Hexagon Hotend higher temperature?

I have the R1 with the Hexagon all metal hot end, so because its all metal and not a PEEK end, does this mean i can print higher then 235C?

If that be the case, how risky is editing/reflashing the Marlin firmware to increase the maximum extruder temperature? I believe I saw a few people on the forum who did just that and their printers never printed good since then. Would throwing an additional resistor in series with the thermistor work for increasing the hot end temperature without modding the firmware?

 

Might as well give it a try if their is no other way. Thank you very much for your help!

 

You should use an autolevel firmware if you have the Hexagon with autolevel printer. Let me know if you need help determining which firmware to use.

 

Hexagon will go to 400C apparently. I have my max temp set to 340C in the firmware. It's easy to modify the configuration.h file and re flash the the firmware to the printer. Mike will help you get the right firmware to use.

If you want to add an LCD controller you'll need to modify the firmware too. Also tweaking some acceleration settings etc in the firmware can be of great benefit as well.

 

Does the thermistor table have values up to 340C? You should be careful with a temp that high.

 

Thermistor table? What max temp do you have yours set to?

 

I have mine set to 290. Once the thermistor reaches around 300C the resistance change per temp quickly drops off. Most thermistors can get by with this with a curve fit, but marlin firmware uses a lookup table. I'm not sure what the max value in their table is, but if your max temp is higher than their max temp it's unlikely to be accurate.

 

Thanks Mike, I'll amend my max temp and try find this lookup table so I can see what its max defined temp is.

 

Thanks. I don't need it that hot, that's just the number I picked. I'm not printing with nylon or anything fancy, not yet anyway.

 

Back to @Mike Dioguardo 's question for a second. As Mark and Galaxius said, the firmware is VERY easy to modify, and if you screw it up, you just redownload it and reflash it and you are good to go. I messed up some when messing with the firmware because I kept downloading the wrong one. I don't have the link on me, but it should be easy to find. It was recently posted in a thread named something like "how do you upgrade the firmware?" A search for "RoBo3DR1V2" should bring it up. That is the name of the firmware you want.

When you are modifying the firmware, search for (80, 80, 2200ish, some other number) and change the 2200ish to 2560. This will fix your z height. 80 was basically spot on for my x and y.