1. Got a question or need help troubleshooting? Post to the troubleshooting forum or Search the forums!

Solved Can't get filment to stick

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Skivholme, Jan 2, 2015.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. Skivholme

    Skivholme New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2014
    Messages:
    13
    Likes Received:
    2
    Hi,

    Printer: Robo 3D printer R1 with heated bed.
    Filment: ABS
    Extruder temperature: 215
    Bed temperature: 80
    Bed makeup: Hairspray or gluestick

    I can't get the filment to stick to the bed, it lifts up from the bed every time(see image).

    I have tried 2 different types of (long lasting) hairspray, and gluestick.
    I have tried setting my bed temperature to 100, but it won't go any higher than 83.
    I have tried to turn off the heat in the bed after printing the first few layers.


    IMG_1037.JPG

    Any help is appreciated!

    Happy new year :)
     
  2. k1e1v1i1n

    k1e1v1i1n Active Member

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2014
    Messages:
    230
    Likes Received:
    73
    I think there is something that can be done to the firmware that will let you go higher I am sure someone knows what to do. how long have you been trying ABS? I have some but I am waiting to have a good feel for PLA before I give that a try.
     
  3. Skivholme

    Skivholme New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2014
    Messages:
    13
    Likes Received:
    2
    I just got my printer a few days ago, first i tried half a dozon prints with PLA, with same result as now, and today i switched to ABS after i read that ABS should be easier to use, but after a bunch of tries i still cant get it to stick.
     
  4. k1e1v1i1n

    k1e1v1i1n Active Member

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2014
    Messages:
    230
    Likes Received:
    73
    My bed is at 75c and as long as i use glue just about every print sticks. I run into problems when the base is huge then it can start peeling up. everything I have read said I should figure out PLA before I try ABS as there are more things to go wrong with ABS.

    Maybe I will give ABS a try tonight I have run through almost a full roll of PLA in the last few days.
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,915
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    Nope, from a printing perspective it is more complicated. PLA is easier to learn the printer with.
    To get the bed to go higher you will need to modify the firmware.

    You should be able to get to 100 or 110 (slowly, but it should get there). THey have a limit coded in the firmware for the newer ones (84 or close to it).

    See the hairspray thread for the specific brands/chemicals that work.. it is not just any hairspray, a specific chemistry is needed.
    The easiest to learn might be the blue painters tape and glue-stick combo, but I prefer using the glass bed myself.
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,915
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    If you DO want to stick with ABS, I suggest investing in some >wolfbite<
     
  7. Tanbam

    Tanbam Member

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2014
    Messages:
    84
    Likes Received:
    28
    I've had great results getting ABS to stick to the bed. I was having some trouble at first with skinny, pointed parts, but after fiddling with the skirt settings I've had good luck.

    I extrude at 235 and have the bed set to 80. I clean my glass, then spray on some Suave Max Hold hairspray on the bed when it's warm.

    I use MatterSlice in MatterControl and set the Skirt Loops to 5 and the distance from the object to 0. I also make sure that the first layer is "squished" down to the bed so that the skirt loops are touching each other and do not separate when the print is pulled off. In my Printer -> General settings I have my Z offset set to 0.74, but that number seems to depend on the individual printer/extruder and maybe even the filament. You will have to print a few first layers in order to find the right setting for you. If the number is too large, the skirt will be individual strands, and if it's too low, the filament won't come out. There's a sweet spot that will make it nearly perfect.

    I also make sure that I have my fan set to be off during the first 2 layers.

    With this setup, I haven't had a single ABS lift.
     
  8. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2013
    Messages:
    6,967
    Likes Received:
    2,277
    ABS Slurry helps with low bed temp ABS prints.
     
  9. Skivholme

    Skivholme New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2014
    Messages:
    13
    Likes Received:
    2
    My skirt loops were individual strands. After adjusting the Z index i can get the skirt loops to be connected in one side, but in the other side they are still individual strands.

    I changed my Start G-Code to have M109 in the top, to get my printer to auto level before each print. but the result are the same.
    any suggestions to get the skirts to be even height all way around ?
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,915
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    Perfect example of a non-level bed.
    I am not sure how you get the 9-point auto-level to run, but you need to either get that to work or manually level the bed.
    Not an R1 user myself, I always have to manually level the bed. Fortunately it is not something you need to re-do much :)
     
  11. Tanbam

    Tanbam Member

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2014
    Messages:
    84
    Likes Received:
    28
    You might need to manually level your Z-axis a little better to get it right. If it's too far off, the auto level might not be as good as it should be.

    There may be better ways to level the bed, but this is how I did it:

    1. Move the extruder all the way to the left and put a piece of paper underneath it.
    2. Step the Z-axis down towards the bed until it almost touches the paper. I use 1mm steps when it gets close.
    3. When it touches the paper, I move up two 1mm steps, then back down one so it is just above the paper.
    4. Slowly turn the left Z-axis threaded rod by hand until the nozzle is touching the paper enough to cause resistance to sliding without holding it in place.
    5. Once this is is done, move the extruder about 50mm to the right and manually adjust the right Z-axis rod so that it's the same resistance on the paper.
    6. Repeat the 50mm steps until you get to the right edge of the bed.
    7. Go back to the left side and make any adjustments necessary to the left rod in case it needs it. It might take a few iterations to get the distance tuned in.
    It doesn't have to be perfect, because the auto leveling works pretty well as long as the Z level isn't too far off.
     
  12. Skivholme

    Skivholme New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2014
    Messages:
    13
    Likes Received:
    2
    Yay, finally got it to work!

    I disabled "Auomatic print leveling" in MatterControl, the G29, option in the start gcode does that for me.
    I changed my start gcode to have M109 at top, for some reason the printer would not auto level at the standard settings.
    I added 5 skirt loops with zero distance to the object.
    I disabled the fan for the first 2 layers.
    I changed the first layer height from 0.3 to 0.2.
    I played around with the Z-offset to get it just right, i have to change it almost ever time i turn on the printer to somewhere between 0.75 and 0.82.
    I found a hair spray containing both "VA/Crotonates/Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer" and "Acrylates Copolymer"

    And now i can print so sticky, i almost can't remove the print from the bed.

    Thank you very mutch for all the help :)
     
    2 people like this.
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.

Share This Page