprint the quick clip. The Hexagon has a 4.2 mm groove and the E3Dv6 has a 6 mm groove. Someone already posted one on Thingiverse, here.
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1192896
     
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  12. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

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    New to the forums! Just got my Robo R1+PLUS

    I am looking at switching to the herringbone gear, simply because it is a better part. But when I look for a set, I see most of them have other parts to print as well. So my question is can I print the gears only and install or do I need the other brackets as well? Also what type of material should I use to print something like this.

    Are the herringbone gears the same ratio as the originals or will this mess with my calibration?

    Thanks in advance
     
  13. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Yes you can print just the herringbone gear set, yes it is the same gear ratio, you must calibrated it anyway as the default Robo setting has no basis in reality.
     
  14. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

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    Great! Thanks Waldo. BTW huge fan of Fallout here!

    I did watch a video on calibrating (i believe it was posted in this forum somewhere) so I will have to execute it after I print the gears.

    Also on a side note: I am buying the Full Graphics Smart Controller today, but I am going to need to purchase a couple sd cards as well. Are there any specs for the sd card to be used in the controller? Memory Size? SD or SDHC? Speed Class?

    On reprap they are using an ADATA 8GB SDHC card.

    I did not realize SD cards had some many options!

    Probably should have created a new thread for that question?
     
  15. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    I am using an old 4GB card, it is so big I can put hundred of files on it for printing, although I don't. you just don't need anything too fast or too big. Go cheap, but reliable.
     

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