Colorfab PLA Jamming

Hotter printing does not help? If you go for 190 or 195 you still get jams?
Granted hotter might get a little more stringy...
They layers you do have down look pretty good.

 

I have not tried the Colorfab PLA, regulkar PLA is a non-issue for me at 195.

I know the Colorfabb XT wants to print hot-n-slow (but looks damn fine when done that way) it is best at 240-ish.

For sure if the label suggest hotter, go hotter

 

That filament is on a clear spool, right? You can probably turn temp up 15 degrees or more, especially if you have a hexagon or E3D.

colorFabb actually changed the PLA used in the PLA/PHA at the beginning of the year. This was at the same time as they made the switch over to the clear spools. The original formula was great stuff as long as you got temp dialed in perfectly. This generally mean printing about 10 degrees over lowest temp you could print at. Too hot and you would tend to be stringy. Too cold and it would underextrude.

With the new formulation, it is a lot less sensitive to temperature, but does tend to run a little warmer. The labeled temps are also a little smarter than they used to be. colorFabb now has a whole fleet of different printers that they try out filaments on. Historically, it was primarily an Ultimaker.

 

You might want to do a little calibrating at the warmer temp and play around with retraction settings a little, primarily increasing retraction speed should help.

Here is some info from the RepRap Triffid Hunter's Calibration Guide, which is very highly regarded:
Nozzle Temperature
Each type of plastic, and each colourant for each type of plastic alters the ideal printing temperature. E.g., I can print opaque PLA at 165°C with fantastic results, but my translucent PLA prefers 180°C!

Every machine will have different numbers due to differences in thermistor, and how close to barrel temperature your thermistor is actually sensing.

Here's how I find my optimum temperature for each roll of filament that I have:

1. Choose a fairly simple model that's large enough that you can clearly see the infill while it's printing
2. Make sure your hobbed bolt's teeth are clean of debris such as chunks of plastic
3. Make sure your idler is tight! really tight! "it hurts my fingers to pull on it and I still can't move it" tight! A too-loose idler gives exactly the same symptoms as too low temperature.
4. Start printing
5. Lower temperature by 5° every 2-3 layers
6. When infill starts being a row of dots instead of a line, increase temperature by 10°.
7. Keep monitoring print, increase by 5° if your infill goes dotty again If you find that your prints are weak along the layer lines or even delaminate mid-print, you may need to go higher again. With ABS, wrapping your printer in a towel helps a LOT by keeping out draughts and breezes- but beware any PLA parts caught within!
8. Store or remember that temperature for that type of filament

 

one other thing, check to make sure you don't have a build up of plastic on your nozzle tip and that you are not overextruding (which will end up with a build up on your nozzle tip). This will also cause angel hairs all around the part, albeit extremely easy to remove hairs.

 

Me too. This is a great description of the process.

 

Not at all if the temp is too cool when being printed the extruder has too hard of a time extruding it but as the temp raises the filament becomes more molten and easier to extrude so hotter will be easier to a point.

The hotter you print at the more oozing and retraction become more of an issue so it becomes a delicate balance of the right temp and the right settings

 

With NinjaFlex you have to set the movement speeds really slow (it extrudes slowly).
You can try going higher, but if speed is the issue that won't help (so you may need to play with both, like I said NinjaFlex is wierd).

 

Time/speed and temp are very closely related. You typically need to increase temp with speed. So, the dots actually means you're going too fast for the temperature that you're at.