Printing with abs

Never a fan with ABS. Never*. No air movement anywhere around the printer.



*maybe when bridging... maybe.

 

There is no magic sauce.
Everyone finds a way that works. Some people go overboard and end up having to damage the glass to get the prints off.

Suggested ideas to try (with small test prints):
1) blue tape (with or without gluestick)
2) hairspray on the glass
3) some magic chemical : For ABS WolfBite or for PLA Wolfbite Nano

I have no issues using hairspray (Aquanet) on the bare glass, but whatever works for you.

(I tested both of the Wolfbite products and they seem to work as advertised, I just didn't need them)

 

ABS wants to curl and warp with temperature variations as it is cooling.
It is by far the worst filament for that type of behavior (even polycarbonate is not as bad).

So, a heated chamber is the ideal solution where you can totally control a slow, general cooldown.
Short of that print as cool as you can and minimize any and all air circulation around the print.

 

I would avoid space heaters. If anything use an IR heat lamp aimed at the model.
However just keeping any air circulation away will help.

Be cautious since the electronics on the Robo are under the bed... if you seal the entire thing up and heat the enclosure you are running the electronics hot too.

@Printed Solid has an enclosure you can strap on the top part that leaves the electronincs open.

www.printedsolid.com

 

Good luck. As much as I talk down about printing ABS I have (in the past) printed a lot of it on the Robo.
TO quote Monty Python "I got better"

You can do it, it is just touchy and more hassle so I use mostly other materials these days.
Lots of better choices.

 

Just as an FYI, ABS also shrinks quite a bit when cooled. Just because LEGO bricks are all so uniform at 31.8 x 15.8 x 11.4 doesn't mean that their molds are carved out to exactly those dimensions. Their advantage is that the mold can be precisely temperature controlled, our environments cannot. Unless there is one specific feature of ABS you absolutely have to have, I usually suggest people move away from ABS and on to other filaments that are easier to work with.

 

Strength and flexibility are better with other styles of filament, texture and finishability are unique to ABS, vapor smoothing is one example of this. But FDM style printers are not the best technology if you are looking for finish like you get from injection molded parts.

 

Nope, if that finish is key look at SLA or better yet, DLP. Glass smooth every time.

 

If you do the ABS slurry also be advised that sticking to the bed is a done deal.
You will likely need a decent razor to get it up.