Lighted E3D

After realizing the need to tune the process while printing the main issue I was having was the ability to actually see what was going on. This solved it. 6 X 5mm LED's and 2 X 120 ohm resistors wired into the E3D fan will do the trick

 

Looks like a great mod. How do you thing the bracket/ring will hold up to being in such close proximity to the heated block?


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so far, so good with a 6 hour print of PLA. I was going to make it bigger and angle the lights in but was too lazy to draw it

 

Neat. You could share this on thingiverse as well

 

I am working on the wiring for a very similar mod. I bought a spool of SMD LED strip lights to put a couple strips on the inside of the top of the case, and a 60mm SMD LED ring for mounting around my E3D hotend. I should have the wiring done today, then on to working on a mount that doesn't look like garbage (a challenge for me haha). My best idea so far is to make a super simple mount that clamps on to the ring at one point then attaches to the X axis carriage. Will post once I finish up.

Super nice setup man, congrats.

 

Thanks SoLong, I want to put some LED strips in mine too. Maybe blue. I thing your going to love your lighted extruder. I want to get a handle on this 3D printing ASAP and the lights are allowing me to tune and see results as soon as they happen. A small webcam may be next so I don't have to keep sticking my head in the machine

Mike, come on man, Thingverse? that's the enemy I would put it on Makable if they ever get it running

 

I am looking to put some lighting directly on the print area - where the filament is coming out to better see what's going on.


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Peter,
Another idea for lights - these white LED modules are 10 for $10 including shipping if you have amazon prime.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B2HK0LY?ie=UTF8&seller=A3UYUTM4BYYNKB&sn=LEDJUMP®
They connect directly to the 12v supply*. I share the 12V with my E3D fan. The string is all wired in parallel so you can cut one or more out. I have only have one attached to an extension mod of my E3D fan duct and it completely lights the print head and print area with a very bright white light. They have double-sided sticky tape on the back.


You can take all the extra modules and blindingly light up the inside case of the Robo!

*No need to bother with Ohm's law.

 

Enemy or not it's got a lot of stuff on it. There's also Ultimakers YouMagine

 

Here's a taste of what I'm working on. Customized this mount that someone made for a Printrbot to work with the R1 and E3D. Then I have two 16" RGB LED strips that will mount on the underside of the top of the case and a strip that will mount down below with the electronics (I have my R1 up on risers for Tony's modified XXL LCD Controller case so a glow will come from under the machine). Planning on controlling the strips with an Arduino Pro Mini doe automated color changes (changing to a certain color when a print finishes, etc.) and a remote for on the fly color changes. Planning on finishing the wiring this weekend. Here's a pic of the mount for the white LED ring that goes around the hotend:

 

you may need sunglasses with that set up nice job

 

Definitely want a detailed write up on this one! I would love to know when a print is finished! Also, how in the heck do you do on the fly color changes?

 

Knowing when a print is finished is really easy. Just insert the M80 G code command in your startup script and M81 in the Finish script. This will assert the RAMPS PS_ON pin low (0V) after startup and high (5V) after the print completes. You can then use this 5V logic signal to control anything you want like an LED or even an air horn!

There is a convenient Ground pin on the other side of the reset button from the PS_ON pin.


I use PS_ON to control an opto-isolated relay module to shut down the printer when a print finishes. Tonycstech found this cheap $3 module on Amazon: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Channel-O...gger-5V-Arduino-Screw-Terminals-/321302844794 that works great. We just added a second power switch that shorts out the relay. Just toggle the switch on/off to turn on the Arduino which activates the relay and turns on the printer initially. After the print completes it magically completely shuts down if an LCD controller is used or just shuts down the 12V PSU if the USB port is still providing power.

• The G-c0de startup script contains:

M80 ;Turn on P_ON -Pin goes to GND (not really needed because this is the default)
G4 P5000 ; wait 5 seconds for 12V supply to ramp up if USB is connected.

• The G-code finish script contains:

M81 ; Turn off P_ON - Pin goes to 5V​

 

If you have and LCD controller it you could use an Arduino or cheap Teensy to snoop the G code being sent and create all the crazy on the fly context driven color and sound effects you want. Add a wifi or blue tooth module to send an alert or email to your phone what layer is printing. This is not going overboard is it?

 

Ahhhhhaahaha!!!!

This week, I tweeted that I wanted an SMS message when my print was done!

GPIO > R Pi to Twillio > My phone! You just gave me next month's hacker project!

 

Steve nailed it. I'm using an Arduino Pro Mini and a infrared (detector) LED and my TV's remote control to change colors on the fly. I have my television remote controlling all the lights in my room, my coffee maker, pretty much everything haha. All I did was pick buttons I never use with the actual TV and record the infrared codes coming out and program them to either flip IO pins high/low or fire relays. God I love Arduino.

I'll definitely post a detailed write up once I finish.

 

This one is also nice and the price is really okay:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2pcs...r-BMW-E30-E32-E34-E36-E39-E46/1481165060.html

 

40mm is a bit small; it will definitely fit most hotends but will be a bit of a snug fit. Here's a link to the one I used: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q946RQ/ref=oh_details_o02_s01_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Can you start a thread with this info? Really good stuff here.

 

I have a post I've been slowly working on talking about accessing the really powerful and completely under-utilized ATmega 2560 and RAMPs shield, but I have barely anything done. I'll second Mike's request Steve, post a write up about it.