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KS/Beta Rebuild

Discussion in 'Projects' started by grumplestiltskin, Mar 31, 2021.

  1. grumplestiltskin

    grumplestiltskin New Member

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    Hi all; my first post here.

    I was given an R1 that is, after reading many of these threads, I believe an early KS model. It has sat unused for at least 5 years and needs some TLC.

    Since it was given to me by a dear friend who spent some time trying to 'make it work', a lot of the TLC will involve 'un-fixing' my friend's good intentioned fixes. Let's just say that this is someone who should call an electrician to have a lightbulb changed for safety reasons, let alone getting the new one to work!

    This will be a learning experience for me as I am new to 3D printing, but not new to electronics, mechanical repairs, and coding.

    My plan is to strip the machine down and then rebuild it correctly, but also incorporating some of the mods that make it simply better. For example, the Z axis shaft rods have surface rust, so I plan on replacing them along with the LM8UU bearings. At the same time I want to replace the 5/16" threaded rods with T8 leadscrews. There are other similar upgrades that I want to incorporate, but I don't want to go down the path of modifications until the basic unit is functioning as well as it can.

    Once I can post pictures I will, but at this stage I am hoping for some overall guidance. I have read many of the threads about upgrading or fixing individual components, but I am still not 100% sure exactly where I need to aim for and exactly what upgrades I should include to get there.

    Thanks in advance, Dave
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    One thing to consider is to replace the Z threaded rods with leadscrews.
    (those have a stepper integrated on them with no coupler)

    example: https://smile.amazon.com/stepper-External-TR8x2mm-0-07874-Printers/dp/B07GSR5Y43

    Shop around and see what you can find. Eliminating that flexible coupler is a really plus since certain combinations of thread size and pitch will cause some Z axis artifacts due to the (small) amount of wobble the coupler will enable.


    If you can get the R1+ glass bed from PartsBuilt.com you can easily switch over to the same exact bed that the R1 and R1+ used which is also a big improvement.

    Any questions -- fire away.

    I have two former beta machines that are now much upgraded :) One is an R1 equivalent and the other an R1+
     
  3. grumplestiltskin

    grumplestiltskin New Member

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    Hi Mark,

    Thanks for your insight!

    I was planning on doing the leadscrew upgrade for the Z axis using the information in the "alternative-to-the-lead-screw-upgrade-kit" in the Mods and Upgrades section.

    Also on my agenda was the 2 switch Z axis self levelling upgrade.

    I had not read about the different bed and will now include that in my list of things.

    Thanks again, Dave
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Sure, done the autoleveling upgrade as well so if you have questions hit me up :)

    The beta was a solid original RepRap style clone (with a fancy case on it).
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    This is the bed (looks like they are momentarily out of stock):

    https://www.partsbuilt.com/heated-build-plate-r1-robo/

    But you can build your own with a custom cut section of glass, the steel rods and some printed parts.
    Take the heater pad off of the old bed and reuse it.
     
  6. grumplestiltskin

    grumplestiltskin New Member

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    Thanks Mark.

    Just a question about the Z axis leadscrew conversion...

    Are the integrated leadscrews significantly better than just changing them out with a solid coupler?

    Thanks, Dave
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yes, even the solid coupler can have small deviations. The type/style of printing you do may make it a non-issue. If you are printing higher definition models where the finish needs to be your best quality then it may matter. Otherwise, not. Try the solid couplers first and see if you are noticing it :) Two couplers are less expensive than two steppers with leadscrews.

    The older beta I use with an E3D volcano nozzle -- I left it with couplers. It only prints larger objects where the fine details are less important.
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I only throw this out there because some people are looking for maximum resolution and minimal visual distortions.
     
  9. grumplestiltskin

    grumplestiltskin New Member

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    Gotcha.... As always, I am torn between doing it right and doing it sensibly.

    In the grand scheme of things it's not that much more.
     
  10. grumplestiltskin

    grumplestiltskin New Member

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    My new integrated stepper/leadscrews arrived, the printer is almost stripped to individual components and the reassembly is set to start.

    A few questions about screws....

    1. EVERY screw hole seems too small and the threads have cut their own grooves into the plastic. I understand this can help with alignment for critical items, but does EVERYTHING needs to be this way?

    2. All screws are 'regular' head style - any disadvantage to changing to countersunk screws and countersinking the holes? Having things sit flush has a certain visual appeal :) and it also help in keeping things clean.

    Thanks as always, Dave

    O... I guess I should get some pictures of this to document progress...
     
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    1, the holes are sized for the screws they used -- M3 or M2.5... I forget, but yes -- they self-tap through the plastic and they have a nut on the end :) Does it need that? No. You could change them to a smaller size and add a nut (nylock would be the best choice)
    2. Nothing wrong with that idea.
    3. You really should :)



    This is a nylock nut example:
    612wiH-VKGL._SL1000_.jpg
     
  12. grumplestiltskin

    grumplestiltskin New Member

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    Wow! That's a big nut!

    As suggested, here's a few pictures of how things are at present. The base is clean and the platform (I guess that's what it is) just needs a few more things removed. Those big bearing assemblies almost look like stabilizer links from a car!

    At the end is the platform and a pile of stuff. The printer is actually complete - the other bits are scattered on my work bench. Somewhere...

    20210412_210523.jpg 20210412_210535.jpg 20210412_210416.jpg
     
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Now replace those drawer slide rails with some linear rails :)

    Good work.
     
  14. grumplestiltskin

    grumplestiltskin New Member

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    Absolutely! Any suggestions on what process to follow? There's a few I've seen: bronze bushings, plastic, LM8UU...
     
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    This is the one I used on one of my beta machines (the other one I used a kit that Robo themselves had available years ago). This one works fine :)

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:386602

    With the exception of the round rails (and the nuts/bolts/bearings) everything else is 3D printable...
     

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