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The challenge of printing clear/transparent parts.

Discussion in 'Off Topic' started by BrooklynBay, Jan 17, 2023.

  1. BrooklynBay

    BrooklynBay Active Member

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    I've taken on the challenge of trying to print something which is clear but only had minimal success. I know that it won't be 100% clear but I have read reviews saying that it's possible to get it to be around 90% which is acceptable.

    The best results so far have been with PETG & PCTG. A 1.5MM nozzle was used but the print quality was unacceptable. The larger the layer height the clearer it gets but it loses layer adhesion once the layers are too thick. My standard 0.4 MM nozzle prints with great layer adhesion but the filament looks like a frosty white or off white.

    To sum it up, clear filament being extruded needs to be as thick as possible to remain clear but lacks layer adhesion & print quality. I'm trying to find the perfect balance of layer adhesion, transparency, and print quality. Could anybody recommend the correct nozzle size & slicer settings?
     
  2. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Check out colorfabb HT clear. They had an old article showing pretty good results
     
  3. BrooklynBay

    BrooklynBay Active Member

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    While doing more research online, many sources have posted good results because they used a solid infill. I'm doing a test print with a solid infill, and it appears to be much better. I'll see how it goes with a large print since the print quality changes after it's been printing for a while.
     
  4. BrooklynBay

    BrooklynBay Active Member

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    My test print seemed to be a little better as far as the resolution, and the quality of the print but it still wasn't as clear as I wanted. The actual thickness is about an inch so the thick infill blocked most of the light going through it.
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  6. BrooklynBay

    BrooklynBay Active Member

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    Will XTC-3D work with any PETG or just with Colorfabb?
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Good question and sadly -- I have not tried that.
    It probably will have a somewhat similar effect on any PETG, but I personally tried it with the ColorFABB and it does indeed work exactly that way with theirs. XTC-3D is not crazy expensive (not cheap either, but heh) so might be worth a try :)
    Not sure I still have any (but I can look) also pretty sure I don't have any non-Colorfabb PETG either. I like theirs :)
     
  8. BrooklynBay

    BrooklynBay Active Member

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    Is XTC-3D made by the same company as ColorFABB? Will acetone have a similar effect?
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    No, completely different company (Smooth-On, Inc.) and no direct relation -- just a happy accident I imagine
     
  10. BrooklynBay

    BrooklynBay Active Member

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    Are headlight restoration polishes similar?
     
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Good question, but not one I have an actual answer for :)

    XTC-3D is chemically altering the plastic and I am not familiar with the chemistry of their product.

    Perhaps give it a try and if not satisfied then go the XTC-3D route (because I know that works).
    Google for : xtc-3d equivalent
    and you get a number of possibilities you could experiment with (I just used it because I knew it worked)

    Thinner walls helps too...
     
  12. BrooklynBay

    BrooklynBay Active Member

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    I ordered XTC-3D on Amazon. They are going to cancel the Smile program soon. It was good while it lasted for 10 years.
     
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  13. BrooklynBay

    BrooklynBay Active Member

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    The XTC-3D came today. I tested it on plain, cheap PETG. One sample was cloudy, and printed with a 0.4mm nozzle while the other sample was a little clearer because it was printed with a 1.5mm nozzle. Several coats were applied, and it's sitting for around 45 to 60 minutes. Some parts were a little clear while the rest looks the same. It might improve when it hardens in a couple of hours according to what I've read.
     
  14. BrooklynBay

    BrooklynBay Active Member

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    It looks like XTC-3D helps a little, so every bit counts. Here's what I've learned from experimenting with clear PETG:

    1. Use the largest nozzle available so the filament isn't compressed while being extruded. I had good results with a 1.5MM nozzle.

    2. A large layer height allows a lot of filament to go out from a large nozzle. Reducing the layer height improves the quality of the print at the expense of clarity. I set the height to 1.5MM to match the nozzle. The print quality was rough compared to a 1MM height but was slightly clearer.

    3. Articles online suggested that a solid infill was the best. My results were the opposite. Thin walls with less infill seemed to be better.

    4. While experimenting with various infill patterns, infill in one direction worked the best since it enabled unobstructed light to pass in one direction. Infill in two directions blocks light since it creates an obstruction when two lines pass. A pattern called octagramspiral in Matter Control with a Slic3r engine, and 10% infill worked the best.

    5. Reduce printing speed to 10MM/S for outside perimeters. Inner perimeters, and infill could be 20MM/S.

    6. This applies to 3D printing in general. Reduce the speed for non printing travel, and increase the Z lift height so that there is sufficient space after each retraction. This will help minimize the chance of shifted layers to keep the print straight.

    7. PETG loses layer adhesion when the temperature is too low. It could extrude at a lower temperature but when you have a thick layer height of 1MM or 1.5MM, it needs a higher temperature compared to a 0.3MM height.
     
    #14 BrooklynBay, Feb 1, 2023
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2023
  15. BrooklynBay

    BrooklynBay Active Member

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    I wanted to upload a photo but I received an error message stating that the file is too large. It's 3.13 MB. What's the maximum size?
     
  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    A few hundred kilobytes, don't even bother. Post on an image sharing / hosting site and then post the link here.
     
  17. BrooklynBay

    BrooklynBay Active Member

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  18. BrooklynBay

    BrooklynBay Active Member

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    I had to design & print tiles for a job. It was an old bathroom with an odd size tile. I wasn't able to match the color but it's the closest that I could get it. The surface was rough no matter how I adjusted the settings, so I added XTC-3D epoxy coating. It came out very shiny & smooth with one coat but is still sticky a couple of days later. It should harden in 24 to 48 hours but didn't. Maybe there wasn't enough hardener added?
     
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That sounds like a reasonable explanation. (Sorry, can't access the pics).
    I didn't have ay real issues with the XTC-3d myself. A bit more hardener is worth a try, you just get a bit less work time on it.
     
  20. BrooklynBay

    BrooklynBay Active Member

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