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Robo R2 Calibration Cube

Discussion in 'Show and Tell' started by Ed Ferguson, Jun 9, 2017.

  1. Ed Ferguson

    Ed Ferguson Active Member

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    Robo R2 Calibration Cube with small radius edges.

    20mm cube. 0.1mm layer height. Robo PLA. Sliced with Simplify3D.

    Robo R2 20mm cube.JPG






     

    Attached Files:

    #1 Ed Ferguson, Jun 9, 2017
    Last edited: Jun 9, 2017
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  2. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Looks decent. Corners show some accel/jerk setting issues and the bottom layers seem odd (may be the photo) but miles better than my r1+ when it was stock out of the box
     
  3. Ed Ferguson

    Ed Ferguson Active Member

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    The Simplify3D default settings for the Robo R2 first layer are:

    Height 120%, Width 150%, Speed 50%

    I believe that's what made the cube bottom layer slightly oversized. The R2 bed adheres very well, so I'm going to try backing the first layer Height & Width settings down to 100%.

    Photo is taken with a macro lens and strong light to highlight the detail. If you look at the photo with the calipers, you can see the ridges of my thumb print. Compare the thumb print ridges against the texture on the cube. The surface finish is really nice.
     
    #3 Ed Ferguson, Jun 10, 2017
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2017
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  4. usafitz

    usafitz Member

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    What do you use for your Simplify3D settings under g-code? Specifically, the z-axis. My unit gave me -9.2 after the calibration wizard, but I'm afraid it's going to be different in S3D. Thoughts?

    thanks!
     
  5. Ed Ferguson

    Ed Ferguson Active Member

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    Do you mean under the Simplify3D Scripts Tab? If so, I removed their code and inserted this line as a placeholder:

    ;Removed Starting Script from Simplify3D. Start code is in the Robo OctoPrint settings GCode Script.

    If you want to know what is in my Simplify3D G-Code tab, see image below:

    Simplify3D_gcode_tab.jpg
     
  6. usafitz

    usafitz Member

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    Awesome, thank you for posting that. It's nice to see other peoples settings. I always just experiment for too long and rarely can get a snapshot of other users options. Can you show me that script tab too?

    Thanks so much for the insight!
     
  7. Ed Ferguson

    Ed Ferguson Active Member

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    The Simplify 3D Script tab is empty - it contains no code. I only left in a comment line:

    ;Removed Starting Script from Simplify3D. Start code is in the Robo OctoPrint settings GCode Script.

    The comment is just for anyone who may wonder where the starting script is. I'm using the default Robo GCode Script contained in the OctoPrint settings.
     
  8. usafitz

    usafitz Member

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    Cool! I'll try that...never heard of that before. Does the R1 and R1+ do the same thing (have their own settings to start a print?)
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yes, but it is minimal.
    G28, M565, G29 that is about all that is required.
     
  10. usafitz

    usafitz Member

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    My test print came out great (default file on the printer). But when I took one of my old prints, and blanked out the scripts, and put the Z-axis to 0 on the g-code tab, the hot end scraped my plate. I looked at the settings on the printer and it took the zero setting for the z-axis instead of the calibrated number on the printer.

    So how would I make it print using the default z-axis, instead of the z-axis number under the g-code tab in S3d?

    thanks again for the help!
     
  11. Kilrah

    Kilrah Well-Known Member

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    But why??

    You should simply have nothing messing up with the the Z offset at all anywhere.
    You're trying to make it more complicated than it is. You do not need to care about it beyond the wizard, it's calibrated and stored on the printer and that's it, nothing external should touch it.
     
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  12. usafitz

    usafitz Member

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    hmm... I think it was part of the file that I made with S3D. When I load the file on the printer, the touchscreen shows a zero for Z offset. That's why I was wondering how I can slice it without that setting showing up in the g-code.
     
  13. Kilrah

    Kilrah Well-Known Member

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    Set Home Offset is M206, so you might want to search for a place where it's set/used.
     
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Depends on how you print. With the C2/R2 I always use OctoPi (since it is built in anyway). So invariably I have no startup or ending gcode in simplify I leave that up to OctoPrint. If you still print directly via USB for whatevsr reason then you must deal with in on your host program (like Simplify)

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
     
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  15. usafitz

    usafitz Member

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    Yep, I use OctoPi as well. Been using it with my last two printers before the R2 and love it! But I guess I made the habit of doing everything with S3D. Now that I found out the R2 has it's own scripts that it can run as default, it's going to be so much easier to print.
     
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  16. usafitz

    usafitz Member

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    Printing great now!
    Bottom line...trust the z-axis config. I came up with -8.6 and changed it to -7.5 when it wasn't touching the bed. It wasn't touching because the bed wasn't level. So I did the paper test on all four corners, used the bottom screws to make them all the same, and ran the print with the original saved z-axis offset from the calibration, and voi-la!!

    [​IMG]
     
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