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Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Lytmup, Jun 7, 2017.
Is there a way to replace the PEI on this bed? Just wanted to see if anyone has done it yet.
I havent heard of anyone doing it but if its just PEI on a glass bed then yes.
I have five 8" by 8" Lokbuild stick-ons when the PEI wears off. Also the Gecko plate people have a similar product now with a PEI like surface you can stick on your glass.
I was told by a tech that the R2 has a aluminum bed not glass. that is why it takes longer to heat than the R1.
When I called in on Friday about my bed not heating that is what the tech told me...
While I do not have one to point my eyeballs at, but that might explain some of what other people are noticing.
Yes I was able to get my finger nail under the plate, it is really thin actually. Probably another plate underneath it towards the center as it does have some weight to it. Still no clue what the tape is, all my other PEI sheets are not shiny like this is.
I can believe it's an aluminum plate bed because it's thick and heavy. The heater appears to be a thin circuit board, so what's above is fairly thick. If the bed was glass I don't think it would be this thick, as glass is an insulator. And of course there is a PEI build sheet on top that appears to be laminated to the plate - at least I see no way to remove it or take the bed apart.
I'd like Robo to explain what to do when the build sheet needs replacing. I have a minor gouge just from removing a part by hand. Not going near it with the metal spatula they provided. Think I'll buy a sheet to set on top for protection.
The upper plate might be fully removable, I don't know if freezing the glue would work or if it is a nightmare to replace. I can see them selling full plates. Tomorrow I will run a test cube with every brand and type of filament I have to see how they all adhere.
@Ed Ferguson hit them up for instructions then let us know! . I'd imagine you use a chemical to remove the "pei" get it all nice and clean then replace the "pei" much like the instructions for the Prusa I3 MK2. It would be very helpful for us to start logging some of this and we can make the thread a sticky for important things like this (that is not already documented)
Yea, the metal spatula they provided will scratch the hell outta the bed. Learned the hard way with that one . . . . .
Anyone figure this out yet? Who can we ask at Robo for how to remove the PEI sheet and replace it? Mine is scratched bits of it are making the bed uneven now. I didn't realize you weren't supposed to use the spatula, which is stupid because they included it! I've never dealt with PEI before.
I can easily get a new adhesive PEI sheet from Amazon, but I want to make sure I'm buying the right thing and if I'll be able to remove the PEI from the existing bed.
I ran a glass bed with no issues, the IR saw it without a problem. PEI sheet over glass if you want a quick fix. I would email support and see what their plans are, or if the have instructions and sheets in stock yet.
I have started to spray my sheet with AquaNet for PETG, and for PLA I just keep it clean. Which is funny as on my Prusa PEI I need to add gluestick for the same PLA.
On the R2 to remove a stuck print I will spray windex, heat the bed, take it out and remove the print. If I have to use a tools I will use a cake spreader so that covers the PEI and use either CHP-170's or the included bed killer spatula. Anyway, on this printer the bed looks new granted it has limited time. First printer was a bit scratched but overall ok, and my Prusa PEI after a few hundred hours on each machine is fine.
I haven't had any problems removing prints so far, even though I've printed a few wider ones like Raspberry Pi cases. I find that if I just let the bed fully cool down, the prints tend to pop right off with just a bit of force.
Robo doesn't frequent the forum. I would call HQ and ask them for direction. On our other machines we put the bed in a freezer for an hour and the PEI pulls off. Then you have to remove the adhesive and put a new PEI on. Removing the adhesive is the hard part and occassionally (if there is really stuck glue that wont come off) we have to use dlimonene to remove it.
Here is the documentation they gave me with my Prusa if you it helps. Still suggest strongly you call Robo and if you get instructions please make a thread about it with your thoughts and some pictures
I use a painter's 7-in-1 tool, instead of the little spatula that the R2 came with. The blade is thicker, but bevels to a fine edge on the front. You can wedge the blade edge into the corner between the print and the bed, then use the beveled thickness of the blade to lever the edge off the bed surface.
Exactly the same tool we use on our printers. Works like a champ. a tap at the base with that pointy end and off they pop. It has enough mass to make those taps have some "authority"
Well, I send them a message and basically they just said I can replace it with a PEI sheet from Amazon. Apparently how it's done in an official way is a secret they're not ready to share, since they never responded to me a to how.
I think the Prusa method will work once we can get the heater out of the aluminum frame. I'll try it eventually.
I have gone to glass - give that a try and see if you like it better. AquaNet spray is working best for me, been using that for 8-months after trying a bunch of other recommended brands (I use MakerGeeks and ColorFabb filaments).
Nothing special, just redo your Z level and print away. I do warm my bed via OctoPrint before I start anything, but I was doing that with the straight PEI bed as well. Taking me 10-mins either way to hit 70*, but I have not uploaded the new firmware with the bed fix.