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Community Favorite Marlin 1.1.7 Release for Robo R1, R1+PLUS & Variants

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by WheresWaldo, May 4, 2017.

  1. anngeelow81

    anngeelow81 Member

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    i dont know about anyone else, but i configured this ubl manually with both mesh and abl, and with probably 5 to 8 hours of printing a day since waldo threw it up here on average, ive had one failure to chooch and it was my fault with temps on tryna print nylon at pla temps.
     
  2. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Thanks @anngeelow81 I haven't touched my Robo in two weeks, been too busy playing with Marlin on a different printer. Glad to know that it works.
     
  3. anngeelow81

    anngeelow81 Member

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    to touch on it a little more, was in a rush earlier and just wanted to throw that out there. this one has fixed all issues and little missed stuff from 1.1.0 on. its been flawless, all options that would randomly go missing (example being able to adjust bed temp thru controller). attached a propeller i printed. .2 layer, granted i have an e3d titan with 0.9 stepper.
     

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  4. Ed Ferguson

    Ed Ferguson Active Member

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    anngeelow - Thanks for the feedback. Been waiting for UBL changes to settle down and so I'm going to try 1.1.4 on my R1+. Can you share your start code? I want to be sure I'm not making it more complex than it needs to be.
     
    #124 Ed Ferguson, Jul 19, 2017
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2017
  5. anngeelow81

    anngeelow81 Member

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    My Startup code (as a heads up, last week of summer for the kids, so my printer is currently in auto bed leveling)

    M107;fans off
    M140 S{print_bed_temperature}
    M104 S{print_temperature}
    G21
    G90 ;absolute positioning
    M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
    G28 ;move X/Y/Z to min endstops
    G29 ;run auto-level routine
    G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
    G109 S{print_temperature} ;set extruder temperature and wait
    G190 S{print_bed_temperature) ;set bed temperature and wait
    M420 S1; to activate bed leveling
    M117;put printing message on LCD
     
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  6. Doug Meek

    Doug Meek Member

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    I'm trying 1.1.4 UBL on my R1+ and the mesh creation (auto probing, I have an IR sensor) went fine, printed out a test validation print (G26 B55 H202 F1.75 L0.2 N0.4) and the mesh is pretty close so I thought I would try printing something. It is printing in the air (like 10mm above the bed) and it seems that changing the z offset makes little to no difference. Anybody have any ideas? I started with the Plus files Waldo uploaded and added in changes for my filament out sensor otherwise it is unchanged.

    I followed these steps...

    M502 ; Reset settings to configuration defaults...
    M500 ; ...and Save to EEPROM. Use this on a new install.
    M501 ; Read back in the saved EEPROM.

    M190 S65 ; Not required, but having the printer at temperature helps accuracy
    M104 S210 ; Not required, but having the printer at temperature helps accuracy

    G28 ; Home XYZ.
    G29 P1 ; Do automated probing of the bed.

    G29 T ; View the Z compensation values.
    G29 S1 ; Save UBL mesh points to EEPROM.
    G29 F 10.0 ; Set Fade Height for correction at 10.0 mm.
    G29 A ; Activate the UBL System.
    M500 ; Save current setup. WARNING: UBL will be active at power up, before any `G28`
     
  7. anngeelow81

    anngeelow81 Member

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    ive had this issue before, and literally the only thing that i could find that caused it was flashing the firmware while the machine was off. i dont know if itll help you, but its worth a shot. i always have and now always will flash it while off, but for some reason i had been lazy for a while and wasnt turning it off. then problems arose.
     
  8. Joehsmash

    Joehsmash Member

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    i am just in the process of getting this working, i am curious Doug where did you find the code G29 F 10.0, i cant find it any where or even what its for.

    second thing did either of you (Doug Meek or anngeelow81) have to adjust the initial z offset? a simple M851 gives mine at -1.0 which drives my nozzle into the print bed. i am in the process now of getting everything leveled out now.

    how ever so far its been pretty seamless.
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    IIRC the new Z offset numbers are positive, not negative... but I am not using that flavor of Marlin yet so Your Mileage May Vary
     
  10. Joehsmash

    Joehsmash Member

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    This is also what i thought, that all numbers had to be positive, how ever with a new firmware flash. a M502, M500 than a G29 P1, M851 is reporting that its -1.0. I have been manually adjusting the z offset (started at 0, than 0.5,0.75,0.9, currently im printing 1.0) the layer heights are improving, how ever i never got any filament to show up on the bed until it was around.5
     
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  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The old M565 had the numbers negative (and the heated discussions amongst the marlin developers was ... entertaining).
    They then switched (Viva Anarchy) to positive numbers when they ditched M565 :)
     
  12. Joehsmash

    Joehsmash Member

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    im not even going to try and pretend that i know more than you....Obviously i dont how ever thats just what was reported when i did the firmware flash. ive never once assigned a -1.0 offset before so it was clearly something else.

    With that said tho ive been having a hell of a time trying to level out this bed to get a decent first layer. i started with MESH and it was kind of a night mare for me. After figuring out that my bed bearings were loose in the pillow blocks and were allowing movement in the bed, to a clog, to a loose nozzle.. its been a long couple weeks and a whole bunch of tear downs. i decided to try 1.1.4, it took a little to get going but was actually over all a pretty easy process.
     

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  13. Doug Meek

    Doug Meek Member

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    From here..... http://marlinfw.org/docs/features/unified_bed_leveling.html

    Are you using UBL?
     
  14. Joehsmash

    Joehsmash Member

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    Yes im using it, i currently just trying to dial in the first layer. i had it pretty solid with an extruder temp at 220, and a bed temp at 95, how ever ive since lowered the bed temp and im getting some layer issues. so im just experimenting right now with layer heights
     
  15. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @Joehsmash The nice thing about UBL is that it allow you to save different meshes in slots (G29 Snn where nn is the slot you want to save the mesh in). If you use something like Simplify3D that allows post processing after the g-code is created or different start up scripts you can issue G29 Lnn where the nn is the slot the mesh is saved in. This would completely compensate for different warping of the bed at different temperatures.
     
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  16. anngeelow81

    anngeelow81 Member

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    I've always issued a M851 Z-X.XX. Currently that being Z-0.25. I must have a missed that going into the negatives doesn't work.

    The way I figure out my height needed, and this may be all wrong so take it with a grain of salt, is I heat to temp and home the extruder (home being bottom left corner). Then I bring the nozzle down to the 'zero' on the Z access then issue an M84 to release the motors. I slide the carriage across the bed manually and adjust either side of the Z lead screw til it's all roughly the same height. I'll start the print, ABL will do it's measuring, and then I'll fine tune it with baby z offset option during that print. Once I've gotten that perfect, I take the numbers I either went up or down on baby z offset, I cancel print, close out cura completely, go back into it causing the printer to obviously resync and restart, I take the baby z amount and enter it into eeprom with the M851 ZX.XX command, hit M500, M501, and print and I can just walk away and come back and get my print. And as long as I don't mess with the printer while it's powered off, the printer will maintain its perfect height.
     
  17. Robert55

    Robert55 Member

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    Has anybody noticed we now have a "Change Filament" function that shows up on the "Prepare" and "Tune" LCD controller menus in this firmware version?? Works pretty good - homes the X and Y axis while leaving the extruder at temperature, retracts the filament, and waits for you to load. Then it gives you the option to "Extrude More" - if you're changing colors, for a purge, or "Resume Print". Pretty slick.
     
  18. Ed Ferguson

    Ed Ferguson Active Member

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    Not sure where this falls into the discussion, but FWIW, here's a quote from Roxy (July 2017):

    "The 'right' way to set your Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER is to do it with no bed leveling active. I prefer to do it at the center of the bed. And I also prefer to home the Z-Axis at the center of the bed.

    Once you can print a small object at the center of the bed... Then... And only then... does it make sense to start building the UBL mesh and bringing up the system."
     
  19. Robert55

    Robert55 Member

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    I agree for setting up bed leveling, homing should be at the center of the bed.I use S3D for slicing, sometimes with multiple processes. When it switches processes, it homes the hot end. In that case, I prefer to home to 0,0,0 so it doesn't contact the print. I came in with my comment on "Filament Change" option because I had not seen that very welcome feature in the Marlin Firmware before.
     
  20. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    The only reason I don't like homing in the middle of the bed is that there is a lot more flex in the center and that makes the offset too big around the edges of the bed. I can't remember if I changed where this build homes Z. If I did change it there is only two lines that need to change and it is a divisor in both of them. Default is dived by 2 and I think I dived by 10.
     

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