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Solved Clogged hot end

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Bd182, Mar 1, 2019.

  1. Bd182

    Bd182 Member

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    After two hours of running I realized no PLA was coming out. I have removed the hot end according to the instructions. But even at 240° the filament seems to be really stuck. So as not to make things worse, what do I do next?

    HotEnd600.jpg
     
  2. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Remove the wires, find a torch and heat the whole hotend up until you literally melt all the PLA out and off the hotend. Replace the wiring and put it all back together. When it is stuck that well then it is likely at one point you suffered from 'heat creep' and the filament melted and expanded further up the hotend beyond the normal 'hot zone'.
     
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  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    @WheresWaldo has it covered. Heat creep is the technical term for what likely got you.
    The filament is melted all the way back to above the heatbreak (thin tube that connects the heater block and finned section).
    Make certain your fan ON the hotend itself is running full speed (the one normally connected to the finned section of the hotend in your picture). Otherwise you will continue to get this :)

    It is a feature of the more compact all-metal hotends. They must have cooling aids to prevent this.
     
  4. Bd182

    Bd182 Member

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    When you say "remove the wires", you must mean unplug the cables. But the wires will still be attached to the heater and the thermistor, right?

    I wonder if this happened because my nozzle is running too close to the bed, and the filament has trouble getting out.

    The tiny little fan on the side of the heater always runs, but it's not very big, and it doesn't move much air.
     
  5. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    I actually mean, remove the heater cartridge and remove the thermistor. But common sense should tell you that since you are applying an open flame. Plus all this was a lot to type out before coffee.:D
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    as long as it looks to be running full speed it is fine. The older style j-head hotends did not not need fans, but the smaller all-metal ones do
     
  7. Bd182

    Bd182 Member

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    Never underestimate how little a greenhorn knows, or how much "sense" may not be common. ;-)

    Since I don't want to do MORE damage, I'm going really slowly. I assume I can remove the heater by loosening the 1/16" hex screw, but should not try this when it's cold. I loosened the screw and heated the fins with a hot air gun. It will twist now, but does not easily pull off. Do I just need to heat it up good and pull hard enough to separate the heater from the cooling fins?

    HotEnd-2-600.jpg
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The red wires go to the heater core and if you have removed the allen screw on the bottom of the heater block (where the heater core is plugged in) then you should be able to encourage the heater core to come out.

    Be careful not to break the red wires off of the heater core or you are swapping that too.
     
  9. Bd182

    Bd182 Member

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    Should I first remove the thermistor capsule and heater block from the hot end, before I try to separate the hot end from the cooling fins?
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Probably easier that way.
     
  11. Bd182

    Bd182 Member

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    After much careful fiddling and finagling I have disassembled the entire hot end. One thing that was not clear is that the cooling fins UNSCREW from the heater block. The setscrew tricked me into thinking it was a slip fit. And, evidently, this screwed connection was jammed up against the nozzle, preventing it from unscrewing. Once the heater block unscrewed a little, the nozzle came loose.

    With heat and MEK I have cleaned all the PLA from the nozzle and cooling fins (still don't know the correct term).

    But I have another question before I assemble this again. At the top of my cooling fins there is some brown sealer. I thought this was melted PLA, but now I'm thinking it's some kind of high temperature RTV gasket material. Does this need to be removed and reapplied to reinstall the hot end? It seems likely that this old material will prevent a proper seal if I try to insert it as-is.

    HotEnd-4-600.jpg
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    A word of advice -- that is correct and that is the SEAL that keeps filament from oozing. The nozzle seals to the heatbreak tube ... nothing seals to the heater block :)
     
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Ignore it, there is no "seal" at the top.
     
  14. Bd182

    Bd182 Member

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    What about the old sealer on top of the cool end?
     
  15. Bd182

    Bd182 Member

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    So, no need to scrape off the old stuff?
     
  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Not unless it bothers you at an existential level :)
     
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    There is no real seal at the cold end... it is still solid filament :) In fact if it is NOT solid filament all the way down to the heater block you will have lots of other issues (clogs).
     
  18. Bd182

    Bd182 Member

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    Actually, the sealer on top of the cold end had to be scraped off. Left in place, the module could not be inserted high enough to close the latch. For future reference......
     
  19. Bd182

    Bd182 Member

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    I got everything back together. Before I test the heater, I want to adjust the bed. I'm pretty sure my clog was caused by scraping the bed with a nozzle set too low. When I can get the Z axis to go home, the nozzle is touching the bed. I can manually turn the lead screws to raise the head, but it resets on the next home command. I looked up an old thread about this, and Mark said:

    They have screws that hold them clamped to the nuts so .. loosen those and make sure the nut is seated into the X carriage fully (all the way) then slide the switch up so that with the nozzle off of the bed the switch is pressed up tp the carriage and closed. Retighten the screws that hold the switch to the nut.

    I see two screws that hold the limit switches in place, but loosening them does not seem to allow me to adjust the position of the switch. Are these the screws you were talking about?

    Also, MatterControl 2.0 mostly doesn't respond to a request to home the Z axis. It only works sometimes.

    Everything is a struggle.....

    LimitSwitch400.jpg
     
  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The plastic mount that the switch is attached too that itself mounts to the nut on the threaded rod.
    That is the adjustable part.

    There is an autoleveling video (R1, but still same on R1+) that may help you sort that out.

     

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