Fixing stringing for better prints

IF THIS IS SIMILAR OR TAKING THUNDER FROM ANYONE'S WORK PLEASE TELL ME AND I CAN TAKE DOWN THIS THREAD

hi, im going to try do a real thread where i am putting out help. i am going to try fix the awefull stringing issue i have by printing many of these:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:66175

each print i will change only one setting until the stringing has stopped or is at its minimal. the reason i am doing this is because stringing blobs and all are ruining my prints and i know others have this issue too. i will be updating this thread wit pictures and what setting i changed to achieve my results.

 

ok, here is the first print. it has some stringing

IGNORE the area where it is warped or holow. this is due to cheap filament thats diameter fluctuates too small or big. im buying new filament soon

 

here is one with 5 degrees less on first layer and other layers. i also decreased the speed on travel a small amount becuase it was way to fast traveling from one area to another.


the strininging looks less

 

the layers look worse on the one above but it may have been due to the filament so i tried to lower the temp by 5 again.

it did not go well...

 

ok, i increased the temp back to the original and increased retraction by 1. i kept the travel speed down.

it looks better, it seemed like the stringing decreased but i still need to work on it. i turned on wipe on this too so it may have worked.

 

Yes!!! Instructions with Pictures!... I joke. Just gonna have to do this again when you get your new Filament in tho... you will have the knowledge to fix it quicker! Ahh the many many variables of 3 d printing.

 

This will have to be done a lot . EVen for the different moisture sucked by by the filament so this will be fun but i thaught I might share this with you guys anyway

 

Much Appreciated... always good to have picture examples

 

Great stuff,
would love for a picture guide to problems, to low temperature examples, to high, too fast, like a visual FAQ

 

what should i do if my printer puts out filament butbut it doesent stick to the pad?

 

Another visual FAQ for troubleshooting. I haven't run into most of these, but it told me to use a skirt with ABS, I did, and it works for a lot of parts (not the flexibility tester though).
http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide

 

I thought reducing temp was the cure, but it seems that there's a sweet spot in temperature.
And for some filaments (XT and Taulman 618), it seems they ooze too much anyway, so the only cure is to increase the "non-print move speed" to the maximum (though XT with 4 is ok... anything less didn't make a difference).

 

Put the nozzle closer to the bed. Is it curling up onto the nozzle?

 

Argh. I've been putting my filament into a box atop the Robo3d (add a nightlight to keep them dry) - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:215996, so I can't see the spool sides.

Looks like it's time to add a rider card (3x5 index card holder) that I can put in front of the corresponding spool that'll have the details for each spool).

I'm beginning to see why the commercial guys make you pay for the razor blades too (besides pure profit motive)... but I'm happy tweaking away and now that I have a filter for my Filastruder (and have my thermistor epoxied in the printhead), hopefully it'll be all tweaking and no draino-ing.

 

Use CURA.
I wish ROBO 3D team would get rid of crappy repetier. Its too unpredictable.
Cura generates much better code, i got my 1st print working in CURA as oppose to 20 failed once in repetier.
Dont waste your time ,SWITCH NOW before you get too familiar with repetier

 

Is matter control any good?

 

Didnt know such thing exist. Will give it a try.

 

Matter Control is what they use in the new setup video that isn't public yet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I just downloaded and installed matter control.
Here is what i learned.
It lacks few things that CURA has. It does not gray out your model when it goes beyond print boundaries including skirt or raft that surrounds your model.
It does not have 3d preview of layers, only 2D.

It has both Slic3r and Cura engine to select as a slicer. You have what Repetier comes with and what Cura comes with in terms of which slicer to use.

I chose Cura because of its slicer. Its GUI is built around its slicer whereas matter control built to support both.
Its all good but not very eazy to use. Things are not where they should be. Settings are widely spread. No standard for GUI component placement is followed indicating that people who made it had very little respect for standard rules of GUI making, perhaps Linux users created it. Linux users have hard time coding the way that would be expected. Instead what they do is create buttons where they dont belong and make them look like what they should not.
Looks good is not works good.

My conclusion is:
matter control is not practical.
It looks good but so is the dog poop wrapped in a nice candy wrapper.
CURA all the way !!!!!!