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Answered Tall prints (2in+) failing? HELP

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Will . I . Am, Jan 31, 2017.

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  1. Will . I . Am

    Will . I . Am Member

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    So recently I have been printing things that are slightly larger then 2in and each time I print it seems to always mess up and either glob up or not print all the way once you get to the very top of the print. The only variables I have changed are from printing in normal stock settings with "medium" quality to recently a custom setting made known as "vase" mode so you get that nice even look as well as make the object hollow (which I'm not sure how to do any other way?) so I'm not really sure where something is going wrong here exactly and would appreciate some tips or strategies on how to fix the issue. Would an "oiler" and top affixed spool holder help as well? I will post pictures of the failed prints as well as settings used for reference.


    FYI: I have not used support material yet for any of my prints but most of them don't require it as of yet on my smaller prints. Perhaps this may be an issue as well? Just strange how everything prints beautifully till you get to the top of the print then screws up.

    ------------Settings used------------
    Printer head temp:210c
    Heated bed temp:50c

    Layer/surface:
    Layer height- 0.1mm
    First layer height- 0.4mm
    Outer surface- 2 (count/mm)
    Outer surface TOP- 1mm
    Outer surface BTM- 1mm

    Infill:
    Fill density- 0%
    Starting angle- 45
    Infill overlap- 0.06mm

    Speed:
    Infill- 60mm/s
    Top solid Infill- 50mm/s
    Raft- 100%mm/s
    Perimeters speed inside- 60mm/s
    Perimeters speed outside- 50mm/s
    Supports material- 60mm/s
    Bridges- 60mm/s
    Nonprint moves travel- 150mm/s
    First layer speed modifier- 30%



    IMG_1589.JPG
     

    Attached Files:

  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    well the model on the right displays a common problem.
    As the layers get smaller you need to have the slicer do two things:
    1) blow more cooling on the printed model
    2) slow down the printing to give it time to cool OR move the extruder nozzle away from the model long enough for the part to cool some before adding another layer.

    If you try to put melted plastic on top of still melted plastic you get exactly what you see there.
     
  3. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Printing in VASE mode can be an interesting experiment but note that there are a few things to keep in mind. Any plane (or model facet) that is parallel to the build plate will be eliminated during the slicing process. Also note that at the default extrusion width settings the angle in which you can print in VASE mode also changes. If you specify an exact extrusion width you may be able to get more angle out of your shell and possibly eliminate the opening as shown on the top of the skull model. Also increasing the amount of cooling at these smaller or thinner points can help with the globs and firm up the filament quicker when it has to bridge between more vertical sections.

    Vase mode is a special case where the printer will attempt to print the entire model with one continuous extrude. Another way to hollow out your model is to use 0% infill, that will still print the specified number of perimeters as well as top and bottom layers but will leave the inside of the model hollow.
     
  4. Will . I . Am

    Will . I . Am Member

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    How do you slow down the print and add more cooling? Is that the reason it glob's up on the one on the right? And for the left print the skull would these settings changes help with the hole on the top as well?
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I have a minimum of 30 - 40 seconds on most of the Robo prints, my delta is a little better (it has three parts fans) and I can get away with 10 seconds.
     
  7. Will . I . Am

    Will . I . Am Member

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    ok so looking at the link and opening MatterControl i did find the section on where cooling is. Its under "Filament" and is currently set to 10 seconds "slow down if print speed is under" and 10mm for "minimum print speed". Should I try changing it to 40 seconds to help not have that blob of filament at the top of my tall prints? Its still very strange tho that it only happens to my prints taller than 2in and doesn't seems to effect anything lower than that even if the print is super detailed crazy!
     
  8. Will . I . Am

    Will . I . Am Member

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    So should I mess around with the angle of the print? I liked using the vase mode because it gives the prints a more solid once piece look vs the standard 3d printing look of lines over lines or layers over layers. But good to know to hollow out a model just choose the 0% infill option! Im super new to all this 3d printing stuff as its only my maybe 4th print so far so its a very interesting learning curve thus far and when something goes wrong there are what feels like a million variables that could have caused it lol
     
  9. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @Will . I . Am watch the following video for some tips about using VASE mode
     
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