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Marlin for the R2 - UBL Enabled

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by WheresWaldo, Sep 8, 2017.

?

Would you like to see U.B.L. enabled for the R2?

  1. Of course!

    20 vote(s)
    95.2%
  2. Not really.

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  3. Why are you wasting your time with this?

    1 vote(s)
    4.8%
  1. adikted2astro

    adikted2astro Active Member

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    Adjust your z-offset first, after M500. I don't use the z-offset wizard, I just put the hotend in the middle of the bed, issue G1 Z0 to bring the bed up until the IR sensor is triggered, then increase the height of the bed in 1mm and 0.1 mm increments (counting how far up it goes) until my feeler gauge fits just under the nozzle (feeler gauge thickness is 0.102 mm). Once I know this number (in my case it was 6.10 mm), I issue M206 Z6.10 to set the offset.

    I heat the hotend up as well, before G29 P1. Not necessarily all the way, but close. So, if I'm going to print with ABS, I'll heat the hotend up to 200 C, and the bed to 80 C, then issue G29 P1.
     
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  2. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    Got myself into a jam. Seems Waldo has his baudrate in the source code quite high 250000 and it caused me comm issues with the printer. But I can’t send the firmware with the 115200 to the printer before it times out
    :-(

    put it on a USB stick, click the file, the firmware wizard comes up, but I can never click the Start button to start the update...





    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
     
  3. adikted2astro

    adikted2astro Active Member

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    Not sure what to do there. I was always able to update the firmware just fine in octoprint. You should be able to disconnect from the printer in octoprint, then change the baud rate with the drop down.
     
  4. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    that worked... now to figure out why my case LED mods are not working in this firmware. Maybe different pin....
     
  5. adikted2astro

    adikted2astro Active Member

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    Odd. But it sounds like you wired your case lights to come on and off in the software. I just wired mine directly to the board so they come on when I turn the printer on.
     
  6. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    OK, may be specific for my setup, but once Robo started to have the CASE LED PIN assigned to pin 5, I needed to make some changes in the pins_ROBOMB.h file in Waldo's dist.
    Specifically:

    //
    // Misc. Functions
    //
    #define SDSS 53
    #define LED_PIN 13 // [BH] robo default was 13
    #define CASE_LIGHT_PIN 5 // MUST BE HARDWARE PWM (2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 44, 45)


    -----

    Also, @adikted2astro, I went into the eeprom, loaded the default, saved it to eeprom, and then I went into the eeprom editor and changed a few things like e-step per unit, and the max acceleration (which is way slow in Waldo's repository for my liking). I also set the z-home offset and the pid values to what they were before.
     
    #126 supercazzola, May 4, 2018
    Last edited: May 4, 2018
  7. adikted2astro

    adikted2astro Active Member

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    Yeah I never messed with that. I honestly have no need to turn off the lights until I shut the printer down anyway (which I do every day). Besides, it looks pretty cool just sitting there with the lights on.
     
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  8. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    @WheresWaldo why in the firmware i compiled from your repository, the home command doesn't bring the bed down, like in the stock firmware, but rather brings the bed up (as if I issued the G1 Z0 command )????
     
  9. adikted2astro

    adikted2astro Active Member

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    Because the home position assigned in his code brings the bed up. Trust me it's better. You don't have to wait for the bed to come up every time you want to start a print. It will take some getting used to though.
     
  10. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    ah, ok, missed that....
     
  11. adikted2astro

    adikted2astro Active Member

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    You can change it if you want to, but I recommend leaving it. However, you will have to add some lines in your Gcode scripts. Specifically 'after a print job completes' and 'after a print job is cancelled'. So, in octoprint after the G28 X0 Y0 command, put in something like G1 Z200. This will drop the bed down 200 mm when the print is done or when it's cancelled. But, if there is a G28 Z0 command in there, get rid of it, or put the G1 Z200 command after G28 Z0. Otherwise, the bed will drop 200 mm, then immediately come back up.
     
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  12. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    thanks for the help, I hope Waldo doesn't mind. We can always ask an admin to move this to troubleshooting. But in the end, I am editing my post for a step by step guide (even for a dummy like me).
    Which brings up my next question: I can't get the z-offset to stay. I am not using the z-offset wizard, but doing like you with the G1 Z0, and then manually moving the bed up and getting the value, and then placing it in the M206 Zn.nn command. What am I missing ? See
    Post #120
    for the steps I did... (editing that post in real time).
    thanks
     
  13. adikted2astro

    adikted2astro Active Member

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    After you set it with M206, issue a M500 to save to EEprom. If you are paranoid like I am (I do this every time I change z-offset), then click on settings in octoprint, go down to EEprom Marlin Editor Plugin, click on Load EEprom and go down to z-offset and see if it is changed. If not, change it in that editor, and click Save to EEprom. I'm fairly OCD, so I always click Save to EEprom 3 times, even if I don't have to change the offset in the editor.

    :)
     
  14. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    @adikted2astro @WheresWaldo So if I just display the Z value using M206 when I have the feeler gauge just right, it shows the proper value Z:-4.40

    But when I then use the M206 command to set the offset, per the instructions, M206 Z4.40 , it echoes back that Z:0

    So when I do the M500, it wants to save a zero. Do I need to move the bed back home before saving it?



    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
     
    #134 supercazzola, May 4, 2018
    Last edited: May 4, 2018
  15. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    No when you issue the command M206 Z4.40, you just told the printer that your -4.40 is now really zero. and M206 displays what it thinks your Z height is at not what the offset is. If you want to see the offset issue an M503 that will show you not where you are but rather what the home offset is set to.

    I am fine with all that back and forth, it may help others too.

    Rationale for some settings, I personally think homing at the bottom is stupid and a waste of time, that is why I home at the top. The acceleration numbers are so low because any faster and you get ringing on details. I hate ringing and I would rather be a bit slower than suffer that particular surface irregularity. My case lights use the mod that is in the mod section so it is not attached to where the Robo lights are attached, that is why I am using a different pin, feel free to change it to any pin you want that meets the PWM requirement. Robo uses 115200 instead of 250000 baud because they are afraid. I have pointed them to documentation that shows 250000 has no issues, but they ignored it. 250000 is the recommended baud rate used by Gina Häußge and she wrote the application, I would put money on her default being a better choice. You just have to make sure your connect section is also set to 250000 baud.

    I use the firmware flasher plugin all the time and it works perfectly at 250000 baud also.
     
  16. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    OK, but when I do it shows me a +4.40 for a z home offset, and I was expecting a -4.40... somewhere in this thread, it states to take the positive value. just curious why, since in the old firmware, the values were negative.
     
  17. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    You cannot compare old and new firmwares that use different mechanisms to auto-level, it is a Marlin thing. If you really want to know why ask their developers.

    If you look at it like a MATH problem, your printer with no offset thinks it is at -4.4 mm and you want it to think it is at 0 mm instead, so -4.4 mm + 4.4 mm = 0 mm, see simple math. That is likely how Marlin developers envisioned it.
     
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  18. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    Makes perfect sense. I think you mentioned you never could get the G26 to work. Mine just prints in the air, no matter what I do. It appears the lower the bed a bit.

    So after I set the z home offset, and save it with M500, I will slice and load your STL file, and measure the dots and adjust the points.

    Thanks to you and adikted2astro for being so patient with me. I hope my step by step summary post above will help out some other person. I will keep editing it until it is perfect.

    Doesn’t seem to be too many of us R2 owners running UBL.

    I know there are several changes to make to octoprint scripts due to home being the z-min, needing to load the grid, etc... so I will go back over the 100+ entries in this thread and hopefully get it right.

    THANKS AGAIN for all of your help.



    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
     
  19. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    @WheresWaldo @adikted2astro next observations / questions:

    Seems the G28 command brings the home back to the left rear corner (X,Y,Z) = (19, 148, 7.4). The Z for me is the offset (4.4, plus the 3mm it always seems to be below zero value when the home command is issued).

    anyway, when I go to start the autoprobe, I start it right after the G28 command, and I notice that the 5x5 grid it is probing is not centered in the print bed, but is shifted so that the corner is in the left rear (meaning it doesn't ever probe on the right side and front of the R2 bed). Wouldn't we want this to be probing in a way that captures the center of the probe area, as the center of the bed?

    Also, in the old stock firmware, my z-offset was -7.4 and it can't be a coincidence that my calculated difference between where the probe stops and zero (4.4) and this 3 mm totals to 7.4 mm... Just checking if this is similar for you guys?
     
  20. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    You can change the grid to whatever you want I chose 5 x 5 since it covers nearly all the bed. With regard to the far right side, remember the nozzle is NOT the probe, the probe is the IR sensor which sits behind and to the right of the bed. the probe points are offset to account for where the sensor is. Honestly it has been a couple of months since I probed the bed. Default Marlin behavior for homing is to home directly in the center of the X and Y axis, I changed it to the back corner to be closer to the first probe point and to slightly speed up the homing command. If you want it to home back in the middle, just change the following lines in Configuration.h:
    Code:
      #define Z_SAFE_HOMING_X_POINT ((X_BED_SIZE) / 8)    // X point for Z homing when homing all axes (G28).  [BH]
      #define Z_SAFE_HOMING_Y_POINT (((Y_BED_SIZE) - (Y_BED_SIZE) / 8))    // Y point for Z homing when homing all axes (G28).  [BH] left rear of bed.
    The two divide by 8 parameters if changed to divide by 2 will put it back in the center.
     

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