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Specs

Discussion in 'Printing Filament' started by tesseract, Apr 2, 2013.

  1. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    Pros: Strong characteristics of wood​

    Cons:​

    Everyday examples:​

    Concerns:​

    Known Issues:​
     
    #1 tesseract, Apr 2, 2013
  2. Soupaboy

    Soupaboy Active Member

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    can the pla version of the RoBo 3d print with wood?
     
    #2 Soupaboy, Oct 5, 2013
  3. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    Taken from a website

    "The hot-end was set to 190°C at the start, and I manually increased the temperature in 10° increments to 220°C back and forth to produce the colour gradient. The bottom of the print is smooth, similar to the finish from PLA, whereas the sides and top are rougher."


    Since he ended up around 220C and the max is set to 230C in the firmware due to possible melting issues in the standard hotend it would be difficult. I am not sure if it requires the heat bed or not upgrading to a new all metal hotend would help with the hot end temps but just not sure about the bed
     
    #3 tesseract, Oct 5, 2013
  4. polylac

    polylac New Member

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    You mean Laywood?

    It depends on the colour you want.
    Temp is from 180-250°C (it gets darker with increased temperature)

    It has nearly no warping.
    But it's soft in the beginning, so it need a lot of time to cool down (low heat conductivity) and getting hard.
    It has also a low densitiy.

    That's all i know.
     
    #4 polylac, Oct 5, 2013
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  5. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    with nearly no warping you may not need the heated bed but the 250 is beyond the range of the supplied hot end so an upgrade of that would be recommended and get the fan going early I guess.

    Biggest issue I have with laywood is its price right now usualy at least double or triple the price
     
    #5 tesseract, Oct 5, 2013
  6. polylac

    polylac New Member

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    yeah but 250°C is only needed if you want a dark colour.
    you can print from 180°C upwards...

    and yes it is a special filament and not cheap (like, lybrick, or flexibel filaments, and so on)
     
    #6 polylac, Oct 5, 2013
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  7. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    I would agree but you never know how accurate the thermister reading really is unless you get some special tools to actually measure it. It could have enough of a variance the getting close to the 230 could cause issue and having taken them apart to fix I would very much opt for doing the upgrade if only to avoid having to do that..

    Funny thing is the new hot end is cheaper than the filament in most cases
     
    #7 tesseract, Oct 5, 2013
  8. Soupaboy

    Soupaboy Active Member

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    with the pla pri ter what the best way to stop warping with pla? big fans? small fans? hot room or cold room?
     
    #8 Soupaboy, Oct 5, 2013
  9. polylac

    polylac New Member

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    ah good news =)
    so then no problem to print even dark parts.
    thx for the info
     
    #9 polylac, Oct 8, 2013
  10. David Mortlock

    David Mortlock Active Member

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    Maybe not such good news. Harry was on the shoutbox disputing this and stating that the maximum temperature for the Robo3D is 230C
     
    #10 David Mortlock, Oct 8, 2013
  11. Harry

    Harry Team ROBO 3D
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    The max temp of the RoBo is 230, unless you have an after market hotend installed. DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT otherwise go above 230.
     
    #11 Harry, Oct 12, 2013

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