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Glueing the Hotend into the Extruder

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Kaan, Sep 14, 2015.

  1. Kaan

    Kaan Member

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    Even when I first screwed in the hotend into the extruder assembly, it was a little bit wobbly (E3D upgrade), now that the assembly has seen some abuse, it's more wobblier than ever, the obvious thing to do is to replace the "greg's wade" - yet I'm really extremely lazy to do so (wobbliness == beaing able to push the nozzle ~1mm with a finger)

    The idea is to insert some glue before and with the 2 screws (so insert glue before the screws and keep applying glue while inserting the screws, pretty challenging)

    1) Hot glue
    Pro: Not extremely hard, likely removable (since hot glue is easy to remove)
    Con: Hard to apply, likely weak, more prone to wobbliness after some abuse
    2) Gorilla Glue
    Pro: Strong, easily appliable
    Con: Not removable, the entire X/Extruder assembly will likely need to be replaced together
    3) Zip Tie
    Just came up with this one, maybe the extruder could be tied to the upper assembly with some zip-ties, for some added stength -- hard to add the cooling fan into the mix

    I would really appreciate some ideas
     
  2. Mike Glass

    Mike Glass Active Member

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    I vote for hot glue, use the clearest ones you can find, they seem to work the best.
     
  3. jbigler1986

    jbigler1986 Active Member

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    Get some M4 bolts to hold on the hotend instead of M3. The bolts wear into the heatsink and then the m3 ones don't really hold it anymore. Or you can get some JB Weld
     
    mark tomlinson likes this.
  4. Kaan

    Kaan Member

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    JB Weld looks good, during my re-build, I assessed several glueing/tightening options, I also thought the extruder plastic/screws would be damaged by now, but it doesn't seem to show any wear, so I ended up re-screwing things, at another side of the heatsink as the existing screw-paths were probably worn (visually they seemed ok, I don't know what caused the dislodgement, M3 traction might indeed be very brittle) - so I skipped the glue/tightening ideas this time (I couldn't print a replacement extruder with the dislodged hotend, so I went with the default screws to print the replacement before I attempt something intrusive, I'm glad I did this, now I have a printed spare extruder and probably a hotend/nozzle that will last some time)

    It works for now, I started wondering whether this clumsiness is by design, if the hotend doesn't get dislodged easily, the forces during a messed print could break/wear something else, currently it just seems to wear off the aluminium of the heatsink

    The M4 idea is pretty interesting, I guess they work better with a 3d-printed extruder, I don't see them going in easily with the default molded extruder

    I guess it might also be a good idea to take the default jhead/wade extruder design, add a hole for the E3D V6 ptfe-tube and 2 more enlarged holes for M4 screws at the heatsink holder area, to be on the safe side
     
  5. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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  6. Kaan

    Kaan Member

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    Yes it's even better as it's designed to accommodate the black part, yet it's unclear whether it allows the ptfe tubing to reach the hobbed bolt, didn't inspect it too deeply - it's probably a better idea to modify the original manually with Tinkercad since the changes needed are extremely minor ones and use this one as a reference
     
  7. jbigler1986

    jbigler1986 Active Member

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    modify the one daniel posted to allow the ptfe tube. or just drill it out. Also please never use glue to hold the hotend in place. We were just messing with you.
     
  8. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, the benefit to the one I posted is that you just drill out the one hole. The counterbore is already done and you don't have to worry about counterboring too deep or messing up the alignment by not being on-center for that counterbore.
     

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