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Answered Replacement hotend missing grub for thermistor

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Ed Govednik, Aug 27, 2017.

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  1. Ed Govednik

    Ed Govednik New Member

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    Hey all! Hope someone can lend a hand. I have a Robo3d R1+, and I finally encountered a clog that I cannot remove from the throat using normal techniques. I have a replacement from Robo that I bought when I bought the printer over a year ago, but I noticed where the thermistor should set in using a grub screw, there isn't a location in the heater block. I have a pic of both the old hexend and the new side by side. The heater has a grub, the thermistor is missing. Any ideas how I should set this in without it wiggling loose?
     

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  2. Ed Govednik

    Ed Govednik New Member

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    Oh man, I might have answered my own question. There is a rubber boot that came with the kit. Is that the expectation? You slide this rubber boot over the heater block to hold the thermistor in place? Not sure I like that too much.
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That is indeed how the R1 thermistor was held in place. The R1+ I thought had gone back to to the more standard solution of a screw.
    Perhaps you actually have an R1? Regardless, yes -- that style held the thermistor in with the boot (silly)
     
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  4. Ed Govednik

    Ed Govednik New Member

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    Well, that is a bummer. I didn't mean to end up with the older hex hot end. Anyone know what happens when the boot wears out or tears? Do you wrap it in Kapton tape? Might just be time to look at an E3D solution.
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The kapton tape is a correct solution.

    The E3D is a perfect solution :)

    The newer R1+ version of the hexagon has a canister style thermistor with a set screw to keep in in place.
    That is an option if you want to go a little cheaper. I can't disrespect the E3D. Almost all my printers use it. (the new E3D uses a canister style thermistor too)

    So unless you buy a standard, older hexagon from somewhere else (one that still uses a standard glass bead thermistor) you are going to need to switch to a newer canister style (or, just use kapton tape for now)
     
    #5 mark tomlinson, Aug 28, 2017
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2017
  6. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I've swapped to new E3D with the canistor thermistors and its just ...fantastic. Havent had nearly the thermistor issues I had before. Bit more robust. And should be since they stopped the indestructible stud thermistor :D
     
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  7. Ed Govednik

    Ed Govednik New Member

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    Thanks Mark. Yeah, when I first purchased the hot end replacement kit, I didn't realize it was for the older non plus version of the R1, hence the confusion of why the grub screw was missing on the new hot end kit.

    I put the boot on and set up the replacement end, but it doesn't do a great job of regulating temp. I watch it bounce +/-5c when at full PLA temp. I'm just going to order the correct replacement hot end for a temp solution and look into the Titan Aero going forward. Thanks all for the assist.
     
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  8. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Avoid the aero. To much hassle to get working on the Robo IMO. Go with a titan and V6 combo. (I use one). They work great. That said...the other R1+ is still greg wade with E3DV6 and it works great as well lol.
     
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