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Unresolved Help with printing a spinning top

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Robert Choban, Jan 28, 2015.

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  1. Robert Choban

    Robert Choban Active Member

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    I would appreciate if someone could look at the attached pictures and give me any ideas on how to fix my problem. Thanks
    I have a Robo R1, enclosed bottom, 8mm rods, hexagon hot end.
    I am using Cura software to print
    See PDF attachment for cura software settings
     

    Attached Files:

    #1 Robert Choban, Jan 28, 2015
  2. k1e1v1i1n

    k1e1v1i1n Active Member

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    Is the cone hollow?
     
    #2 k1e1v1i1n, Jan 28, 2015
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The model is too hot at the top. You need to try some (or all) of the below:


    1) lower the print temp a bit
    2) insure the parts cooling fan is on (if this is PLA)
    3) increase the minimum time to print a layer (which will force the slicer to allow more time for previous layers to cool).

    edit: The skirt is not adhering which could just be that you need something to aid in that (gluestick, painters tape, etc). The model does look OK at the bottom so it is adhering. However it looks like this picture is after removal from the bed so the skirt might have been adhering fine.
     
    #3 mark tomlinson, Jan 28, 2015
  4. k1e1v1i1n

    k1e1v1i1n Active Member

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    Anyone have any idea where I would find that 3rd setting in Cura?
     
    #4 k1e1v1i1n, Jan 28, 2015
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    under my old cura this is with the advanced tab, then the COOL section.
     
    #5 mark tomlinson, Jan 28, 2015
  6. k1e1v1i1n

    k1e1v1i1n Active Member

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    Thanks
     
    #6 k1e1v1i1n, Jan 28, 2015
  7. Ben R

    Ben R Active Member

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    if that doesn't work.. slow it down, I don't use cura, but one slicer I use (can't remember which one off hand, actually will pause, move the head away from the print and let it cool for some set time before printing the next layer once the layers get under a time limit I set. there may be a "turn on fan" or "slow down to XX if layer is under XX seconds."
     
    #7 Ben R, Jan 30, 2015
  8. Robert Choban

    Robert Choban Active Member

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    K1e1v1i1n, the part that is messing up is not hollow
    Mark, I will be making your suggested changes sometime this week end and report back
    Defendermd, my speed in cura is 35mm, you said you don't use Cura, what software do you use, is it Simplify 3D.
     
    #8 Robert Choban, Jan 31, 2015
  9. Ben R

    Ben R Active Member

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    I just bought S3D this morning. Matterslice and Slic3r both do what I was talking about, I'm sure cura must as well... somewhere.. I am not too familiar with cura, I didn't like the "ease of access" settings. Seemed restricted even compared to matter slice.

    No.. I take that back. Just opened matter control and chose CURA and no options to vary speed. Drop it and go with a different slicer?
    Seems to be an ultimaker aimed piece of software? I don't know. Don't like it...

    repetier-host is my fav among the freebies. Mater control isn't bad either. It has all the settings, but looks a little more "finished product" than everything else.
     
    #9 Ben R, Jan 31, 2015
  10. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Yeah cura is intended for the ultimaker which has an lcd for adjusting speed settings etc. honestly I never saw the benefit of using those in the first place
     
    #10 Mike Kelly, Jan 31, 2015
  11. Ben R

    Ben R Active Member

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    need to adjust speed?

    Print a pointy thing with PLA... fan is not enough. ya end up with a cork screw.
    I mean, the speeds change for everything else. infill, first layer, outside perimeters, bridges... pointy things need it too.
     
    #11 Ben R, Jan 31, 2015
  12. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    I meant like Flow % and Feed %. Never saw the point of them.
     
    #12 Mike Kelly, Jan 31, 2015
  13. Ben R

    Ben R Active Member

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    oh... yea.. only time I've touched those is if I picked the wrong type of filament or am using a new filament that isn't working out right.

    That petG... hot it is very clear, cold it bridges well. I turned down the speed for some top layer filling earlier today. But.. again, that's kind of because of experimentation/emergency fix. If I hadn't walked by right then, it would have just had a bad top fill.

    Actually... I frequently will pump my speed up 50% using the feed rate. rather than changing all my settings... just multiply them.
     
    #13 Ben R, Jan 31, 2015
  14. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    Hi Robert, Mark's suggestions are good, but that may not be enough to fix it or might only partially fix, still giving a corkscrew a little higher up.

    The problem is heat dwell. With a thin spiky part like that, the hot nozzle is more or less always near the same point, so the material can't cool properly even if the nozzle is moving more slowly.

    You can click the cool head lift on. That is the point of that setting.

    Another option is to add a sacrificial part to the print. A second tower of the same height just so that the nozzle moves away from the section that is giving you trouble.
     
    #14 Printed Solid, Jan 31, 2015
  15. Robert Choban

    Robert Choban Active Member

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    Matt, I'm using cura software, where is the "cool lift head on " parameter
    By printing the second tower the head moves to that tower giving the first tower time to cool before the next layer is added, is that the idea?
     
    #15 Robert Choban, Jan 31, 2015
  16. Ben R

    Ben R Active Member

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    yup. I do it all the time. Never print one ... whatever.. I print snap caps for my guns. Bullets print horribly in some materials by themselves. 2 of the same height print perfectly. Tallest pointy thing always has a twist.. so print 2. or make a sacrificial model.. just a pillar or tube ...
     
    #16 Ben R, Jan 31, 2015
  17. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    It's a check box at the bottom of the cool section of the expert settings.
    Yup. The principle is exactly what you're describing.
     
    #17 Printed Solid, Feb 1, 2015
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