1. Got a question or need help troubleshooting? Post to the troubleshooting forum or Search the forums!

I just want to replace the hot end.

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Joseph Stevens, Sep 13, 2019 at 6:35 PM.

  1. Joseph Stevens

    Joseph Stevens New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2017
    Messages:
    10
    Likes Received:
    0
    I can't wait for parts direct to get a new shipment, I just need a link to something I can order from Amazon, plug it into the R2 I've been saddled with at work, and have it start printing.

    I can't keep spending my own money (I'm a teacher) on parts HOPING that they'll fit. I also don't have the time, energy, or interest in 3D printing to do any more fruitless research on which parts are compatible with which machines.


    And now I have to spend my Friday night in my classroom trying to fix our R1+. Thanks in advance.
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    21,249
    Likes Received:
    7,011
    This is the R2 forum, let me move this to the R1 section
    Wait... are you actually asking about the R2?
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    21,249
    Likes Received:
    7,011
    The R2 can ONLY use the hexagon out of the box. Unlike the R1+ (which you could easily swap to another hotend) the R2 can not easily use a different one.

    You can get one from PartsBuilt (who now has Robo parts) or from Amazon (but that will require a bit of tweaking to wire in).
    Sadly PartsBuilt is (ATM) out of stock, but ping them and see when they may get more.

    There is a way to convert the R2 to E3D (for example) but it means printing parts for a new carriage (there is a thread on this if you are interested)
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    21,249
    Likes Received:
    7,011
    If you can get one from PartsBuilt specifically for the R2 then it will be easier to plug in.

    IMHO the R1/R1+ was a far more versatile machine in terms of being able to reconfigure it or swap to different components. Heck if you wanted to use an E3D on the R1+ you printed a new quick-release bar and plugged it in.
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    21,249
    Likes Received:
    7,011
    I am not trying to make the issue overly complicated. If you can manage getting and using the correct crimping tool and connectors/pins then you can buy the hexagon from Amazon and tweak the wires/plugs to fit right in. If that sounds complicated -- don't try it :)

    Sadly Robo no longer carries parts and PartsBuilt (who is the new "official source") is currently out of stock, but DO hit them up so they know you want some.
     
    #5 mark tomlinson, Sep 13, 2019 at 6:55 PM
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2019 at 7:12 PM
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    21,249
    Likes Received:
    7,011

    and if you are stuck, post for some help in the R1 section.. we can point you in the right direction to fix whatever ails you
     
  7. Joseph Stevens

    Joseph Stevens New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2017
    Messages:
    10
    Likes Received:
    0
    I have the aluminum hexagon part of the extruder. I need a new heater block. I bought some this summer, but the size was sufficiently off that I kept getting plastic leaking from the both the top and bottom, even with teflon tape wrapping the threads.
     

    Attached Files:

  8. albert3d

    albert3d Member

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2018
    Messages:
    55
    Likes Received:
    20
    The only difference in the C2 and R2 hotend is the heater cartridge. So if you buy the C2 hotend from partsbuilt, you could use it on the R2 if you just use your old heater cartridge. Since the heater block is all you are needing. You can even get the R2 heater cartridge separate from them if you need a new one of those as well.

    C2 Hotend (in stock as of this post)
    https://www.partsbuilt.com/hotend-assembly-c2-robo-3d/

    R2 heater cartridge (in stock as of this post)
    https://www.partsbuilt.com/r2-heater-core-robo/
     
  9. Joseph Stevens

    Joseph Stevens New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2017
    Messages:
    10
    Likes Received:
    0
    The hexagon components I have now for the r1+ and r2 are identical. Are those supposed to be different apart from the wiring?
     
  10. albert3d

    albert3d Member

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2018
    Messages:
    55
    Likes Received:
    20
    I'm pretty sure they are the same. Some older R1 series hexegons didn't have the thermistor cartridge for instance. You are correct the wiring is different. The connectors and length for one, but also the voltage for the heater cartridges are different.
     
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    21,249
    Likes Received:
    7,011
    the R1 uses 12v the C2 uses 19v and the R2 uses 24v that is the key difference
     
  12. Joseph Stevens

    Joseph Stevens New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2017
    Messages:
    10
    Likes Received:
    0
    Do you know exactly what kind of connectors each uses? Switching out components would be a lot easier if I could just insert them into new connectors instead of soldering them to the old ones.
     
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    21,249
    Likes Received:
    7,011
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    21,249
    Likes Received:
    7,011
    Complete tear-down of C2 in that thread (most of which applies to the R2 as well)

    @Geof has an R2 tear down thread I think
     
  15. tkoco

    tkoco Administrator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    May 7, 2018
    Messages:
    213
    Likes Received:
    105
    You should not need teflon tape to seal the nozzle to the heat-break. After you clean up the heater block ( block.png ), screw the heat break into the heat block on the top and the nozzle ( cleaned up as well ) into the bottom. Of course, install the thermistor sensor and heater to complete the assembly. Install the hot-end assembly into the R2. Have a couple of adjustable wrenches on hand. Power on the R2. Attempt a simple preheat ( to around 40 or 45 C ) to test that the thermistor and heater are wired in correctly.

    If at this point you are successful, set the hot-end to 290 C. Once the hot-end assembly get stable at 290 C, use the 2 adjustable wrenches to snug the heat break and nozzle together. One wrench on the heat block, the other on the nozzle. No guerrilla tightening! Too much torque can strip the threads in the aluminum heater block. Then set a cool-down for the hot-end and wait for it to reach room temperature.

    The aluminum heat block physically shrinks more than the heat break or the nozzle. So as it approaches a lower temperature, the heat break and nozzle junction will tighten even more and completely seal. So long as you don't print filament near 290 C, the joint will remain sealed.

    Afterwards, run the Z Offset, Bed Level & Fine Tune Z Offset wizards. Procedure is at the beginning of the Troubleshooting forum.
     
    #15 tkoco, Sep 17, 2019 at 11:57 AM
    Last edited: Sep 17, 2019 at 12:06 PM

Share This Page