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R1 how to get this LCD to work ?

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by tonycstech, Jun 5, 2023.

  1. tonycstech

    tonycstech Active Member

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    I have upgraded my old R1 from RAMPS 1.4 to MKS Gen L 1.0 board leaving same LCD in place.
    Everything worked fine.
    I changed to another LCD and now it does not work at all. Black screen and speaker making chirping noise.
    When i turn the knob, it resets the board.
    This is the LCD i am trying to use.
    s-l1600.jpg
    Do i need firmwre change ?

    Currently firmware is set to
    #define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER //robo
     
    #1 tonycstech, Jun 5, 2023
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2023
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That is the 4-line Discount LCD so you should be fine.
    I'd suspect a bad LCD. There is (on some) a contrast adjustment potentiometer on the back. If yours has one see if adjusting it brings it to life. On the ones that have it -- it is a contrast adjustment and sometimes comes fully dark :)
     
  3. tonycstech

    tonycstech Active Member

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    yeah i tried that pot, no luck.
    Seller is shipping me another one. Hopefully it will work.
    If not, i have a problem somewhere else.
     
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  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I would not be shocked at a bad LCD. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
     
  5. tonycstech

    tonycstech Active Member

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    Seller sent me another LCD. Exact same issue
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Well, the issue here is that the next step is to suspect the RAMS 1.4 (if this were a stock machine).
    However you swapped the Arduino/RAMPS combo for the MKS Gen L 1.0 board .
    Nothing wrong with that approach, but I have zero experience with that one.

    At a high level it could be the LCD, it could be the firmware or the cables/board itself.
    [do make sure the cables are landed correctly on the LCD and the board since that will cause a blank display if they are wrong]

    I will need to go look later in the workshop and see what stock LCD was on the R1+ (I didn't remember the R1 having a stock LCD, but I will look, the R1 beta did not). If you added the LCD to the Robo you should know which one it was and be able to rule out needing to change the firmware.
     
  7. tonycstech

    tonycstech Active Member

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    The original LCD i had (R1 never came with LCD) is reprap discount smart controller XXL
    The one i ordered from ebay reprap discount smart controller (no XXL)
    See photo of the controller
    s-l1600.jpg
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Maybe worth trying the Non-XXL version if you can get one cheaply (they were sub-$20 last time I ordered one).
    Worst case I may have one in a parts bin.
     
  11. tonycstech

    tonycstech Active Member

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  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    OK, assembled this motely crew:
    SmallLcdCrew.jpg
    No clue if that is an XXL version, I assume not because nowhere do I see the XXL on it.
    Still I'll load Marlin, wire them together and see
     
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Only other LCD I have spared out is the Full Graphics one.
    A bit larger (not 4 lines)
     
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    At this point I am leaning towards the firmware or the board being the issue. Still looking around and assembling the test rig.
     
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Which version of Marlin are you running on that board? PM Me the CONFIGURATION.H from which ever it is please.
    Even if not Marlin there is an equivalent CONFIGURATION.H in most
     
  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Also (in addition to posting the configuration header file) the https://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscount_Smart_Controller_XXL does mention that this one is slightly larger, but functionally equivalent so sanity check that the cables are connected correctly. Incorrect cables will leave you with a partially or totally non-functional LCD (it will not damage it, but it will not work).
     
  17. tonycstech

    tonycstech Active Member

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    I use marlin 6_10
    Stuck in the past for a good reason. I have it fully customized so i cant just upgrade without screwing up big time but i can try just for the sake of confirmation if it is indeed firmware issue.
    I attached firmware i use. Have a look at it.
    I have menus changed to my needs and for my own direct drive extruder so dont get freaked out when you see wild numbers.

    I wonder if wires are reversed going into adapter. Not really sure how to test it.
    Original LCD works with either wires, original or once that came with the new LCD so i dont think wires are reversed
     

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    #17 tonycstech, Jun 9, 2023
    Last edited: Jun 9, 2023
  18. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The wires from the controller (RAMPS/whatever) to the LCD should be the same for either flavor of LCD and for that newer board too, If the original is working then so should the new one. Usually black screen is just the contrast set wrong, but in your case that is not it. I don't have the XXL to compare to unfortunately, but from what I see the wiring to the LCD from the controller is identical and only the screen and font is larger.

    It has been so long since we messed with LCDs since I run OctoPrint on all of our FDM printers (the RESIN printers all have their own web based interfaces and slicers similar to OctoPi) although they all have LCDs too :) I just normally use the phone or a computer to run them.
     
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    PM me the link of where you bought the XXL and I will set bout getting one to try.
     
  20. tonycstech

    tonycstech Active Member

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    The whole reason for me replacing LCD is because the original XXL has an issue with a knob.
    Knob clicks are registering randomly. I can hardly navigate.
    If there was a fix for that, i'd just use the fix.

    Changing
    ENCODER_PULSES_PER_STEP 1
    to any other value does not work in any positive way.
    I think its a problem with the loop its self. It should have been case based rather then continuous monitoring of the events.
    I dont know how this actually works, but from a programmer background, i suspect that is the cause for this problem.
    Continuous look simply cannot register know clicks correctly.

    One solution would be to add a secondary loop once turn is detected, and then exit the loop if no turns are detected for 1+ seconds or so
     

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