Answered Problem with my NEW ROBO 3D R1 -.-"

Hi good afternoon,

Ok I have 1 week and a half of receiving my 3D printer R1, at first everything was fine, I printed several things, although not out of the highest quality, I must say that everything was OK.

It turns out that the day yesterday, I try to print the LOGO of my company (one that I am about to open) and is always trying to print something, the lines of print always raised when the nozzle passed over these, to change position, I imagine that could be a problem with my design and that there had been some kind of conflict.

OK This morning proved again, practically re-design my logo and try again and nothing, the impression is always wrong, then I happened to try the items that can be found in the library of MatterControl program (updated on your latest version) and continued having the same problem. aca enclose some photos and videos of the problem that I have, maybe someone can tell me what's going on. (with Auto-Leveling activated and deactivated always the same, low, medium or high quality also feel the same, and sometimes half impression and when I realize, and this not getting melted filament, check the temperature in the program and this is still 210, as it should be, my turn to stop the printing and make the filament and put it back to keep it running -.- "thing which made me lose what I have to take form and start from the beginning

As always, Pre-heat the printer before printing

As always to start warming up, pulls something filament

Whenever I run into the MatterControll to set aside some filament when the temperature is already at 210, to remove obstructions or debris that prevents a good print.


When temperaduta reaches 200 I always give click PRINT. to begin to self-calibrate


Ok now I leave the videos to see the disaster that causes the printer when printing; are 2 videos in 2 different tests to see that always the same problem. pls HELP...

parte 1



Parte 2



and this a photo with the bad print -.-"

 

Start with something small like this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:24238

 

tanks bro i will try right now i comment you what happend tanks

 

and mike if you can pls see my videos. tanks

 

Yeah looking at the video you're just a little bit too low. Remove any leaked filament with a pair of tweezers before it starts.

Also what are you using for adhesion / sticking?

If you're going to print multiple parts in one go you should enable lift on movements.

 

Begin BAD



FINISH ULTRA BAD F*¨***CK



im no using any stick or something. just directly BED?. supposed i technical from robo3D team tell me that is not necesary, and on the instructions they send me, no one mentioned... but if you recomended. pls. let me know

in fact, i think the problem is on the extruder. cause. see the video and you can see whats is the big problem more than the filament get up.

man i really wanna cry man i work too hard all the year for can buy a print and this is happend.

 

and sorry for the bad Quality but im from a 3thr worl wide country and my internet is TOO LOW hahaa.. so i have to compress the videos...

 

Dude just chill out. Everything will be OK, you have a fine printer. It's a learning experience just to know what you're doing. Right now you did the equivalent of jumping into the deep end and not knowing how to swim. Start in the shallow end and build up.

Did you watch the getting started video they include with every printer? It clearly says apply hairspray, glue, or blue painters tape.



Is your hotend fan running?

 

yes is running,

and i understand about that spray and stick but i mean that about the filament stop out from extruder. on half printe. and is not only this time is maybe 60% of my prints

 

really tanks for your time brothers, and im so sorry for my sintaxys of english, my level is not to high yet. but im learning ... and mark can you tellme how can i add an oiler?

 

Wow greate tutorial mark. Tanks a lot.

 

Make sure you clean your hobbed bolt before trying again too. You don't have to take it out, just release the idler (the thing that uses to bolts with springs to press a bearing against the filament and hobbed bolt), heat the hotend to 180C and remove the filament. Use an electric shaver cleaning brush or similar to remove all filament residure/dust/grindings from the hobbed bolt's grooves. Heat the hotend to 230C, dip your filament in some canola oil and push through about 10cm of filament. Pull the filament out, wipe it down, and push through another 10cm (repeat twice). Heat the hotend to printing temp and set the filament up again with your oiler and you're good to go.

Only start with 2 drops of canola oil on your oiler and add another drop if the filament is still dry after 30cm has passed through. Repeat until there's the slightest bit of oil on the filament. If it's too oily it won't stick to the glass bed.

For the best PLA adhesion use 3M Original Blue Painter's Tape. After applying it to the bed you will need to re calibrate your Z height. Print with the bed at 0C and your print fans at 100%. If you have any adhesion issues with the blue tape wipe it down with methylated spirits. This is how you get warp free PLA printing.

 

I forgot to mention. You can also use a pen lid as an oiler just by putting a hole in the end, I'd use one that's 1 to 2cm in diameter. If you don't have sponge you can use some chux kitchen cloth or similar.

 

Tanks Galaxius I trying right now.

 

Well friends. tanks to mike, mark and galaxius. im printing very well. im using glue stick. and im so stupid cause thats is what i need to print. i allready have my logo printed correctly and. the filament is now OK... tanks to all for the help... really make me so happy... at least i can print my Andruino Case´s tanks