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Opinions on best slicer/user interface for robo3d

Discussion in 'Software' started by Mbisjr23, May 6, 2015.

  1. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Hi Sheila,
    Your fighting the buildtak it sounds like :D To close and it sticks soo hard, to far away and it wont stick and warp. Non heated beds make it worse but is fixable. Simplify 3D will not fix that issue. I would suggest cleaning the build tak with some iso alcohol (lightly wipe) and increase your z offset if its sticking to hard.

    Please feel free to start a new thread in the C2 section with pictures of your first layer if possible and we can get you rolling :D
     
  2. Sheila Griffith

    Sheila Griffith New Member

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    Thanks so much for your help Geof. I will take a couple of pictures and begin a new section once i do so but first i have to ask a stupid question. I only know of buildtak as a print plate cover to assist in sticking issues and have been considering purchasing it because of these issues I've been discussing. Your comment about "cleaning the build tak with some iso alcohol..." leads me to wonder if you refer to something other than that as build tak or if the standard plate covers included with Robo3d printers is actually made of build tak.

    So my stupid question is to what do you refer when you say "build tak?" If the included covers are actually build tak I already use iso alcohol on those, and have also resorted to roughing up the surface with a wire type brush as well as applying stick glue to the surface. Despite doing all of those things i am continuing to have the issues i first mentioned. The z offset may be an issue. I usually set it so that a piece of standard typing paper slides back and forth easily but you are able to feel the extruder contacting it. Should it be higher or lower than that for standard PLA printing? Also is there anything in particular i need to do to assure the print bed is level on a C2 or is it automatically leveled?

    Thanks again and i will begin a new thread once i have made the changes you suggest and get a sample print.
     
    #22 Sheila Griffith, Oct 9, 2017
    Last edited: Oct 9, 2017
  3. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Hi Sheila,
    The tape is a "buildtak like" sheet but care for it can be done the same IMO. Wipe it down with some ISO and if that doesn't work replace it. You can absolutely replace it with buildtak, I see no reason why you wouldn't be able to. As far as the wire brush, I skuff my buildtak with the rough side of a green and yellow kitchen sponge then clean and it adheres very well.

    Setting your Z Offset-

    What your looking for is a perfect 1st layer so you will likely need to adjust your z offset based off your first layer, you dont want the nozzle digging into the bed, but you do want a nice first layer. Some reading material with some pictures :
    https://printedsolid.com/blogs/news/37035715-get-your-prints-to-stick-check-your-skirt

    Once you get that perfect first layer you should not see the warping. If you do I'd check for drafts that are affecting the print (cooling the plastic to fast). I believe in the C2 section there is a mod someone has done where there is a removable front door for similar issues.
     
  4. Jerry Normandin

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    My favorite slicer is Simplify3d
    Worth the money.
    I will post my RosBot Rover chassis when done.

    Next project is a 3dlabprint r/c airplane. I am also working on plans for a drone UFO that uses one central turbine and manuvers by the Coriolis Effect.

    The prints even at medium resolution look awesome.


     

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