Broken wire, how to fix?

I found a broken wire on my extruder connection harness.

How would I be able to fix this?

As you can see the wire is very thin. It's broken right at the connector part. I tried to push out the pin from the plastic housing. Is this possible? It ain't budging.

I was thinking of bypassing it making a straight connect from that broken wire into the rest of the harness. But if you know of any way to fix this possibly pushing out that pin, I would be able to fix it using proper soldering and the connector itself.

Notice the thermistor harmed is very frayed. It as a result of the back and forth motion and the plastic tie that held it, was cutting into it. I think tape would have been a better option. At least it wouldn't have cause the issue.


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Usually those molex connectors require an extraction tool for removing pins.

I think bypassing it would be easiest.

 

Thanks, I have done so bypassing it, I then used tape instead of the twist tie to secure the wires close to the extruder frame. The twist tie has pretty sharp corners and it seems to have ate its way thru the wire.





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For anyone who's had a problem with the print slowing down to a crawl, it seems to have been due to the above wire being broken. It's got like really thing wires and not much of them. If it's totally broken it will prevent your extruder from moving up or down. If it's failing, it moves the extruder painfully slow. Why such a thin wire for such a big job?


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The tape will unravel with time. I'd grab some heat shrink tubing to replace it when it does. Thanks for this and all your info sharing. You and Mike Kelly have been a lot of help to me.

 

I received my kapton heater, new thermistors and a 5/16th threaded rod replacement due to my original one did not lift the nut further up than 100 mm on the rod on one side. This will really help since I am planing on doing se larger prints and was always getting poor result with one side not lift properly.

Any advise on attaching the kapton heater?

Also, when replacing the thermistor, does matter which end connects?

When replacing the threaded rod, does any know the layout of the screws or set screws to unscrew or can I just unscrew one to remove?

I have the original PLA ABS model. No auto level.


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I just kinda aligned the heater with the markings on my build plate. You could use a ruler if that helps you.

No it's a resistors, polarity doesn't matter

You'll need to remove the top one or 2 set screws depending on your design