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How do i solve this delamination

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Lasse Knudsen, Feb 6, 2014.

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  1. Lasse Knudsen

    Lasse Knudsen Member

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    Greetings,
    Im printing a box that will be using to house pcb that contains leds, when i print it, i get delamination, and im not really sure what to do about it, i print with abs, at 222 extruder temp and 90 build plate, in an enclosed chamber.
    Any suggestions on how i can solve the problem?

    -lasse IMG_20140206_164447.jpg
     
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  2. Melody Bliss

    Melody Bliss New Member

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    If it's delaminating, you may need to go up in temperature. Delamination means that your layers are not fusing.


    Since you're printing in ABS, another option is to use an acetone bath to smooth and fuse the layers.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  3. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Delamination can also happen due to warping. Try turning the hbp to 100 and use something like abs slurry to adhere it to the build platform.
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    All of the above, + you can increase the infill % some.
    Big solid prints like that are some of the hardest to work with in ABS.
     
  5. Racegrafix

    Racegrafix Active Member

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    I have been printing abs at 260 and 90/85. Parts have been coming out perfect.

    I use at least .6 infill, and vinyl on the glass bed. The part absolutely will not lift off the vinyl bed, that may help in your warping problem.
     
  6. scott

    scott New Member

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    rookie here, what is hbp?
     
  7. Racegrafix

    Racegrafix Active Member

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    Heated bed platform.

    I just like to call it " where the magic happens"
     
  8. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    If you walk through the mechanics of what's going on, higher printing temps and higher heated bed temps actually make things significantly worse.

    It's all about coefficient of thermal expansion (CTE). Materials expand and contract at a certain rate as temperature goes up and down. They also tend to have a shift in expansion/contraction and rate through phase changes (i.e. melting). ABS has a relatively high CTE. This is great for injection molding because it makes the part easier to remove from the mold. Not so good for 3D printing.

    ABS doesn't stick to a build plate well unless it's warm. So, you are starting out with a situation where the temperature of the first few layers is 'frozen' in a more expanded state than the layers above it. This is where you get the tendency for the part to peel at the corners from. A lower build plate temperature would make this better. Some people (not me) have reported good results with build plates as low as 85 with ABS slurry. Another solution here is rafts since the bottom layer of the part won't be quite as close to the hot build plate.

    Going up through the print. More material (i.e. more layers and more infill) is going to make it worse. As the material cools from printing temp to the temp of the surroundings, it is going to contract. The higher the temp you are laying it down with, the more it wants to contract. More material in the print makes the forces involved in the contraction higher. Solutions for this part of the problem are building in a heated or insulated enclosure or building a full part height skirt to keep more heat in.

    I don't really do 5o words or less :)
     
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  9. Racegrafix

    Racegrafix Active Member

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    I print abs at 260, and bed at 90/85. It absolutely will not split, the only thing I ever have to worry about it warping. I wanna try an enclosure to see what that does. I don't think my heat bed is hot enough though, its showing more like 75 actual temp but 85 via the thermistor.
     
  10. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    You've still got all of that residual stress in your parts, so you might find that they start warping or cracking over time.

    That being said, polymer processing in general can sometimes be more art than science, so if you've got something that works for you, stick with it! I figure it's always good to at least be aware of the fundamentals so that you know how to best respond when things stop working.
     
  11. Lasse Knudsen

    Lasse Knudsen Member

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    Sorry for my absense but in the mean time i have had a fully clogged hotend to battle. For this print i have no issues with lifting from the build platform at all, i just got the delamiantion some way through the build.

    260 degrees, can i really print with that high temperature with the stock hotend? i was under the assumption that it its not suitable for temps over 240 degrees.

    -lasse
     
  12. scott

    scott New Member

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    I have tried higher temps and it did not seem to help I will try lower and see how that works, thanks for the imput
     
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The stock hot end is not rated that high. However, I doubt you need to run that high for normal ABS/PLA. Even after replacing my thermistor with the hot end (and the new one reads 'low' which means I have to run the temps hotter) I never have to get above 235 or so for the most stubborn ABS filament.
     
  14. Sachin Kumar

    Sachin Kumar New Member

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    Great collection of information. Keep updating such type of information in future too.
     
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