Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by WheresWaldo, Jun 11, 2015.
I didn't report this since I don't use ABL so I couldn't even tell you what's different in RC7.
Tom has a new video on firmware basics that might help some of the folks reading this thread understand some basics if you haven't gotten your feet wet reading firmware yet.
I have problem with temperature when printing with 0.1mm layer height. The actual temp was lower than target temp when printing 2nd layer and above. Another layer heights print normally.
Anyone has problem with 0.1mm layer height temperature? Installed firmware is RC7.
Temperature should not be affected by layer height. Are you sure it wasn't a cooling issue? Were you running a parts fan at the time?
I just searched the issues for anything related to temperature or layer height and cannot find a single one that is even remotely related to what you may be experiencing.
Yup I'm using fan for cooling. It seems, first layer still provided target temp but 2nd layer and above the temp descending for a while and up again. The temp difference is 10C between target temp and when the temp descending. It happens after I changed the 8mm lead screws, flashed with Z steps at 1600. Oh, and sometimes before my printer give me halted randomly.
Just run extruder autotune PID Tuning. Now printing for 12 minutes, looks fine.
Still not work properly, but now noticed if I detach 1 hotend cooling fan (I run 2 cooling fans for hotend) then I raise the extruder temp it works normally.
Here is what I got (picture) when I used 2 cooling fans then I raise the extruder temp while printing.
Using 2 0.18A fans, do both too big in Ampere for a extruder cooling fans?
Do you have a pic of your fan setup? Also I assume you are printing a fair amount slower than at higher layer heights.
Just 2 fans blowing from front and rear, I will take a picture later.
I'm printing 0.1mm at 1600mm/min, is this too slow or too fast?
~27mm/sec is good. I just wonder if your fan setup is blowing too much air on the hotend. Not sure if the slower speed is making that a difference. Did you print at .1 prior to RC7 ok? Could tell the slicer to run the fans under 100%. Does the temp still vary when you just heat up the hotend and turn the fans on without printing keeping the print head stationary?
You are right, I changed my fans that blow to the extruder with the slower one and run at 100%. Now I print without any warning (cross fingers )
Temp still vary (10C difference) but now no warning.
Change to a 40w heater core and forgot about it.
You want a 12V 40W 6x20 mm heater cartridge. They have 30mm length as well, but the block is only 20mm wide.
Finally decided to make the switch to a E3D V6 after a year and a half of using the hexagon, so since I'm uploading new firmware I'll give this a shot. Decided to switch to a E3D Titan extruder as well so I've made all the changes to the RC7 firmware for those two parts. Hoping this and the new parts will make for a decent upgrade to speed and quality. I know Marlin 1.1 made a world of difference on my Delta but that may be due to all the enhancements they made for Delta.
Finished the Titan/E3DV6 install this weekend and tried out both firmwares. For some reason I was just having hell with ABL and had never tried MESH. Uploaded the MESH and followed instructions for clearing EEPROM then leveling the bed. Although I had a weird issue with the leveling. I went to go print and the print head started 3-4 mm above the bed on the left then dragged a bit towards the right side of the bed. I used a piece of paper during the level and set it to where the paper just barely dragged the nozzle for each point. Is there something I'm doing wrong or could do better?
Did you save memory after the leveling procedure. If you do a G29 from a terminal screen it will tell you if MESH is enabled.
Yes, I happened to try a "Store Memory" on the LCD and a M500 to store it. I also verified that it showed me all of the points by doing a G29.
That behavior, from the description seems like the Z Axis endstop was already triggered when on the left side of the bed during that print. Otherwise I can't give you much in the way of suggestions.
Thanks @WheresWaldo I happened to be home for lunch and took a second look at it. I'm thinking that I will need to have the left and right holders for the Z-Axis pretty close to level. The x-carriage is about 1/2 the weight of the stock one so it lifts off the end stops much easier. If it is off level, due to the weight of the stepper on the right side of the Z-axis, then the left side kinda just "floats" releasing the end stop. Going to give it another shot today after work and see if it helps with ABL or MESH.
Yeah, the Mendel design has a lot of flaws, but it is what it is. I noticed a long time ago that the Z axis teeters on the nozzle while leveling. I gave up on Auto bed leveling a long time ago because of this and other issues. While it might not be necessary on other style printers, on the Robo you must start out fairly level or ABL just doesn't work as expected. Kind of defeats the purpose of autolevel if it has to be level to start with.
I've found it only has to be close to level, but you do need to be close or it does not work well. My biggest gripe now that I have some time and lots of prints on my machine is that the y axis is not as well supported as it could be. I get side to side and up down wobble and it seems to eat LM8UU bearings, I'm one my second replacement set. First set died prematurely by spitting out the balls first time I needed to remove the rods.