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robo c2 z-axis end stopper

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Jonathan Yeung, Apr 8, 2017.

  1. Jonathan Yeung

    Jonathan Yeung New Member

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    Hi,

    Just got my robo c2 from the kickstarter campaign yesterday.
    The printer printed fine during the first print, but as a start the second print, the z-axis end stopper seems have encountered some problem. The build plate will keep going down and would not stop unless I switch off the printer.

    I tried joggling the controls of the motors after restarting the printer. The Z-axis will only go up the steps that I pressed going down. For example, If i force the build plate to go down by pressing six times the motor controller even though the bed is already at the bottom, then it will only move up by 6 times. I also had to 'initiate' the move-up by lifting the bed gently with my hand. It won't lift itself up.

    I also tried pressing the home button in the motor configuration/controller. Again, the print bed will forever keep going down even tho it has hit the rock bottom.

    During the second print, my z-axis thread's top circle thing kinda popped up. I forced it back in afterwards. Wondering if this has anything to do with the z-axis problem?

    I figured it has something to do with the z-end stopper. Any suggestions where that is and how i can fix it?

    Appreciate any help that I can get! thanks
     
    #1 Jonathan Yeung, Apr 8, 2017
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    This is the bottom of the build plate and I circled the probe for the Z switch:

    Z endtrop top.jpg

    This is the bottom plate of the printer (with the cover removed) and I circled the Z switch (looking in from front to back):

    Z endtrop bottom.jpg

    That probe will go through the bottom and trigger that switch.
    Make sure that is happening and that both wires are connected to the switch.
     
    #2 mark tomlinson, Apr 8, 2017
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If the wires are connected to the switch and the switch is getting triggered then the other end of the wiring may be loose, but check those first.
     
    #3 mark tomlinson, Apr 8, 2017
  4. Jonathan Yeung

    Jonathan Yeung New Member

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    (update)

    I found the z-end stopper after opening the printer - the z-end seems to be working, the problem is that the screw doesn't hit the z-end stopper on a regular basis
     
    #4 Jonathan Yeung, Apr 8, 2017
  5. Jonathan Yeung

    Jonathan Yeung New Member

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    So the printer responds to the z-end stopper if I activate it with my hand - but the screw doesn't hit it - should i lengthen the screw/switch it out?
     
    #5 Jonathan Yeung, Apr 8, 2017
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Is is not long enough or is it bent and missing the switch plate?
     
    #6 mark tomlinson, Apr 8, 2017
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yes, if it is not long enough thread it down some more.

    Make sure the switch is mounted correctly and not loose though...
    If the switch was not solidly mounted and moved forward (for example) then the probe would miss
     
    #7 mark tomlinson, Apr 8, 2017
  8. Jonathan Yeung

    Jonathan Yeung New Member

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    just checked the switch to be solidly mounted - screw it not bent and is screwed all the way in as well - i wonder why it is not hitting the switch, i'll see if i can add something to end of the screw to see if it will probe the z-end better, updates in a bit
     
    #8 Jonathan Yeung, Apr 8, 2017
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You can (with some effort) disassemble the plate and screw the probe screw down in further, but that is a pain to get to... lots of screws in the way. Contact Robo come Monday regardless :)
     
    #9 mark tomlinson, Apr 8, 2017
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You might could put some tape on the top of the trigger arm for the switch and build it up enough to work, but that is a hack :)
    Would perhaps get you working in the interim.

    Not sure how they will address this short of swapping the printer since the C2 units are really not service friendly.
     
    #10 mark tomlinson, Apr 8, 2017
  11. Jonathan Yeung

    Jonathan Yeung New Member

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    thanks for the help @mark tomlinson ! still trying to make it work haha.

    btw any plan to add a door just like you did for the r1, could perhaps dim some noise i was hoping?
     
    #11 Jonathan Yeung, Apr 8, 2017
  12. Jonathan Yeung

    Jonathan Yeung New Member

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    [FIXED] - by adding some tape to the end of the screw - should be fixed now temporarily :)
     
    #12 Jonathan Yeung, Apr 8, 2017
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Not me personally, I am not using any filament on it that heat would help and I doubt you are going to get it much quieter by enclosing it. Steppers are (unfortunately) pretty noisy -- they tend to "sing" due to the PWM driving them. You could rig something up I suppose :)

    The (good?) news is that the C2 is already the quietest FDM printer I own. Maybe @Geof can comment on his stable of printers as to which is the least noisy :) He doesn't have a C2 (yet) to compare to, but still. My delta is the loudest of the bunch. Makes all of the Robo ones sound like they are whispering.

    DLP printers are much quieter
     
    #13 mark tomlinson, Apr 9, 2017
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Awesome, although you certainly want to get their tier-2 support folks on the horn during the week and find out how they are going to address it permanently.
     
    #14 mark tomlinson, Apr 9, 2017
  15. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Type A Series pro is my quietest. Not silent when moving crazy fast but at an average run speed you can't hear it. Sigma is bar none the loudest machine I've got and seen.
     
    #15 Geof, Apr 9, 2017
  16. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    You know something I don't ;-). ... Yet lol
     
    #16 Geof, Apr 9, 2017
  17. holmes4

    holmes4 Member

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    I got my C2 from Amazon - the Z-endstop microswitch was misassembled at the factory causing the bolt to pass behind the lever. With some effort I managed to reposition it and attach it correctly.

    unnamed.jpg
     
    #17 holmes4, Apr 26, 2017
    KRGraphicsCG and mark tomlinson like this.

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