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Solved Determining Robo 3D R1 version for fan shroud and/or "nozzle sock"?

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by wickemu, Jun 19, 2017.

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  1. wickemu

    wickemu Member

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    I'm having an issue with my prints not being cooled quickly enough to set and my extruder cooling too quickly from the print fan. I'm therefore looking for the proper shroud to add as well as a "nozzle sock" which I've heard can insulate the nozzle from the fan and allow it to keep its heat.

    I received this R1 as a gift a couple years ago, however, so I'm not sure which version it is. I've attached a picture of my hot end if that helps, because I have no idea how to tell which one I have. Everything on the printer is stock, for now. Could someone help identify which R1 I have and direct me toward prints or purchases would help mitigate the above issues?
     

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    #1 wickemu, Jun 19, 2017
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Nope, no real help there.
    The photo you need is the one of the place the Z rods go through the bed down to the stepper.

    The hotend picture just proves it is not a beta (i.e. it is using a hexagon hotend not a j-head) but the difference in the R1 and R1+ is more subtle.
     
    #2 mark tomlinson, Jun 19, 2017
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The ducted fan may help, but as you are aware you need to get the right one :)
    It may also be that the heater core is simply going out on that hotend. The hexagon used a 30w core, I always tell people to switch to a 40w core (even on the E3D hotend which only has a 25w heater). You can get 12v 40watt cores on Amazon all day long cheap enough if that ends up being your issue.
     
    #3 mark tomlinson, Jun 19, 2017
  4. wickemu

    wickemu Member

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    Attached photo of the Z rod base.

    Considering that this printer has been used a dozen times at most, I'd be pretty surprised and annoyed if it were already going out. If you're right though, how complicated is it to make that switch? I'm ok with general stuff but don't have any experience with soldering and the like. If it's somewhat simple to do then it may be worthwhile regardless, but I'd still prefer to stick with stock as long as it suits my needs.
     

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    #4 wickemu, Jun 19, 2017
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    First that is an R1 (not a beta, not an R1+, R2, C2, etc)
    Secondly it is really not too hard to swap the heater core. You have a hexagon and I will ink an assembly video at the end showing how it is put together, you only care about the last little bit showing how the heater core is mounted into the heater block. You will buy a new 12v heater core and then remove the existing one and install the new one. Those big red wires in your first photo are the wires going TO the heater core. Trace them back to the board under the printer and that is where the new one will attach (polarity is not an issue).

    It takes more time to re-route the new wires that it does to make the switch. The wires are landed on a terminal strip on the RAMPS board that powers the heater and the heater core is held in place with a small allen set-screw on the hotend itself (if you remove the black soft boot on the hotend you should be able to see i). You will want to drop the hotend itself on the bed to make this easier. There is a video here that will help:

    http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/helpful-videos-novice-expert.7478/


    Look at the one on Clogs/Jams as it shows the hotend removal on a R1 (there are a couple of screws to remove and it will fall out).

    General Hexagon assembly here:


     
    #5 mark tomlinson, Jun 19, 2017
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Try the ducted fan first and see if that sorts it out and if not the heater core replacement is not as complex as it might seem :)
     
    #6 mark tomlinson, Jun 19, 2017
  7. wickemu

    wickemu Member

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    I'm happy to say that this has been resolved. Unexpectedly, a fan duct solved both problems: this shroud was easy to install with the stock fan and no rewiring, and by directing the air away from the nozzle and directly to the bed, my nozzle stays hot even with the fan at 100% and the prints are staying curl-free. I actually ordered upgraded heater cartridges (accidentally got the 24v one initially, waiting on the 12v one now) but am happy to know that it's not required for a successful print. That may change once I add a second fan though, which I've also bought the parts for.

    Thank you for your help!
     
    #7 wickemu, Jul 5, 2017
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