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Base layout or drawing

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by Nathanfish, Jan 7, 2016.

  1. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    Hey guys, I have a heavier aluminum bed and I'm having issues keeping it level. i'm thinking about upgrading the base that the Y axis bearings bolt to and making it out of aluminum. Are there any drawings available for this? I realize it just bolts to the plastic frame of the machine so i will probably have to modify other things to stiffen it up but i think this may be a good starting point. Any suggestions? A drawing would be awesome. Or an entire aluminum frame would be awesome.
     
  2. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    You mean this one: Robo R1 Middle Plate.png

    If the cost isn't too high and it's cheaper for you to make two, I might be interested in buying one from you.
     

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  3. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    That's the one. I can't get Catia to open that step file. any ideas? I have a guy at work that has a mill at his house i'm going to just get an estimate from him. I'll let you know once i figure that file out.
     
  4. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    I can export it as SAT and SMT also, I will zip them up and upload here.
     
  5. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Here you go. I would imagine 0.250" material would be sufficiently stiff and about the same thickness as the original.

    Original plate is 0.5" thick. Probably because it is plastic.
     

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  6. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    ok got it to work. I'm going to look at my printer and see if i can modify it at all to make it wider than 5" or if there are any other modifications that make sense to do. It would be nice to run a Y axis similar to what the Lulzbot Taz 5 has and have stationary Y rods that are supported on both ends. I wonder if it would be worth it to step up to 10mm rods.. I haven't read much on Y axis upgrades but I definitely need to figure something out.

    Actually might as well go 12mm Rods if i do this...

    Ok i talked to my guy and he said $125-$150 if i supply the material. Seems kinda high i may just do it on a day off.
     
    #6 Nathanfish, Jan 7, 2016
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2016
  7. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Yeah, that is high, I could do it myself with a tablesaw and drill press for a lot less, I might just try it out myself.
     
  8. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    Yeah i wish we had a waterjet. Maybe i'll order everything for 10mm or 12mm Y rails and do Z axis lead screws all at once. hmm

    Any idea on the difference between a mcmaster-Carr 10mm $45ea linear bearing and an amazon 4 pack for $31 total? Worth it to get the expensive ones? I know that's a pretty vague question.
     
  9. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    In my experience McMaster is very high on everything. I use them in dire straits at work but get much better pricing through fastenal. I'm having them give me a quote on the bearings :) I'll post what they say
     
  10. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    As far as the plate goes I'll ask my buddy at the local machine shop, they have scrap drops close to that size, I'll ask the what they think
     
  11. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    So now that i'm getting around to looking at my machines i don't see any reason why i couldn't add 5 inches to both sides of the plate to extend it all the way to the front and back of the machine. I think extending it out would help a lot to stabilize it. I'll modify that model when i get a free chance at work and post it if anyone else wants to try it. If only i had a waterjet at work to cut 1/2 aluminum. I might see about getting 1/4" steel and having it lasered out, i think that would be plenty strong enough compared to the plastic that is already there.

    On another note i think i'm going to order 10mm hardened rods from Mcmaster-carr and order the linear bearings and mounts from amazon. Pretty sure 10mm will be a good and easy enough upgrade to make while i'm doing this. I will just grind down the last 1/2" to 8mm so i can use the stock bed mounts.

    Any other ideas or suggestions let me know! Going to order the bearings and rods now.
     
  12. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    If you guys are still interested in that aluminum plate, my local machine shop seems to think if we did 10 it would be under 200.00. They use water jet so the more made the cheaper. Obviously that's the "estimate"
     
  13. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    200 each? I'll probably build my own because i think i'll have to modify it to fit the new linear bearings i want to install. I should have time monday to modify that model to make it larger if you want to get a quote on that too.
     
  14. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    In sory no not 200 each, he thought ballpark of 20 each in a quantity of 10 or more
     
  15. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    Oh cool. If that's the case I would probably be down for 2. I need to get these new bearings in and see how different the mounting holes need to be. Maybe we could just modify it to fit new bearing mounts as well. If you're going to replace the plastic plate you might as well replace the plastic bearing mounts along with it.
     
  16. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @Geof I would be interested in one of you could get it to 20 or more.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
     
  17. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    This is what i'm thinking about building.
     

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  18. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @Nathanfish Why not just build a second printer without all the limitations of the Mendel design? It looks like you would really benefit from something that is more in line with Ultimaker's design. There are quite a few open source designs out there that are based on derivations of Ultimaker.
     
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  19. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    Good advice. That's what i had planned on trying to do eventually. Right now my plan is to keep one printer close to stock and reliable, upgrade one to be able to do at least 14x9, and then eventually build one that can go bigger. I'm still doing research, i'll have to look more into the ultimaker design. Right now it just seemed easiest to upgrade the one printer and learn as i go.

    Are there parts lists and frame designs available for the ultimaker design printers? I haven't really ran across a full build of one. I was looking awhile back for a frame i could have flat sheet lasered out but nothing really stood out to me.
     
  20. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    If you want big, look at this community and printer. https://plus.google.com/communities/108524206628971601859

    I was going to build a HercuLien but when I started to actually look at drawings and pictures, I realized I just had no place to put something that big, so I settled on Eric Lien's Eustathios Spider 2, It has about a 14 inch cubed actual build space. I am still waiting for the last few pieces. I built this up ordering small amounts month by month from proceeds of my Shapeways store, so the wife wouldn't be miffed. Got sidetracked with a few necessary replacement parts for the Robo, now I need a new monitor to replace my aging dual monitor Dell 2408 setup. Eric is very responsive about answering questions on the design and there are full GitHub repositories for each one. There are a lot of talented people who have modified some of the parts and the community is continuing to grow.

    Most of these big printers use 2020 Aluminum extrusions or larger, Ultimaker, BigBox, Makerbot, Flashforge, Wanhoo all seem to want to use the outer shell as the frame.
     

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