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Solved First Failed print...ABS Warping

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Vibroman, Jan 30, 2016.

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  1. sebrobin

    sebrobin Member

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    I have upgraded the bed with the kit provided by Robo3D so I should be able to do 115c with the original firmware ?

    Thanks again
     
    #21 sebrobin, May 3, 2016
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If you eliminated the connectors under the bed for the bed heater power then yes.
    I did one of those upgrades and I actually replaced the provided molex connectors with Anderson powerpoles and have no issues.
     
    #22 mark tomlinson, May 3, 2016
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I don't do ABS any longer, but recently did some polycarb and ran the bed at 115c
     
    #23 mark tomlinson, May 3, 2016
  4. sebrobin

    sebrobin Member

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    How easy is the polycarb to print ? Like PLA ? How is the finish ?
     
    #24 sebrobin, May 3, 2016
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It is not as easy as PLA, but not as hard as ABS :)
    It is a hotter print material:

    http://reprap.org/wiki/Polycarbonate

    I went with 265 and a max speed of 3000 mm/min (a bit under 60mm/sec)
    I kept the bed at 115.

    Like all temperature a speed settings these are pretty much printer/environment specific. A good place to start, but you will likely need to tune in from there.
     
    #25 mark tomlinson, May 3, 2016
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If you want something decent that prints more like PLA then Alloy 910 is a winner.
     
    #26 mark tomlinson, May 3, 2016
  7. sebrobin

    sebrobin Member

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    I think my main issue is the bed level not perfectly flat.
    I will implement the auto bed leveling and I think it will improve the print process.
    I only found the tutorial with the opto coupler, I am looking for something easyer to build (a simple contactor would be more easy than the opto coupler).
     
    #27 sebrobin, May 9, 2016
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The normal R1 autoleveling is cheap and easy to add to a Beta unit.
    Takes one extra switch, two switch mounts you need to print and then a minor rewiring job on the Z limit switch (so that is now two limit switches in different spots).

    Load and use the autoleveling firmware.
     
    #28 mark tomlinson, May 9, 2016
    Geof likes this.
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