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Galaxius' Printer

Discussion in 'Show and Tell' started by Galaxius, Jul 28, 2014.

  1. Mike Glass

    Mike Glass Active Member

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    You could just get out the dremel and take care of that. :D
     
  2. Galaxius

    Galaxius Well-Known Member

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    A few weeks ago I added Ziggy's SSR design and some under bed insulation. Insulation is a must to protect the cable chain from warping, trust me. I'm using 2 layers of aluminium foil and a layer of baking paper held on with kapton tape successfully. Though the kapton tape doesn't really sick to the baking paper, hence the grid of tape to help hold it up. I'm using this until I can get a hold of some sisalation, but I'm in no rush to change since it works well.
    It's important to run the kapton tape all the way around the edge of the foil to keep the heat in. Covering a larger area than just the heater means the heat can spread through the glass a little further, I think :).
    Ziggy's insulation thread: http://forums.robo3dprinter.com/ind...-heating-and-better-temperature-control.3935/
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
  3. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Maybe if you use PLA :p

    Looks slick though
     
  4. Galaxius

    Galaxius Well-Known Member

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    I moved the Y axis end stop back about 10mm for more Y travel and print area. Every mm counts lol
    [​IMG]
     
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  5. Galaxius

    Galaxius Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I'm using PLA lol. But I figure it helps protect the other components too :)
    It also reduced bed heat time to 115C from 14min to 6min30sec, though I have Ziggy's SSR too.
     
  6. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Yeah PLA is a poor choice for under the bed. It'll start to soften at 60C and the bed will radiate heat through unless there's an insulator. Just a word of caution :)

    I wonder what's up with my new heater. Seems to take like 10 minutes to get to 110C even with 250W on 24v.... That was with a corkboard insulator.
     
  7. Galaxius

    Galaxius Well-Known Member

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    Foil or sisalation for the win lol. Maybe put 2 layers of foil on like I did before the cork, shiny side towards the heater.
     
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  8. Ziggy

    Ziggy Moderator
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    With the reflective under bed insulation and 12v power the bed takes around 6 mins to reach 115c and cruises easily at that temp.

    bedtemp006.jpg
     
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  9. k1e1v1i1n

    k1e1v1i1n Active Member

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    My end stop is back further stock. Its almost next to the guide bearing.
     
  10. Galaxius

    Galaxius Well-Known Member

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    My bed end well hit the bearing housing if I move it back any further.
     
  11. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    He's using a different design than the stock Y rails
     
  12. Galaxius

    Galaxius Well-Known Member

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    I'm using tonycstech's y axis upgrade. I currently have 268mm of y axis travel.
     
  13. Robert Choban

    Robert Choban Active Member

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    Galaxius, I'm trying to use you dual parts fan setup, I have the hexagon hotend and its cooling fan holder is interferring with how you connect the front parts fan to the X carriage. Could you show me a picture of how your extruder fan is setup.
     
  14. k1e1v1i1n

    k1e1v1i1n Active Member

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    Page 2 near the top
     

    Attached Files:

  15. Galaxius

    Galaxius Well-Known Member

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  16. Robert Choban

    Robert Choban Active Member

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    Thanks that help
     
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  17. Robert Choban

    Robert Choban Active Member

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    Galaxius, I going to buy 2 parts fan like you show above. What type of fans do I need and where did you buy them.
    On your setup are the 2 parts fan, the hexagon hot end fan, and the fan above the ramps card all the same size.
    The fan that is shipped with the hexagon is smaller than the parts fan.
    Also the way you have your hot end fan attached, you are not using any type of shroud to direct the air, have you had any problems with the upper part of the hot end getting too hot and cause a blockage.
     
  18. Galaxius

    Galaxius Well-Known Member

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    All the fans are 40mm 9 blade fans 10mm thick. I bought my fans from eBay and made sure they were the same 9 blade design. They were about $5 each. It's a good idea to get an extra one so you have a spare for when one fails, none of mine have yet fortunately.
    My hexagon came with a 40mm fan and this was the only mounting solution at the time, I've never had a clog.
    A duct for a side mounted 40mm hexagon cooling fan is on my design to-do list.
     
  19. Jokerk

    Jokerk New Member

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    Galaxius, great work on your printer! I'm having a problem with one of your upgrades and I was wondering if you could help me out?

    I got two fans (sharkoon 40x40x20) off the internet and installed your fan holders (http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?attachments/img_2965a-jpg.4053/)

    however, my printhead won't stay warm now. I'm not sure if it is due to the lack of power, or that it's because my fans are cooling too fast. Did you have any problems like this?
     
  20. Galaxius

    Galaxius Well-Known Member

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    Thanks. I use to have problems when I had the old J head but after upgrading to the Hexagon with the silicon jacket for the heat block I haven't had a problem with hotend temperature.
    Those fans have have a lot of airflow. Make sure they're only blowing on the very tip of the nozzle maybe. Do you have a pic of your setup?
     

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