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Auto bed leveling malfunction robo c2

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by PXLGEAR, Jan 15, 2017.

  1. PXLGEAR

    PXLGEAR New Member

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    does anyone know hot to fix the auto bed leveling.its pin pointing about 5mm above the bed and starts to print the supplied sample prints about 2mm above the bed.have not printed single item since received it on friday.
     
  2. Cory Harpell

    Cory Harpell Member

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    Did you run the z offset wizard? and are you using the supplied black tape square?
     
  3. PXLGEAR

    PXLGEAR New Member

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    Yes i ran the z-offset wizard multiple times, i was unable to print the test key chain and the wavy vase test models.but i uploaded my own test print using the robo cura software and ran the z-offset again and this print is actually printing now.did notice that the probing does not actually contact the build surface.not sure but i think this is normal i think it uses sensors to probe and not the switches . all switches were installed correctly and actuated when i ran the homing sequence.so not really sure what was going on exactly but its working now.
     
  4. Sam Mayo

    Sam Mayo New Member

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    Hi all

    I have this problem with the C2 too.

    I can't get it to auto-level correctly so it starts to print the plastic in air the further it gets from the front of the bed. By the back of the bed the extruder is 3 or 4 mm in the air. Happens on every print at the moment :(

    I've tried different z-offsets but this just moves the 'sweet spot' further back. The front of the bed is then unusable as it is too close to the extruder.

    Any ideas?

    Thanks

    Sam
     
  5. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Hi Sam and PX,
    Not many of us have C2 (none of us older members) nor have seen one so dont exactly know how it works in the C2 set up. It may be a very good idea to contact Robo directly for support (all of us here are members, none of us work for Robo).

    I know this isn't a super helpful response but hopefully steers you in a direction that gets you up rolling again.
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    As more of the new printers get out and about that will improve, but for now @Geof has nailed it.
    You folks are the new wave of the user community :)
     
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  7. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    maybe if @Harry comes around soon he can lend a hand, but support will be the easiest. I believe they have a 24/7 phone number as well as email contact.
     
  8. Sam Mayo

    Sam Mayo New Member

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    Thanks Geof and Mark. I've created a ticket with support and will update here when I know anything.
     
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  9. Cory Harpell

    Cory Harpell Member

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    I guess im one of the few who has a r1+ and the C2!

    PLX - the probe doesn't contact the bed at all because its an optical sensor. I have noticed that it wont work without the black tape on the bed. I tried blue painters tape and it doesnt see it. I also had a few times where it just lost the setting. I have had to go into the wizard and run again.

    If you havent already, I would suggest using the "cura for robo" download, using the new profiles on github, redoing the z offset wizard, slicing the file in cura and printing it from the UBS drive. I had a different version of cura that had a z offset in the start code that messed with the print. The new version and profiles doessnt have any and has been working very well for me.

    Also, one question... When you run the wizard and have the offset, what number does it give you for the offset?
     
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  10. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @Cory Harpell You could eliminate all of that with MESH leveling, since it only needs to home the axes to work. But I am not sure that the version of Marlin 1.1.0 that Robo used for the C2 has it. I believe they used Marlin 1.1.0 RC6, I don't remember when MESH was introduced into the newest version of Marlin..
     
  11. Sam Mayo

    Sam Mayo New Member

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    I get between -4.8 and -5.0 when I've been experimenting with z-offset on the C2.

    no Cura for Robo on Mac yet :(
     
  12. Cory Harpell

    Cory Harpell Member

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    Sam - just send you a file to try...
     
  13. Sam Mayo

    Sam Mayo New Member

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    That prints much better! Thanks @Cory Harpell

    So perhaps only Cura for Robo currently works for slicing projects for C2.

    I'd tried Cura (non Robo specific version) to slice previously and had the problem. Moved to CraftWare because it looked very configurable but the problem continued.

    I can get access to a Windows PC so I'll try Cura for Robo and see if I have better luck.
     
  14. Cory Harpell

    Cory Harpell Member

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    Im working on a profile for the non-robo version of cura... I will post it later tonight after the baby goes to bed!
     
  15. PXLGEAR

    PXLGEAR New Member

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    Hello, my z-offset is between 5.0 and 5.2 when i run the wizard those times when it wasnt working,the prints im currently running where sliced on cura for robo so far so good.yes i just saw optical sensors and the beds come preinstalled with the black tape.so its very possible that the test prints i tried had different z offset settings. i honestly baffled, but im sure its a software issue and not a mechanical issue since im printing fine so far.will post pics and vid clips soon , the first print was 15hrs long with cura for robo now im running a 4hr print with cura for robo as well.i will try simplify 3d after that see if i affects anything.
     
  16. ROBOLabs

    ROBOLabs Moderator

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    Hi Sam Mayo,

    I work at ROBO HQ, and do some of the testing and print profile configurations on the C2. Customer support advised me of your support ticket, and I recommended we schedule a Skype chat so that I can take a look at some key components on your printer to rule out mechanical issues. In the meantime, you can perform a few quick checks:
    • Check to make sure the 6mm rods are firmly clipped into the black bushing housings, particularly the front one on the Y-axis.
    • Check that the flange bearings on the 8mm rods (the ones that run front to back, which move the X-axis) have not popped out of the inner chassis; the flanges should sit flush with the inner wall of the chassis.
    • Take the bed off and press on all of the magnets to see if they "click" into place. Some of the magnets on C2 beds didn't get enough glue, so they move ever so slightly any time you take the bed off, which could result in a "dynamic" Z-offset. You can mitigate this by gluing the magnets firmly into place, and resetting the Z-offset through the Z-offset wizard. While you have the bed off, inspect that the acorn nuts and the screws used to fasten them are firmly pressed to the aluminum bed platform on both sides.
    If everything checks out and you still experience the same issues, ping me here and we'll try to schedule a Skype chat ASAP to address the problem.
     
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  17. ammulder

    ammulder Member

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    I'm also having leveling issues.

    When I print a 2"x2" piece in the center of the bed, it works fine (z offset -5.4).

    When I print four 2"x2" pieces, the two in the back of the bed have a first layer where the head is slightly too high (there are a few spots where perhaps 3/8" of filament doesn't stick to the bed). For the piece on the front-left the head is slightly too low on the left side (mashed filament) and slightly too high on the right side (loose filament). The piece on the front-right never stuck to the bed at all -- partway through the first layer it ripped off.

    I thought the whole point of the 9-location auto-leveling was to compensate for problems like this, but it doesn't seem to be working. IMG_9604.JPG
    See the loose strands on the top two, and the lines there came out single-width where on the other pieces they're double-width. You can see the difference from left to right on the bottom left piece, and the problem with the bottom-right piece is pretty obvious.

    I guess I'll try fussing with the heights of the nuts under the magnets under the bed later, but I really thought the auto-leveling was supposed to avoid all this.
     
  18. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Without access to a C2/R2 this is my guess.

    You will need to pretty much manually level the bed to the nozzle as much as possible. I believe the C2 firmware is based on Marlin firmware version 1.1.0-RC6 and only has a planar autolevel. Planar autolevel is not smart enough to level in two directions at the same time and really can only level a slope in the bed. Planar leveling reads all your probe points and then tries to apply a 'best fit' plane to the measurements it probed. Marlin firmware version 1.1.0 is up to RC8 now and that introduced bilinear autolevel, which can level a bed that is warped or unlevel beyond a single slope. As far as I know there is no new version of the Robo C2 firmware that is based on RC8 or newer.
     
    #18 WheresWaldo, Feb 4, 2017
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2017
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  19. ammulder

    ammulder Member

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    OK, that sounds like a likely explanation.

    Generally speaking, what's the best way to level the bed? Fiddling with the nuts that the magnets rest on? Trying to adjust the magnets themselves? Putting paper between magnets and nuts?

    When I took the bed off, one of the magnets immediately popped out, while the others seemed secure. The one that came off corresponded to the lowest corner of the bed (front right). So I will first test putting something between the bed and that magnet before I pop the magnet back in. I suppose if I can manage to level that with respect to the front left corner, then maybe the bed will just have a planar level issue from front to back, which hopefully the present autolevel algorithm could handle?
     
  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I sadly have no experience with the mechanics of those models, but I suspect is different enough not to even offer an idea.
     

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