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Answered Unmodified Beta R1 not successfully printing calibration shapes

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Nevyn522, Jan 24, 2019.

  1. Nevyn522

    Nevyn522 New Member

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    I'm accumulating a bunch of little issues, and search isn't helping me. I think I'm running into more than one simple problem, but I keep adjusting the wrong things.

    As to modifications:
    - the hot end thermistor died just before I got my Beta. I replaced it with a non-stock thermistor (Amazon product code: B01GB9N0R8) which has completely insufficient thermal data for it -- and doesn't fit in the thermistor hole in the hot end.
    - The z-axis stop was backwards (open end in the wrong orientation). I turned it around, and reattached it.
    - I've "thrown a nut" multiple times trying to get the Z-axis calibrated correctly.
    - I've added a bit of Kaplon tape to the gear for the extruder to limit the "wobble." It's not perfect, but it's improved. I've now seen Locktite recommended, but I'm going to hold off on that for the moment.

    The problems:
    1. PLA extrusion at ~220C is never smooth, even when into open air (I use tweezers to "tease" it out to start).
    2. At 230C, the temp will drop more than 10C and trigger the temperature drop error.
    3. With the parts-cooling fan on at anything higher than 32% (discovered by trial and error), the hot end -- while not in use -- will drop more than 10 degrees and trigger the temperature drop error.
    4. I can hear and see the filament "slipping" during extrusion at temperatures up to 225 Celsius (I didn't try higher).
    5. With the temp set to 230C and holding, the temperature will apparently spike when triggering HOME (to MAX_TEMP, thermistor doesn't register zero -> unlikely a short).

    After spending a bunch of time assuming my print failures were a result of a Z-axis misalignment:
    1. I've taped my thermistor (using Kaplon) to the outside surface of the hot end on the side opposite the heater. When I tried to place it closer to the nozzle (on the undersize), the Kaplan tape caught too much melted filament and cause a complete mess. Is that the right place?
    2. What's the dimensions of the thermistor hole in the beta hot end? I now know enough to look for things like Marlin having the temperature curve available, and am willing to buy the right part (and wait for it to arrive).
    3. I saw one passing comment implying that the fan issue could indicate an issue with the heat block being on the verge of failure. Since bad temperature readings (untrusted thermistor) plus an unreliable heat block could align with the rest of my extrusion related symptoms, could someone confirm that a temperature drop due to the parts fan could indicate I need to replace the heat block?
    4. Is there a way to retrofit the autolevel hardware onto the beta? Because, frankly, I'm bad at it. =]
     
    #1 Nevyn522, Jan 24, 2019
  2. Nevyn522

    Nevyn522 New Member

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    Answer for number 4:
    I just found the thread on how to convert for autolevelling -- but I need a fixed printer first. ;)

    I can't link to it, but a Google search for "robo3d autolevel via mike kelly" should find it for anyone else.
     
    #2 Nevyn522, Jan 24, 2019
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If you have a beta you have an old MkIII J-Head hotend. It does not have a hexagon all-metal hotend. Welcome tot he club -- I have two of them (at least they started that way). All now run E3D hotends and have autoleveling.

    My first suggestion is to replace that J-Head. Printing above 230 with that is quite likely to cause damage to the PTFE liner it uses. It is also not very repairable.

    1. I never attempted to repair or work on the old J-Head -- it was temperamental if you started trying to work on it. However wrapping it with kapton tape to the SIDE of the heater block is fine (not the bottom). Your temperature readings will not be accurate, but they should be consistent,.
    2) No clue. They were not mounted on my machines long enough to even think about examining them.
    3) I do not remember what that J-Head had for wattage. The heater cores will eventually weaken and die and I always use a 40w ceramic core to replace them with -- these are really cheap (maybe $2 each). Yes, if it can't maintain temperature (even with the parts fan on) you have a bad heater. Make sure that the parts cooling fan it actually blowing on the print, not the nozzle tip. That will not help matters. (edit: I do not recall if the J-Head cores were standard size that the others all use so replacing it may not be easy).


    My suggestion is to ditch the J-Head for either a hexagon or an E3D. Pretty easy to do on the beta and once you get it printing the first two small prints should be those brackets for mounting the Z switches so you can convert to autoleveling :)

    Hit me up for any questions, I am probably your best resource for working on an old Beta
     
    #3 mark tomlinson, Jan 25, 2019
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2019
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  4. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Understatement of the year ! When I picked up a beta I pestered non stop and dug through the 2012-2013 forum (it’s dark don’t go there lol)
     
    #4 Geof, Jan 25, 2019
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    "It was the best of times, it was the worst of times, it was the age of wisdom..."

    LOL -- good old days indeed
     
    #5 mark tomlinson, Jan 25, 2019
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