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heatbed and bed leveling

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by CAMBO3D, Jul 5, 2013.

  1. CAMBO3D

    CAMBO3D New Member

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    24v kapton heater, fast heat up time
    aluminum heat spreader (.06" thick) Provides even heat distribution.
    boro glass for build surface. Maintains a flat and level-able build surface
    CIMG2391.JPG
    CIMG2457.JPG
    3d printed bed corners, raise the build surface to allow heatbed wiring and leveling, also to keep the build surface constrained
    CIMG2450.JPG

    Bed leveling simple.

    CIMG2511.JPG CIMG2512.JPG

    upgraded dedicated heatbed power supply and electrical

    ssr for heat bed power control via ramps
    CIMG2486.JPG
     
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  2. fabrice

    fabrice New Member

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    Hello you have a place to buy glass borosilicate?Je am French, macmaster, not the book france.Dans my country, not easy to find too expensive.

    Cordially
     
  3. Stealth103

    Stealth103 New Member

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    Hi Cambo,

    Are there STL files available for that bed leveling setup?

    Thanks!
     
  4. CAMBO3D

    CAMBO3D New Member

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    Attached Files:

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  5. JDM_

    JDM_ New Member

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    How much Z-Axis did you loose?
     
  6. CAMBO3D

    CAMBO3D New Member

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    about 1/2"
     
  7. Stealth103

    Stealth103 New Member

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    Thanks for the STL. The base under your bed seems quite large. Is that the stock base? If so I'm guessing you could've fit a larger piece of boro/aluminum (if one of the correct size exists). Haven't gotten my printer yet, but I'm looking to get a setup similar to what you're using. Is 10" x 10" the largest piece of boro/aluminum I can fit?
     
  8. CAMBO3D

    CAMBO3D New Member

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    10" is the widest width that will fit,

    i supposed you could get a longer length to fill the length of the birch if you wanted to.
     
  9. Stealth103

    Stealth103 New Member

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    Okay, good to know. Thanks.
     
  10. CAMBO3D

    CAMBO3D New Member

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    keep in mind though, it will be pointless to get one that size because you wont be able to use the full length without modifying the mechanicals a little.
     
  11. Stealth103

    Stealth103 New Member

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    okay, was wondering about that. Thanks.
     
  12. Michael DiFilippo

    Michael DiFilippo Active Member

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    Cambo so you use the little screw (the 4-40) to raise the bed or lower it to level it, does this mean that the bed actually only sits on the screw then and not the corner?
     
  13. CAMBO3D

    CAMBO3D New Member

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    yes sits on the screw when you raise/lower it, the rest of the bed is constrained by the corner pieces.

    However this will only work to a certain extent. Make sure your birch ply is level as you can get it before you do this mod. There's probably about 3mm of adjustment range on each corner. If you go beyond that you end up lifting the glass beyond the corner constraints
     
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  14. Michael DiFilippo

    Michael DiFilippo Active Member

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    I'll have to give it a go. My setup right now uses springs between the corner piece and the birch wood but doesn't seem to be the best option. The center of my print platform seems to be great, its when I go larger and out from the center I get issues. Appreciate all the info!
     
  15. CAMBO3D

    CAMBO3D New Member

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    are you using the robo heated pcb? if so get rid of it. That adds on to your problems when it gets heated because the pcb doesn't sit flat, at least for mine it wasn't. Even out of the box.

    post your bed leveling solution..when you get a chance.
     
  16. fabrice

    fabrice New Member

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    Hello, I ask anyway, to put the bed niveau.Est it possible to use a laser level instead of a comparator?

    Cordially
     
  17. Seshan

    Seshan Active Member

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    You are not trying to level the bed like you would a shelf, You are trying to level the bed with the nozzle so the distance between the bed and the nozzle are the same all through out the bed.
     
  18. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    It seems as if the idea of a more rigid bed seems to be the resolution that a lot of people are looking for. The aluminum sheet would be a lot more rigid and definitely less likely to warp the only thing you really need to worry about is getting a flat piece in the first place. With that concern out of the way it seems like other things could be accurately set and stay that way.
     
  19. Michael DiFilippo

    Michael DiFilippo Active Member

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    It is on the heated PCB but i have boro glass over it, wouldn't the boro glass take care of the warp? I'm just hesitant on going with the kapton tape heater w/ aluminum purely because it is more money investing in the printer than I wanted to have to do out of the gate.
     
  20. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    The tighter your tolerance to the bed surface the more any inconsistencies will affect prints. You mention elsewhere you were using normal paper to set the z axis of the bed for zero which is pretty tight so you could see problems with even the slight warp.
     

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