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Discussion in 'Projects' started by Harry, Apr 5, 2013.
printing at higher resolutions always takes longer, due to speed and other factors. If this printer was bad quality I wouldn't be able to do high resolution prints. rostock will print at 100 microns which is standard for most printers out there.
my grading is based on ease of assembly and calibration, instructions available, support, quality of parts, and other factors.
OK.. now that I see where the gap is I can add some material there. I probably made it to thin in that corner. Do you have any other improvement ideas?
i would just cut that whole area off above the redline as pictured above, that would cut down on print time, and filament. I dont see why you need that block where the gap is, should just be one single wall.
For some reason I cant remove that area so I reshaped it. This should solve the gap issue. I also chamfered the bottom corners to match the top. Should I recess the VIKI face so it mounts flush?
Justin where did you get the VIKI cad file I just got mine yesterday and was going to practice creating a drawing of a housing as well.
Also did you get any instructions with yours I just got the VIKE assembly and cabling are there instructions that I need?
Check out these links:
Viki LCD 3D STEP file
Viki Pin description and functions
Viki LCD schematics
Didn't get any instructions but the schematic should help.
Here is what I came up with not to original but it does allow for angle adjustment
From the left Side
From the top
Here you can see how it works the backplate(green) locks into the VIKI box(blue) and the able is locked in by the pin (Yellow) it will be threaded as will the hole it is in so it can be screwed to lock the angle
The back plate is angled in these images.
A perspective shot
and a straight on from the front
The cutout is just deep enough to allow the VIKI assembly to fit flush The hole is approximately lined up with pins that the cables are attached to. It takes three holes to get inside of the robo cabinet one for cable and two for mounting to cabinet. Now I just need to get my printer so I can print these and test them out. getting a lot of projects lined up but it is fun drawing these things too.
Just had to show me up didn't ya Jeff. Lol.
NO LOL I can't even print so it may fail completely
but I am getting better at the drawing stuff though I am learning this solidworks stuff
By the way why do you think I wanted teh specs LOL
Don't worry... We should be able to test print in sometime in 2014.
Now now be nice you should see this new thing I am making a hopefully low cost plastic shredder
no I just need to get an extruder at low cost as well
A low cost plastic shredder would defiantly come in handy. A nice companion for my Filastruder.
Right now I THINK it will handle plastic soda bottles and thinner material but I need to test it I wonder what PETE is like to print with
This is the top view of a layered section of the main cutting wheel it is key so that another iece can go on top and be in the proper orientation
The bottom view shows how each piece is keyed to the other it has two possible positions
to go along with the two alternating rows of cutting teeth
Here is several stacked with a top cover piece and bottom cover piece in place and you can see the two rows of alternating positions I also set back each tooth a bit from the previous one in the same row to make sure the act of cutting is graduated. Each alternate row of teeth cut different postions on the cut line there are three teeth per layer so this stack of 24 ends up with 6 cutting lines of alternating cutting times. Lines 1,3,5 have teeth in positions 1,3,5,7,9,11,13 etc and the alternate cutting lines 2,4,6 have teeth in positions 2,4,6,8,10,12 etc hopefully this lessens the stress on the assembly I am hoping to make these out of PLA because of it hardness but don't know if the thing will simply break up on me.
The teeth are harden steel pins I will have to cut at a 45 degree angle at one end and make a flattened area for locking down and then insert in the larger of the holes and hold it in place with a set screw in the smaller hole.
A box of 100 of these is about $7.00 this assembly as it is shown would use 72
This would be an example of the image from the top cover with the pins in place
IT would all be held together with a 1/4 threaded rod tighetend on the top and bottom covers which are actually concave so there is added pressure when screwed together holding the whole thing together
This whole thing is only about 4 - 5 inches in length and 2 inches in diameter.
The feed plate is angled down to give the teeth the benefit of cutting tip first into the plastic being shredded it also will have a comb plate that matches the teeth pattern to help in cutting like scissors the material should end up about 1/8 inch wide and 1-8 to 1/4 long and should easily go into an extruder The pins are 1/8 by 3/4 but I may make them a bit thicker maybe 3/16 to 1/4. but the process would be the same just a simple modification to the drawings