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Answered Bed upgrade sooner than expected

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by WZ9V, May 1, 2016.

  1. WZ9V

    WZ9V Active Member

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    Had a spool drop and hit the bed cracking off the corner. Ironically while printing a spool holder designed to prevent that particular problem.

    Any suggestions on how to remove the rods from the linear bearings so that I can put them on the new longer rods?
     
    #1 WZ9V, May 1, 2016
  2. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    My preferred way is to remove the bed by disconnecting the bed heater from the ramps, remove the glass bed all together. Loosen the back belt tensioner all the way. This allows you to remove the smooth rods (it's a pain).

    The other thing you can do is remove the bed per above, hold the nuts on the bottom side (under the bottom cover) remove the bolts, take off both tensioners so the belt is off lift off the smoothed assembly and work on it off the robo on the bench

    :)
     
    #2 Geof, May 1, 2016
  3. WZ9V

    WZ9V Active Member

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    Thanks, I already removed the old glass. I was thinking about your second method for the y axis rails. I figure as long as it's broke it's time to do all the other upgrades also.
     
    #3 WZ9V, May 1, 2016
  4. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Your smarter than I am lol. I tear apart fix/upgrade that part back to printing. Repeat lol. So much wasted time haha. And to be honest I'd probably do it that way again on the next beastie lol
     
    #4 Geof, May 1, 2016
  5. WZ9V

    WZ9V Active Member

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    What sucks is I have no printer to print anything I need until I get it going again.
     
    #5 WZ9V, May 1, 2016
  6. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Do you know what you need?
     
    #6 Geof, May 1, 2016
  7. WZ9V

    WZ9V Active Member

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    Not yet. The only parts I know for sure are the bed holders and I ordered them from 3DHubs. I have a silcone heater on order 240mm X 350mm 360W 110VAC, one of those neoceram glass plates, and a DC/AC SSR for the new bed. I already had the RPi 3, 5V 3A supply, and SainSmart 2 relay board.

    I plan to use one relay to switch the 12V supply on/off and the other to switch LEDS on/off. The 5V supply for the RPi will be always on when plugged in.
     
    #7 WZ9V, May 1, 2016
  8. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    If you need other printed parts shoot me a pm I'll work them in. The other option is get a piece of glass cut or aluminum clip it on top of your bed and see what happens. Might work long enough to get you going again. Just be very aware while its printing. That's not a great way of doing it and probably not safe lol
     
    #8 Geof, May 1, 2016
    mark tomlinson likes this.
  9. WZ9V

    WZ9V Active Member

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    Thanks, if my parts take a long time I may end up looking for alternatives.
     
    #9 WZ9V, May 1, 2016
  10. WZ9V

    WZ9V Active Member

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    BTW thanks for the offer Geof. I wish I had thought to ask here first before going the 3D hubs. The long pole is going to be the heater I'm sourcing from China. In theory I should be able to still print PLA without a heater but its so much easier to cheat and use 50C and a layer of hairspray on the bed ;-)
     
    #10 WZ9V, May 2, 2016
  11. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Not a problem were all here to help out. Hell i have 2 sets of those bed rails in petg in my spare parts box lol
     
    #11 Geof, May 2, 2016

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