Hard Bounds on Cura slicer settings

I will attempt to answer some of these

Max travel speed, I would leave at 100 mm/s, you will experience vibration artifacts if you use the firmware default values. You can play with faster speeds but the results will likely be less than optimal.

Maximum retraction should only be about 3 mm, but the key to retraction is you just want enough to not leave an artifact on the print. Too much and when you restart there won't be enough pressure to extrude. So less is more here.

Retaction speed is only limited by the amount of acceleration the stepper can stand without stuttering. The Robo default is basically the same as Marlin's firmware default.

Maximum extruder temperature is 300°C but in practical terms you can't exceed 290°C without RoboLCD spitting back 290°C at you, G-code can use temps up to 300°C but may result in an error since that is the hard firmware limit and the thermistors used in these printers drift considerably when the temps are that high. With few exceptions you won't be using any filament that needs that high a temperature. With the exception of PET filaments you usually want to extrude at the lowest possible temperature that provide smooth flow at the print speed you have selected. PET filaments generally like hotter temps to avoid stringing.

Highest bed temperature you can set is 125°C, but the RoboLCD will only allow you to input a value no higher than 100°C, if you try it will change your input to 100°C. Again G-code will allow setting higher, up to the firmware limit, guaranteed it will result in a temperature error and abort the print before the bed temp gets that high. For all practical purposes 100°C is about the limit. Here, because the bed has either a PEI or BuildTak surface the need for extreme heat is negated.

3D printing is never about extremes, it is all about compromise.

 

Agree with @supercazzola it was printed too hot. Where you want more heat is PET filaments (PETT & PETG), nearly all other filaments get stringy when printed too hot. Speed is one of those things you tune after everything else is just right. Once you get a good print, find a small item like Deprime (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:66175) or some other small test model, then you start ramping up the speed until you feel you have an acceptable loss of detail for the speed tradeoff. I routinely print on an unmodified R2 at 50 - 60 mm/s but did not start at that number. Started around 30 mm/s and ramped it up when I had what I considered a perfect print (I must have printed a hunderd Deprime models). With a stock R2 I find the acceptable loss of detail happens around 50 - 60 mm/s. It will be apparent in rounded corners and ringing on details that stick out of the main plane the print is in on most vertical surfaces.

 

Try changing temps 5°C in both directions with a small model like this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2219103
If temps don't do it then increase retraction in 0.02 mm increments until either stringing stops or other issues manifest.

Do not believe anyone that gives you an absolute with regard to settings. I nor the other long time posters here will give you a one number specific answer to how something must be printed.

No matter what slicer you use, the video tutorials on S3D's website gives lots of good advice on what you can change to resolve certain issues. https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

 

Exactly. Temperatures (for example) are an experiment for every spool/printer/room Test it and adjust it until the small test model works and then jot that number down.

 

@Shrey No I can't because mine is way modified and there is no way you would be able to run at my settings with a stock R2.

 

I already posted a bunch of suggestions in this thread. What usually works on a stock R2. I print about 50% faster than stock and could go even faster if I wanted to tweak the settings a bit more. That is why you can't rely on other people's settings. All 3D printer settings should be taken as a suggestion and not gospel.

 

Seriously though, every one is different: either the printer is slightly different or the filament is or the environment is and ... it all matters