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Solved R1 + bed not heating up.

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by robert albrecht, Aug 5, 2019.

  1. robert albrecht

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    Yea I have a new RAMPS board on the way. Should be here tonight. I have the guide book marked ready to go. To make it compatible

    Sent from my Phone 2 using Tapatalk
     
  2. robert albrecht

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    I think I have everything. I just wanted to double check my wiring before I actually do it.
    new RAMPS 1.4 on left and Robo on the right. Jumpers already installed, stepper drivers already installed and heat sink already moved. The only thing I am having an issue picturing is the Z axis motor. I think I didn't get a good look at it. Does that cable split into two bundles of two??
    [​IMG]
     
    #22 robert albrecht, Aug 7, 2019
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2019
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  4. robert albrecht

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    ok I have everything hook up and nothing is working right. (except maybe the hot end heater and the two thermistors.)
    None of the step motors are working. Also whats really weird as as soon as I turn on the printer the bed starts to heat up...

    Do I have to do anything with the software?
    This is how I have everything connected...
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  5. robert albrecht

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    Ok I think I have it figured out now. The green connector at the top the POS and NEG are switched when you have to attach them to the new board so you actually have to take the wires out and put them in the correct position.
     
  6. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Yes polarity matters there, good catch. In the thread I believe it mentions that for the specific board I had bought but it applies to everything on the ramps- red to + black to negative :)
     
  7. robert albrecht

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    how about the print bed heating up. When it shouldn't be?
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Did you put the three jumper on underneath where each of the stepper driver boards plugs in? Each one should have the three jumpers installed under it on the RAMPS board.
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That means the board is probably factory pre-failed for you since the Q3 MOSFET is ON constantly.
    As I have said before (a lot) the individual RAMPS boards are a crap shoot because they are so cheaply made (and inexpensive). They get no QA time at all. Made in China by cheapest source.
     
  10. robert albrecht

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    So my best bet is to get another RAMPS.. should I grab one from a "different" manufacturer?

    Sent from my Phone 2 using Tapatalk
     
  11. BrooklynBay

    BrooklynBay Active Member

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    Check the solder connections on the Q3 MOSFET. Maybe they soldered a couple of pins together because of their lack of quality control.
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    While I did that last time (4 boards all from different places) it probably doesn't matter.
    Might as well try a different one. I'd suggest getting couple and if you have a spare... you have a spare :) Or get one of the all-in-one kits as those have a better record of containing working parts (not to say you couldn't get a bad one there too).

    It is nice that the parts are cheap, but that also has introduced a new set of problems from crappy manufacturing.
     
  13. robert albrecht

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    Got it.. just ordered a new part but I will also double check the solder points. If I can fix it. I will at least have a spare coming.

    Sent from my Phone 2 using Tapatalk
     
    #33 robert albrecht, Aug 8, 2019
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2019
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    :)
    It is disappointing since a couple of years back you could reliably get parts from pretty much anywhere.
    The stepper drivers (mostly using pololu components) have been reliable all along.

    Heck, the Robo's use clone (not official/original) arduino megas and those are fine it is just the RAMPS boards that have gone downhill from quality. There are newer versions (but they are unofficial too) like v1.5 and v.16 but those are also from the same manufacturers so you don't generally get any better quality there either.

    The newer all-in-one 32-bit BOARDS (not the parts kits) like a Rambo, Smoothie, etc. are far better, but cost a lot more. Can you integrate them? Sure, but it is non-trivial so be prepared to rewire everything if you go that route. A days worth of work.

    I have bought a lot of the components over the past 6 years (not all used for printers) and the RAMPS boards are the worst offenders at about a 60/40 success rate.
     
  15. robert albrecht

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    quick question I was looking at the photo I posted earlier. It looks like the heat sink I installed on the MOSFET is touching another MOSFET could that be the issue?
     
  16. BrooklynBay

    BrooklynBay Active Member

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    The heatsink should have a non conductive insert where the screw goes. Was that installed when you connected the heatsink? If not, then this might be the short.
     
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The MOSFET heat sinks are attached to the DRAIN on the MOSFET (electrically speaking).

    Ncm5n.png
    Notice here that while they are a common metal sink they are electrically insulated from that.

    I would keep them apart even though it likely wouldn't matter -- it might.
     
  18. robert albrecht

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    I don't remember seeing a plastic spacer or anything like that..
    I will add it to my check list of things to try when I get home...
     
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The way the MOSFET and heatsinks are mounted on the RAMPS it is likely they saved a fraction of a penny and did not use an insulator.
    So, don't let them touch :) It really should NOT matter because in most circuits the drain is close to (or virtually) ground (refer to the schematic -- heaters and FANS section). But ... you never know. Move them apart.

    RAMPS1_4schematic.png
     
  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Assuming everything were perfect and as drawn on the schematic the drains touching would be moot.
     

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