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Unanswered Autoleveling using cura

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by cybershipley, May 26, 2016.

  1. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    In the startup GCode block:

    G28; home all axes
    M565 Z-.85;define z offset (default 1.0mm)
    G29 ; probe the bed

    everything after the ";" is ignored so put whatever you want here. The actual command in this example is

    M565 Z-.85

    Which is using an -0.85 offset. More negative is further from the bed so this is closer to the bed than the default -1.0 would be
     
  2. Will . I . Am

    Will . I . Am Member

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    @mark tomlinson ok now its much better understood. Which is better when printing? closer or a bit further away? Also how would you know? I have never really ran onto an issue yet with offsets that I know off so i would assume that the printer head would glob up or scope the filament off the platform due to it being too close? Also on that an old trick for non pre configured printers was to slide a piece of paper till it just barely grabs it as you slide it back and forth to confirm it was at the right offset corect?
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Whatever makes your first layer look like this example is best:

    https://printedsolid.com/blogs/news/37035715-get-your-prints-to-stick-check-your-skirt

    The paper test is only meant to get you close -- the actual offset that works best for YOUR printer is custom to your hardware. I have 4 FDM machines that each have different offsets (not all of them use Marlin firmware so that makes a slight difference, but even the ones using Marlin are all different).

    I bet @Geof has even more variations across his fleet.
     
  4. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @Will . I . Am The M565 line is an example of a poorly written comment. There is no default value, If M565 is not there then the value is null or Zero. The point of that comment was that by default people use -1.0 mm not that the default is -1.0 mm. @mark tomlinson has put you on the correct path to using it.
     
  5. Will . I . Am

    Will . I . Am Member

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    So I started using the coding provided by WheresWaldo and it worked out nice! However now I'm running into the tops of my calibration cube tests the tops layers are not coming out 100% right. Print #4 was at 2 shells and 4 top layers and 4 bottom layers. Print #5 was 2 shells with 5 top and 5 bottom layers but I'm still having that incomplete look/ holes in the top still even after adding more layers. Any ideas? The offset seems to be working good but what else would cause the holes in and Tobin layers on the top? Usually adding more top/BTM layers helps avoid that.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
    #25 Will . I . Am, Apr 16, 2017
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2017
  6. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Pictures?

    But if I was to hazard a guess: As you infill percentage decreases the number of top layers need to increase.
     
    mark tomlinson likes this.
  7. Will . I . Am

    Will . I . Am Member

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    @WheresWaldo printed at these settings as well for reference for the picture above


    Screen Shot 2017-04-16 at 12.30.18 PM.png
    Screen Shot 2017-04-16 at 12.30.52 PM.png Screen Shot 2017-04-16 at 12.31.04 PM.png
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    @WheresWaldo nailed it

    Do the math :)

    At a 0.2mm layer height, 5 layers is barely 1mm and at 0.1 layer height a lot less.
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Being too hot can help confuse the issue as well so make sure you are printing in the "zone" temperature wise
     
  10. Will . I . Am

    Will . I . Am Member

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    @mark tomlinson
    I used to print at 210 but switched to 200 and it seems to work nicely for now. However the bed temp I feel 50 is still pretty hot for PLA. Any suggestions? And going into the top so at 0.2mm layer height how did you get the 5 layers being barely 1mm? how many layers are in one mm then? where can you find info to do math like that? Sorry so many question!! But every bit helps and I'm getting closer to great prints!!

    PS: in my old software in layers you put them in mm and i always did a min of 2mm thick sometimes 3 or 4 as well in MM
     
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    0.2 mm (the height of each layer)
    x 5 (the number of layers)
    ------
    1mm

    So if you have 5 top/bottom layers and each is 0.2mm there you go :)

    How many layers in a mm depends on what layer height you are printing at...
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The layer height is the vertical resoultion and the layer width (effectively nozzle diameter) is the horizontal resolution
     
  13. Will . I . Am

    Will . I . Am Member

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    So in other words unlike my old program where you just put how many mm in layers you wanted CURA makes you have to do a little more math then. So now I kinda understand how to do it on a 0.2 scale, now if i went to 0.1 would it be 0.1x (5layers)=.5mm?
     
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  15. Will . I . Am

    Will . I . Am Member

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    Thank you so much!!!! Ill try and re print my cube now with this new info and report back!!

    @mark tomlinson you the man!!!
     
  16. Will . I . Am

    Will . I . Am Member

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    @mark tomlinson so I didn't change anything else but now all the sudden when i try printing it at 15 top/btm layers the print starts to fail every time now with the bottom left corner not sticking to the plate properly but also because of that I'm guessing it also globs up and catches all the filament and starts to drag it all. I let it keep going and it sorted itself out but that left bottom corner is obviously failed still. I recently put an oiler on top (literally last night) because my feeder wasn't doing anything and seemed to only pass filament through once i put a dab of olive oil on it (the only oil i have). Perhaps the oiler is the issue here? but its strange because test cubes 5-6 were damm near perfect besides the top/btm layer issues (only stated having issue after I set it to 15 top/btm layers).

    Also added photo of my skirt


    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
    #36 Will . I . Am, Apr 16, 2017
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2017
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    So what type of filament? What bed temp? What extrusion temp?
    I tried jumping back to the top of the thread, but you hijacked this one* rather than starting a new one so that is useless.

    Best reason to start your own threads--all your information is there.

    With PLA that looks way too hot extrusion temperature



    *which is mostly now NOT about autoleveling in Cura :)
     
  18. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    With PLA or ABS (but not all nylons -- different issues there) when you get warp and/or curl of layers it is always a temperature management issue. You want to print as cool as you can because less heat -> less heat to manage. You want the filament hot enough to flow correctly but not hotter. You want the bed hot enough to aid adhesion, but not hotter*



    *When printing ABS it sometimes helps to print with an overly hot bed as it then brings the ambient temperature up enough to help the ABS not warp as badly -- ABS really needs a heated chamber to do perfectly.
     
  19. Will . I . Am

    Will . I . Am Member

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    I print at 200 and 50 bed for PLA. Im going to try 195 and 40 now and see how it prints
     
  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Bed is probably good at anything around that ballpark for PLA.
    200 may be too hot, that is why they have the temperature tester models on thingiverse :)
    Your exact best print temperatures will not match mine other than by pure luck.

    None of my Robo units print PLA anywhere near 200 (195 is the highest one) but our delta runs 200-205 routinely for PLA.

    This is another reason the rather high MIN TEMP they had specified in one version of the firmware (190c) was not a good choice. Our volcano equipped E3D prints PLA at 175c all day long
     

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