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Trying PETG

Discussion in 'Filament' started by Jeff Uberstine, Feb 14, 2017.

  1. Jeff Uberstine

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    Will keep everyone posted how it goes, due to the lack of heated bed.

    UPDATE:

    To save everyone reading this thread, the PETG prints came out perfectly. I don't think I will be printing PLA anytime in the future. PETG gives me most of the strength of ABS and prints as easy as PLA.

    [​IMG]
     
    #1 Jeff Uberstine, Feb 14, 2017
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2017
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Good luck !

    I don't know if I have any nylon to try, but I will be trying nylon, alloy910 and a few others today
     
  3. Jeff Uberstine

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    @mark tomlinson Have you noticed the printer always wants to pre-heat to 210, then kicks into the printing temp after the first horizontal line it puts down? Trying to figure out how to adjust that up for PETG, need 245.
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    How are you setting it up to print?
     
  5. Jeff Uberstine

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    Found it, Cura has a Standby temp that is hidden by default. Changed it.
     
  6. Jeff Uberstine

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    First PETG print was flawless. No warp. Printed at 200 microns. [​IMG]


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The jump to 210 first is apparently something OctoPrint is doing. I will find it :)
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Also (IMHO) many folks are getting warp on non-warp-indusive material because of excessive heated bed :)
     
  9. Jeff Uberstine

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    Nope, it's in cura. As soon as I toggled on vision for standby temp and changed it, it fixed it.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  11. Jeff Uberstine

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    @mark tomlinson Nope, it's still doing the 210 degrees at first. Let me know if you find it before I do.
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I suspect it is either an OctoPi preset or a firmware one...
    I will look.
     
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    When it is done with the current print I will experiment some
     
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    OctPrint
    Settings->GCode Script-> Before Print Job Starts:

    G21
    G90
    G92 E0
    M106 S0
    G28
    G29
    G4 S2
    G1 X1 Y1 F7200
    M109 S210
    G1 Z0.15
    G1 X100 E15.0 F500
    G1 Z5 F300
    G92 E0
    G1 F7200

    See the one in bold? That is the culprit :)
     
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    They are simply using that as a preheat starting point. If you use PLA it will need to drop it a tad and if you use ABS it will need to go up. (as examples)
     
  16. Jeff Uberstine

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    Thanks for that. I guess the best idea is to just adjust this before each print type for the given material? @mark tomlinson Or can it just be removed and then the slicer will set the temp in the gcode sent to printer?
     
  17. WheresWaldo

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    I would let the slicer set this, unless the heater is so slow that they thought pre-heating was necessary for user experience reasons. It is not a best practice to leave the extruder heated and really no need to preheat when you are printing, you don't actually save much time since they are whizzing by that gcode using M109 (set and move on) rather than M190 (set and wait).

    And to be clear, that is not a default behavior of OctoPrint, it was clearly added after the fact.
     
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  18. mark tomlinson

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    You can totally remove it.
    They are just preheating the nozzle to something "ballpark" and letting the slicer do it is a much better alternative.
     
  19. Jeff Uberstine

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    Sounds good. That was my thoughts exactly. Thanks for confirmed. Printing my Second PETG print now and all seems fine. I honestly may totally discontinue the use of PLA and move to PETG for everything. Seems like really no downside now that PETG is about the same cost as PLA via HatchBox.
     
  20. STEM_Steve

    STEM_Steve Member

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    Jeff, I noticed in your photo that on the two sides there is a "gap" between the edges. Was that by design or is that just the way it printed? I've noticed on a few prints that some of my edges/ends have this same 1mm (roughly) gap in them.
     

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