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Unresolved I give up......

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by shootertim, Apr 28, 2015.

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  1. shootertim

    shootertim New Member

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    Got the printer running......won't stop in the middle of the print anymore. BUT.....I can not get it to print a good part....period. A little back ground, I do have a Flashforge that has been running for about 6 months now with very little issue, so I know my way around a 3d printer somewhat. This ROBO 3d while it has some very nice features.....the extruder cog sucks. The printer ran fine for about 3 weeks....and now.....forget it. I'm running solutech filament which is a very nice PLA

    I am going to try one more time with some ABS......otherwise, someone wanna buy this thing cheap!! abcd.JPG
     
    #1 shootertim, Apr 28, 2015
  2. Stephen Capistron

    Stephen Capistron Active Member

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    I don't know what you use for software with the flashforge, but I would recommend moving away from MatterControl if that is what you are using. It is the source of a number of issues for people. A lot of people have switch to Cura, Repetier, and simplify3D($) without looking back.

    I would also check which threaded rods your unit has and adjust the z steps accordingly. There have been a couple of releases that had 5/16-18 rods and others that were M8 (1.25 pitch). Mark off an inches worth of rod and count them up. If you get 18 your z-steps need to be 2267.72 and 2560 for M8 rods. There was a design change from SAE to metric at one point and even then there was a supplies issue where new units were made with old rods so you really need to check these things out.
     
    #2 Stephen Capistron, Apr 28, 2015
    mark tomlinson likes this.
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    +1

    To clarify 18 threads in an inch is 5/16, more is M8.

    Some machines have shipped with incorrect firmware.

    Look here for latest firmware and instructions:

    http://help.robo3dprinter.com/Wiki/RoBo_3D_Firmware
     
    #3 mark tomlinson, Apr 28, 2015
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yours looks like a Z steps problem (just to elaborate) because the printer is working until it gets higher up (a significant chunk of the bottom of the model appears to have printed). Makes it look like Z steps are wrong.
     
    #4 mark tomlinson, Apr 28, 2015
  5. shootertim

    shootertim New Member

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    Yes, I have the latest eeprom's.....verified last night. the Matter Control WAS working fine. With the flashforge.....I have been using the Makerbot software.


    Will look into the other software........it's funny, if mattercontrol is so bad.....why is it recommended
     
    #5 shootertim, Apr 28, 2015
  6. Stephen Capistron

    Stephen Capistron Active Member

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    Just to clarify. The latest firmware may or may not actually be the right one for your machine. This is why you need to check the threads.
     
    #6 Stephen Capistron, Apr 28, 2015
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Exactly. Not all machines have shipped with the same hardware.
    You might have an R1 with 5/16 rods instead of M8.

    Or it may have had the incorrect firmware installed initially.

    Check the threads and load the correct latest version for starters.
     
    #7 mark tomlinson, Apr 28, 2015
  8. shootertim

    shootertim New Member

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    yes....it's correct. I was printing an item that was designed to be 1.5" and it was about 12 to 13% short.......doing the math I needed the current 2560 steps. I did get a print out that then came up to 1.5"
     
    #8 shootertim, Apr 28, 2015
  9. shootertim

    shootertim New Member

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    OK....here is a REALLY dumb thought........

    The filament that I get from Solutech3D.....is a very consitant and VERY smooth (shiney) filament.
    The filiment that I get from filament outlet has almost a matt finish.

    the picture above is the Solutect3d filament.....which happens to run great in the flash forge.

    I am right now running the other filament from Filament Outlet......and it is running just fine (so far)

    NO WAY.......does this even seem feasable????
     
    #9 shootertim, Apr 28, 2015
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yes.

    You can get crap(py) filament.
    Rare to have filament alone do that, but often the best temperature varies and if it is far enough off you can get spectacular failures.

    the fact that it failed further from the first layer is what makes me think it is not just a filament issue, but see how the new spool runs first.
     
    #10 mark tomlinson, Apr 28, 2015
  11. jbigler1986

    jbigler1986 Active Member

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    It's not a filament problem. It's either wrong steps, loose z threaded rods, loose belt or the ramps is overheating causing it to miss steps. Go down the list
     
    #11 jbigler1986, Apr 28, 2015
  12. shootertim

    shootertim New Member

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    Sad thing is......Solutech is very good filament. The stuff from Filament outlet is kinda known to be crappy. Of course, the flashforge runs the Solutech fine or the Filament Outlet stuff fine too. If this pans out......I'll keep buying from Filament Outlet.
     
    #12 shootertim, Apr 28, 2015
  13. shootertim

    shootertim New Member

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    Seems to be filament to me..........same settings abcde.JPG
     
    #13 shootertim, Apr 28, 2015
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yea, it can happen (but it is rare like I said).

    Most of the normal failures will show up sooner (except Z steps, that one gets worse as you get higher).
     
    #14 mark tomlinson, Apr 28, 2015
  15. shootertim

    shootertim New Member

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    The finish still sucks compared to the flashforge..........I'll try another slicer and then another program. And then.....a new printer.
     
    #15 shootertim, Apr 28, 2015
  16. Stephen Capistron

    Stephen Capistron Active Member

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    The z-ribbing/banding/wobble (whatever you want to call it) is the bane of most peoples existence.

     
    #16 Stephen Capistron, Apr 28, 2015
  17. Stephen Capistron

    Stephen Capistron Active Member

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    #17 Stephen Capistron, Apr 28, 2015
  18. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    I run a replicator dual (which the FF is a clone of) and a Robo (among others) in my shop. You're right, you do get a better surface finish on the replicator, but you have a significantly larger build volume at a lower cost on the Robo. I use them both depending on the job. It's a trade off. One of the other tradeoffs is that there is definitely more tinkering required with the Robo.

    There are threads that address suggestions on the z-wobble issues. You may want to consider checking through them before you sell the printer. Having that extra build volume has come in handy for me a number of times.
     
    #18 Printed Solid, Apr 28, 2015
  19. shootertim

    shootertim New Member

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    OK..............Marquis solution is not one I would recommend. It may have worked for him....but not for others.

    the coupler as purchased is designed for some misalignment.......the support rod should keep things solid. the problem is.....even on the latest release, the rods that the carridge slides on is NOT supported at the top.

    I did a search on Thingaverse and found the supports that attach tot he rod and then are screwed in to the side of the ROBO 3d.

    It is VERY stiff now with no sway.......;.....I'm printing one more part out now.....I'll bet the Z banding is gone

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:216300

    It seems to working VERY WELL!!!




    Tim
     
    #19 shootertim, Apr 28, 2015
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2015
  20. shootertim

    shootertim New Member

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    So here is what I found out today.........

    1) Must run PLA filament that is not glossy......matte finish only (this one was WAY weird!!)
    2) Extrusion Multiplier needs to be set at 1.2 if you are running the factory gears.
    3) To eliminate Z banding (which sucks big time)......you must:
    a) support the upper end of the guide rods......link above
    b) slow your running speed to no more than 40mm/second

    Other little things.......
    Running PLA at 200 to 220 is fine, I get best adhesion running the bed at 50 and I use AQUANET hair spray.
    Clean the extrutor cog if it ever chews up the filament.

    Your mileage my vary.......but I am getting prints now that are almost as nice as the ones coming off the flashforge printer that I have.

    Now......to figure out that dang raft issue.....but that will be the next post I start shortly.
     
    #20 shootertim, Apr 28, 2015
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