Printer arrived, no power at all

Went through the unboxing and and setup video, set the power supply voltage to 115, plugged it in, and nothing. Reseated the cable, recheckec the power supply voltage switch, double-checked power was coming from the socket with a known-good power source (my laptop charger). Any ideas?

 

Update: On closer observation, there is a brief response when the power is turned on. I see two flashes of the green LED located near the USB port. When the switch if turned off, about 5 seconds later there is a fainter single pulse from the LED (capacitor discharge?).

 

Update: This was a driver issue on Win 8.1 64-bit. After disabling signed drivers and reinstalling Matter Control, I could still not connect to the printer. I had to go into StaticData/Drivers under the Matter Control dirctory and run the WHQL Certified driver package and the serial_install.exe file with Admin privs. Once i did that, I had to manually connect to Com3 (now showing for the first time) and could the connect to the printer. It's all looking good so far ...

 

Well, I'm a week in, the printer bed is slightly damaged from a part that adhered far too well, and printing the same part using the white ROBO3d filament has decisively jammed the extruder. I'm dead in the water. The sample blue PLA behaved much better than the white. I have heated the extruder to 225 but cannot break through with filament. Any thoughts?

 

Can you try 235? That's the highest you're limited to go.

People have found luck by taking a brass wire from a bristle brush and pushing it through a heated nozzle: http://bukobot.com/nozzle-cleaning Or using a thin gauge guitar wire


When you say your bed is damaged did you knick the acrylic?

 

OK, thanks for the link. Will try a wire cleaning and higher temp.

There are three cuts in the acrylic, two fairly close together and the space between them feels slightly lower by touch. So worse than knicks. They do penetrate the surface layer.

 

At the higher temp there is black material accumulating on the exterior of the nozzle; when wiped away, it returns quickly. The inserted wire also comes out with some black liquid droplets. My original fear in this was that the PTFE was damaged, and from everything I've seen on the Forum this problem matches the description. Where do I go from here?

 

The clogged nozzle, it turns out, has really not been the problem; the blockage is higher up. I have heated to 235 repeatedly, and if I could push PLA through I'd be running. I can't get anything through from either end. At temp, a black liquid accumulates on the nozzle tip -- it can be cleaned off but reappears; that's what has me thinking the PTFE is cooked. A wire inserted into the tip goes about two inches up and stops; ABS, PLA, or a wire inserted from the top also reaches a stopping point. Nothing can pass all the way through from either side. BTW, thanks for the contact with Denys; we have been discussing this but have not yet gotten together.

 

Well, pulled off the hot end and a three-inch coil of white PLA popped out of the top. I'm now back to printing (and have a small amount of confidence in disassembly/reassembly; I always find the latter to be the hard part).

Only hitch now is getting some glass to cover the cuts on the bed so I can use the full surface. Is it possible to purchase a new bed?

 

You can purchase a new bed from team robo. Contact them here for the link: http://www.robo3dprinter.com/pages/technical-support

What do you mean there's cuts in your bed? Did you have a PLA only?

 

As I noted above, a large piece adhered so well to the bed that it had to be cut and pried off, leaving three deep cuts in it. Yes, PLA only. It was quite impressively stuck.

 

Yeah if you buy the glass bed you could just replace your acrylic and then have the ABS version