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Unanswered R1+ Broken hotend?

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by 4sfaloth, Sep 14, 2019.

  1. 4sfaloth

    4sfaloth Member

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    Hi everyone,

    my R1+ printer has been a bit 'temperamental' over the last week, with some failed prints due to extrusion stop mid-print. At first it only happened with a particular filament spool, so I thought it was just a matter of adjusting the parameters for that filament. However, today the printer got fully clogged while printing with one of my most frequenly used spools (with no issues so far). I was unable to pull the filament out just by heating it up to 240º and pulling/pushing, so I followed the quick-release guide to further expose the hotend. Then I was finally able to remove the filament, but it seems to have brought a piece of the hotend with it (please see the pictures below).

    https://i.imgur.com/U8sfx3e.jpg
    https://i.imgur.com/RixzWoa.jpg
    https://i.imgur.com/OOzFv0q.jpg

    Does this mean I need to replace my hotend?
    Thanks in advance
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    >https://i.imgur.com/U8sfx3e.jpg<
    That looks like the upper part of the threading for the heat break.
    New hotend time.

    You can't buy "parts" for the hexagon like you can others (E3D for example) so you need a new hotend.
    (with the E3D you can buy each and every part that goes into it separately)
     
  3. 4sfaloth

    4sfaloth Member

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    damn, that's a bummer :\
    Thanks for your quick reply.

    I see that the part is listed as 'Sold Out' in the official supplier (https://www.partsbuilt.com/r1-hotend-assembly-robo), though it has a very similar one stating that it is for the C2 printer (https://www.partsbuilt.com/hotend-assembly-c2-robo-3d/). I'll contacto Robo3D to verify if I could get away with the one for C2, but sounds unlikely.

    In the meantime, any idea how something like this can happen? I only pulled at the filament manually, sounds a bit weird to me that the heat break threading can be broke just with human-hand strength?
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Actually, the C2 will probably fit :)
    It is on the same carriage as the R2.
    I can't swear to the fit -- maybe someone with both can chime in -- @Geof has a C2 and an R2 -- he might know (or can check)
     
  5. 4sfaloth

    4sfaloth Member

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    @mark tomlinson thank you for all the help. I will wait for either Geof or Robo themselves (I also contacted their support line) to confirm if the hotends are swappable before I buy anything. It seems to me I am out of luck though, because I just noticed the C2 part states a "19V heater cartridge" while the R1 states "12V heater cartridge".

    Just one more question: is it a bad idea to continue printing like it is now while I wait for the replacement part? I figure it will be a bit harder to load the filament in the hard (since I am missing the top part of the threading to guide it), but after that I can't see much of an issue?
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Just be careful and you are fine. It is up in the cold section of the hotend so as long as it stays together it is not a problem.
    The C2 hotend is physically the same as the R2, the difference MAY be in the wiring length (and maybe the connector, but I seriously doubt that). The hotend on the R2/C2 has pigtails for the thermistor and heater core that plug into the "downtown" board (the one near the bottom of the extruder chassis). I did not think there was a difference in the two since R2/C2 share that extruder assembly as far as I know, but since I only have the C2 to "eyeball" I can't compare them. @Geof has both and can make a better call. @WheresWaldo has an R2, but not -- I think -- a C2 so that wouldn't help either. @tkoco might have one of each -- if so he can chime in :)
     
  7. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Both are the same hexagon as far as I can tell just the electronics are different
     
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  8. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    R2 and c2 hotends are identical except that silly 19v while R2 is 24v. R1 is 12v
     
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  9. 4sfaloth

    4sfaloth Member

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    thanks for jumping in.
    Just to be clear, this means I cannot use the C2 hotend on my R1+, right?
    In the meantime I got an unexpected response from official Robo support:

    > This is just the screw piece on the top of the hotend to keep the middle hollow shaft in place. You should be able to heat that brass part up, remove the filament, and then screw it right back into the hotend.

    Maybe it's worth a short? Not really imagining how I would go into "screwing" it back into the hotend. Perhaps I can just drop it inside the hotend, then try to insert some screwdriver in the middle and give it a few turns?
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You actually can use it. The C2 heater core is rated for 19vdc versus 12vdc which really only means it will heat a bit slower.
    Or swap the heater core from your old Hexagon into the new one :)
     
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    This video shows the assembly of the hexagon -- disassembly is the reverse :)

     
  12. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    If all you need is the metal bits you can. If you want the heater and thermistor NO.
     
  13. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I did this as a trial- it’s a no go if you need to go past 220 :(
     
  14. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    You certainly can.... but if it fell apart once... is it worth your time ? I’d get the c2 hotend and put your heater and thermistor in it

    Edit: I’m not telling you what to do or how to spend your money- I’m just saying what I would do if I didn’t want to upgrade
     
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Ah, well... I used a 24v core in mine (running at the C2 19v) and that worked ok (just slow to heat). I figured the R2 one would be fine too.
     
  16. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Yes but going into the R1 with the r2 C2 doesn’t go so good
     

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