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power consumption

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by collin, Sep 12, 2014.

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  1. collin

    collin New Member

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    Wow i got a huge amount of feed back on this thread :eek:
    Im glad i could get different but agreeing perspectives on the subject.
    with this information i need to do a little investigating as to the new power sucker.
    glad its not the printer, no way i was giving up long prints.



    additional subject matter.

    I know there are mechanical off switches for the robo combined with software changes, but I dont like adding more mechanical switches. honestly Mechanical switches make me nervous. annnnnnyways is there a non-mechanical switch option to turn off the printer post print?
     
  2. SteveC

    SteveC Well-Known Member

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    Last year I installed a relay based auto off that works great. It uses an opto-isolated 5V logic controlled relay module and some start and stop gcode.

    The relay is something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Docooler-Acti...=1391293856&sr=8-24&keywords=arduino+5v+relay but I got mine from ebay. You may have to play with the logic polarity depending on the module.

    • The G-c0de startup script then contains:
    M80 ;Turn on P_ON - Pin goes to GND
    G4 P5000 ; wait 5 seconds​
    • The G-code finish script contains:
    M81 ; Turn off P_ON - Pin goes to 5V​

    Just add a second power switch to short across the relay. Toggle it on and off to turn on the printer. The finish gcode will turn it off. If you have an LCD controller you can have it beep annoyingly before it shuts down. There is a long thread on the forum from last year by Tonycs and me.

    I have a Plugin-Prius and definitely have Tesla envy!
     
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  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Attached is a photo of ours, but it is an 2010 Roadster, not the new model S.
     

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  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I love this. I need to add that to my list of projects :)
     
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  5. SteveC

    SteveC Well-Known Member

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    I would post a photo of my wife's electric car but ... well ... it's a Priuso_O. Actually when running on the battery I love driving it, but after 12 miles the engine turns on and it's not so good. I couldn't even convince her to get a red one.
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    For most commuting (normal commuting) the electric range on the Prius is OK. One of the college professors I was talking to hasn't added gas in, like, a year... but he lives close to where he works. For me it is a 12 mile ride just to get to civilization :) (and the nearest gas station) I needed more range. The 250-ish on the Roadster is not bad, but I lust for the 300+ they have on the new ones.

    The main people shuffler is getting old enough now that as soon as it dies I will replace it with whatever they have at the time (S, X, whatever). I have been quite pleased with the product and their service.

    We have enough charging stations (ChargePoint) around that even if the range we shorter it would still work (now if only they will expand the supercharger network--none of those are close). Frankly can't remember the last time we actually used a public charging station, but it is comforting to know that they are there.

    Red was all they had left (oh, the horror).
     
  7. collin

    collin New Member

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    can you link the thread discussing this?
     
  8. collin

    collin New Member

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    same defiantly.
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  10. SteveC

    SteveC Well-Known Member

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    OK it is this thread http://forums.robo3dprinter.com/ind...-down-when-print-is-finished.1620/#post-11868 but it is a mess. A lot of it is me clarifying things and warning to switch the hot wire and not the return. The hookup is really simple. Put the relay in the hot path. Put a second toggle power switch across the relay. The relay logic and ground goes to P_ON and a GND on the RAMPS board. Get the logic polarity right for your isolated relay and you are good. Many of the isolated relays have a selectable polarity. These relays have a pretty small current draw from the Arduino's 5V regulator. While I was in there I replaced and recrimped all the lugs to the power supply and the fuse/switch module. The stock power switch is usually on but can be used to override the relay if needed. You can post further questions on that thread if you want.
     
  11. collin

    collin New Member

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    wow thats a mouth full. I can defiantly see this being a standard mod at some point. Would someone want to write a short guild for the mods threads? not just because it would be useful others but because im infinitely lazy.
     
  12. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    SteveC do you know if there's a way to force the power supply to shut off at the same time the Extruder Cooling Fans 50C shutoff is hit?

    Code:
    // Extruder cooling fans
    // Configure fan pin outputs to automatically turn on/off when the associated
    // extruder temperature is above/below EXTRUDER_AUTO_FAN_TEMPERATURE.
    // Multiple extruders can be assigned to the same pin in which case
    // the fan will turn on when any selected extruder is above the threshold.
    #define EXTRUDER_0_AUTO_FAN_PIN   -1
    #define EXTRUDER_1_AUTO_FAN_PIN   11
    #define EXTRUDER_2_AUTO_FAN_PIN   -1
    #define EXTRUDER_AUTO_FAN_TEMPERATURE 50
    #define EXTRUDER_AUTO_FAN_SPEED   255  // == full speed
     
  13. Ziggy

    Ziggy Moderator
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    Simple solution is use the same pin as the fan control pin
     
  14. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    So you run PS_on to enable the cooling fan, and then once the extruder_auto_fan kicks off it'll shut off the power supply?

    I guess I'd prefer them to be isolated so I can do manual controls without needing the cooling fan enabled.
     
  15. SteveC

    SteveC Well-Known Member

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    Sorry guys I'm a bit behind here. I see the extruder cooling fan logic in temperature.cpp and that EXTRUDER_AUTO_FAN_TEMPERATURE is checked in checkExtruderAutoFans(). You certainly manually can toggle P_ON in that logic.

    Can you rephrase "run PS_on to enable the cooling fan" for me? I don't get it. The cooling fan output is PWMed. P_ON is a logic level output.

    Are you thinking about using the extruder temp to kill the PSU? To avoid the end gcode? Why?
     
  16. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    That code I copied is from configuration_adv.h.

    Here's how I want it to work:

    Ramps/Arduino is powered off 5v from either USB or a 5v psu.

    Have the PS_On be called from one of the following, Power Supply On from the LCD, Startup G-code, and Manually for jogging/pre-heat.

    After the print finishes, allow the power supply to stay on until the extruder auto-fans shut off at 50C. At this point shut off the main power.

    I'm still trying to wrap my mind around all this so please excuse any fuzziness.
     
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  17. collin

    collin New Member

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    Last night i came to the conclusion that the printer must cool off before being turned off(all of you know that already im sure but im still a noob)
    I think mike is on to something. like i said before we should get his figured out then written up into a guild.
     
  18. SteveC

    SteveC Well-Known Member

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    OK, got it. You want to AND in that the extruder temperature is below 50C before shutting down. That should be very easy but it would require a branch of the firmware.

    That said, I have had a V5 E3D with this setup since last January and never had a problem with not waiting for the extruder to cool down before killing the PSU.
     
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  19. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    I guess I could just go for a dumb approach and just do a time delay
     
  20. collin

    collin New Member

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    Ha ha that's honestly not a bad approach the cool down process is pretty consistent in my experience.
     
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