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[Help] config.g for Kickstarter Robo3D

Discussion in 'Software' started by mattcelt, May 27, 2020.

  1. mattcelt

    mattcelt New Member

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    Hello, all! I was a Robo3D kickstarter backer a donkey's age ago. I have never gotten my Robo3D to successfully print anything, but I figured that during lockdown was as good a place as any to correct that. I missed out on the R1+ upgrades when they were available, so I'm stuck with 1st-gen (beta) hardware.

    So I've purchased the Duet 2 WiFi controller, and updated it to the 3.1.1 firmware. So now it's time to hook it up to my printer... and I'm stuck.

    The firmware requires that things like fans and heaters be explicitly defined in config.g using gcode. But I can't find a comprehensive list of the Robo3D original hardware and their associated parameters anywhere online.

    Has anyone successfully gotten a Duet 2 working with the original Robo3D? Or know where I might find the parameters I need to be able to deduce how to configure it properly?

    I have been looking forward to having a working printer literally for years now, and I'm almost in sight of that goal... please help!

    Thanks very much in advance!

    (Oh, almost forgot - I do have the heated bed option to print PLA and ABS.)
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    So with no experience on the Duet 2 or what it wants to get the firmware going -- you need to be more specific.

    How about some examples? I am not sure what exactly you are looking for in terms of "gcode" since that is all handled by Marlin, the CONFIGURATION.H from the 2013 kickstarter version of the printer (and I have two that are still running well so I can certainly help with that hardware) calls out the actual Marlin configuration.

    I presume the Duet has a different flavor of firmware and that is what you are trying to configure.
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    P.S. it looks like from other threads that @danzca6 used a duet wifi at some point last year.
     
  4. mattcelt

    mattcelt New Member

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    Thanks for the reply, and sorry - as a neophyte, I didn't know what I should include.

    I'm sorry, I don't know what Marlin is. I've seen loads of references to it, but I'm unclear what it does. :(

    Unless I'm mistaken, the Duet will end up completely replacing the original Robo3D control board... or do I have that wrong??

    The Duet 2 uses a firmware that has direct gcode in its configuration file, "config.g". I can't post a link here yet (too few posts), but it's at github - just search for "Duet 3D reprap firmware" and it should come up. It appears to be a variation on the standard RepRap firmware, I'm guessing?

    Each config line is a gcode entry: M140, M552, M308, etc. with its associated parameters - switch polarity, heater profile, fan on/off or PWM, etc. I want to ensure that I don't push the printer's hardware past its capabilities, so I'm trying to ensure before I try to print anything that I have it all properly defined.

    Is that more along the lines of the information you need? Thanks very much for the help!
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    From what I can see the Duet uses RepRap firmware.

    Start here:

    https://configtool.reprapfirmware.org/Start

    I am not sure you need to do anything to the config.g -- that is one of the last screens in their "configuration tool" you can step through there. I'd start with that and take the defaults while setting the correct values for X/Y/Z axis sizes and endstop. See how close that gets you.
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  7. mattcelt

    mattcelt New Member

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    Thanks, Mark - that link lists the exact information I need for the Robo3D, but haven't yet been able to find. Is there a way to extract that from the Marlin firmware? I had a cursory look at the source code, but it wasn't obvious to me where those values are stored.

    Looking at the configurator, the default settings for the axes might be fine, but I don't know about things like the step values - are my Robo3D motors 1.8* capable, or some other value? Is the rated current 0.8A? What maximum acceleration speeds will they handle?

    I want to get the most out of my printer without breaking it. :p
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yes, they are 200 steps / rotation (360/200 = 1.8) that is the default for almost all steppers you see in FDM printers. A few do use 0.9 degree motors, but not many.

    Yes, that is also the default for most NEMA 17 motors. They are actually good up to 1.5 amps/

    I would keep it below 1000, but certainly keep it below 3000.


    Most all of that is from the CONFIGURATION.H as well :)
     
  9. Joehsmash

    Joehsmash Member

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    Hey, i figure i would just chime in on this seeing as im actually doing this literally as we speak. and trying to work through most of the issues.

    i can pretty well answer almost any question that you have and can give you my config files if need be.

    also my config and homing are working, im currently working on getting the end stops to work as a probe. which isnt working at all right now.
     
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  10. Joehsmash

    Joehsmash Member

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    Here is my config.g now keep in mind i have a Duet 2 Wifi running RRF3.1.1

    ; Configuration file for Duet WiFi (firmware version 3)
    ; executed by the firmware on start-up
    ;
    ; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v3.1.1 on Mon Jun 01 2020 23:00:11 GMT-0600 (Mountain Daylight Time)
    ; General preferences
    G90 ; send absolute coordinates...
    M83 ; ...but relative extruder moves
    M550 P"Joehbo 3D" ; set printer name
    ; Network
    M552 S1 ; enable network
    M586 P0 S1 ; enable HTTP
    M586 P1 S0 ; disable FTP
    M586 P2 S0 ; disable Telnet
    ; Drives
    M569 P0 S1 ; X Axis physical drive 0 goes forwards
    M569 P1 S1 ; Y Axis physical drive 1 goes forwards
    M569 P2 S1 ; Z Axis physical drive 2 goes forwards
    M569 P3 S1 ; Z Second Axis physical drive 3 goes forwards
    M569 P4 S0 ; Extruder physical drive 4 goes Backwards
    M584 X0 Y1 Z2:3 E4 P3 ; Dual Z Axis
    M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16:16 I1 ; Configure microstepping with interpolation
    M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z800.00 E790.00 ; Set steps per mm
    M566 X1020.00 Y1020.00 Z24.00 E24.00:120.00 ; set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
    M203 X6000 Y6000 Z180 E180:8000 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min)
    M201 X6000 Y6000 Z100 E100:3000 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2)
    M906 X935 Y935 Z935 E935:935 I30 ; Set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
    M84 S2 ; Set idle timeout
    ; Axis Limits
    M208 X-114 Y-127 Z0 S1 ; Set axis minima
    M208 X114 Y127 Z203 S0 ; Set axis maxima
    ; Endstops
    M574 X1 P"xstop" S1 ; Set active low endstops
    M574 Y1 P"ystop" S1 ; Set active low endstops
    M574 Z1 S1 P"!zstop+!e0stop" ; Z axis with two motors, individual min endstops, active low
    M558 P0 C"!zstop+!e0stop" B1 X0 Y0 Z0 H2 F60 T6000 ; Set Z probe type to switch, the axes for which it is used and the dive height + speeds
    G31 P1000 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height
    M671 X-144:144 Y0:0 S0.5 ; leadscrews at left (connected to Z) and right (connected to E0) of X axis
    M557 X-108:108 Y-110:98 S100 ; define mesh grid
    ; Heaters
    ; Bed
    M308 S0 P"!bedtemp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4138 ; configure sensor 0 as thermistor on pin bedtemp
    M950 H0 C"bedheat" T0 ; create bed heater output on bedheat and map it to sensor 0
    M307 H0 B1 S1.00 ; enable bang-bang mode for the bed heater and set PWM limit
    M140 H0 ; map heated bed to heater 0
    M143 H0 S120 ; set temperature limit for heater 0 to 120C
    ; Nozzle
    M308 S1 P"e0temp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4138 ; configure sensor 1 as thermistor on pin e0temp
    M950 H1 C"e0heat" T1 ; create nozzle heater output on e0heat and map it to sensor 1
    M307 H1 B0 S1.00 ; disable bang-bang mode for heater and set PWM limit
    ; Fans
    M950 F0 C"fan0" Q500 ; create fan 0 on pin fan0 and set its frequency
    M106 P0 S0 H-1 ; set fan 0 value. Thermostatic control is turned off
    M950 F1 C"fan1" Q500 ; create fan 1 on pin fan1 and set its frequency
    M106 P1 S1 H-1 ; set fan 1 value. Thermostatic control is turned off
    ; Tools
    M563 P0 D0 H1 F0 ; define tool 0
    G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 ; set tool 0 axis offsets
    G10 P0 R0 S0 ; set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C
    ; Custom settings are not defined
    M501
     
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  11. Joehsmash

    Joehsmash Member

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    im going to do a write up once im finally finished... just trying to get any answers takes FOREVER on the forum. and thats the only way to get support.
     
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  12. mattcelt

    mattcelt New Member

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    I truly appreciate you chiming in, @Joehsmash!

    I have identified and labelled all the connectors on the original control board, and updated my Duet firmware to 3.1.1. I also have a Panel5i connected to the Duet.

    But when I went to start connecting the Duet this morning, I found that there are four power leads (2x V+, 2x V-) coming from the power supply, but only one pair on the Duet... I'm not finding anything in the documentation on that. Do I bridge the leads, or just ignore one pair?

    I'll compare your config.g with the one I generated on the site linked above and see what I find that's different.

    And when you say you want to use the end stops as a probe, what does that mean, exactly?


    Thanks again!
     
  13. Joehsmash

    Joehsmash Member

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    Well currently using marlin you can use your nozzle to probe the bed where as swapping to duet you will be using rrf and they currently dont have anyway to use your nozzle as a probe. So you will lose the auto probe feature.
     
  14. mattcelt

    mattcelt New Member

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    Ahh well I've never made a successful print with my Robo3D, so I didn't know that was even possible. -_-

    Still stymied by the mains, though. Why did the Robo3D original controller use two pair of leads, but the Duet only has one pair? What do I do with the extra pair?
     
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Because the RAMPS has two mains. One for 15 amps and one for 5 amps. Most 3rd party boards did not do that. Generally the hotend and motors were one one and the heated bed on another.

    single power supply with a single output transformer driving both taps. So ... nothing lost or gained by using only one :)
     
  16. mattcelt

    mattcelt New Member

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    Good to know I'll remove the second pair of leads and try @Joehsmash's config file. Thank you both!
     
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You are welcome sir.
    The stock power supply is good for 30 amps (350w more or less) -- if you need more you can get 40 amp ones for not much.
     
  18. Joehsmash

    Joehsmash Member

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    sorry, i would have chimed in a little earlier but you know.. life lol

    i would have been useless any ways, i swapped out my orgional psu out for an ATX a long time ago.
     
  19. mattcelt

    mattcelt New Member

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    Sorry for the long delay between replies - life keeps getting in the way.

    So I think I have most of the connectors set and sorted. Mostly straightforward, though I do have a couple of questions:

    My z-axis motor control bands (the four-wire ZA and ZB connectors) were arranged with ZA with the blue wire to the left, and ZB with the black wire to the left on the Marlin, even though they're labelled [2B 2A 1A 1B] on the PCB. Are they intended to be wired opposite (by colour) to one another on the Duet board as they were on the original?

    The extruder (which I gather is called the "hotend" around these parts) motor control destination was not indicated on the Duet documentation, but by process of elimination, I connected it to E0. (I presume a dual-extruder setup would use E1 for the second motor.)

    Lastly, there is a pair of small black and red wires attached to the "D9" block on the Marlin. Am I right in thinking that that's the extruder fan, and the other pair of small gauge wires that run to the extruder is the VSSA thermsistor?
     
  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The extruder has the plastic gears and the hotend is what melts the filament :)

    E0 is extruder 1 and E1 = extruder 2, etc (if you have more)

    This shows what connects where on the R1+ board:

    Robo3D R1 +Plus Ramps Board (labeled).jpg

    and this is the R1/Beta board:

    RAMPS Wiring Robo.gif
     

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