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Vinyl decal on printbed = awesome

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Racegrafix, Jan 14, 2014.

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  1. algares

    algares New Member

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    Thanks Racegrafix, I'm printing right now. I tightened the y axis belt and sanded the vinyl with 150 grit. Its going really well!
    I'm using the vinyl on top of the blue painters tape and it's way better to deal with. The vinyl is easier to tape into the bed with the tape below. Its easier to remove and it causes less bubbles! Don't throw away the blue painters tape yet...
     
  2. Racegrafix

    Racegrafix Active Member

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    One way to get no bubbles is, windex on glass...lay vinyl down and work it flat with something thin and flexible like a drivers liscense. Ifyou have heated bed...you can heat it up to 70c and mine actually got rid of all the bubbles with only heat.
     
  3. algares

    algares New Member

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    Try it with the tape. You will see how easy it is to apply the vinyl that way.
     
  4. algares

    algares New Member

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    Blue tape + Sanded Vinyl = : )
    20140131_102217.jpg
     
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  5. Chas

    Chas Member

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  6. Racegrafix

    Racegrafix Active Member

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    Eh...seems like a pain to work with. The vinyl we are using is way more user friendly and the heatbed still works like normal.
     
  7. Billm

    Billm Member

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    Why do you use .2046?
     
  8. algares

    algares New Member

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    This was a note from 3d:

    Because of the pitch of our threaded rods and the smallest movement we can make a motor move is 1/16th step, it isn’t possible to achieve exactly 0.200, 0.300, or 0.100 mm layer heights. Instead try inputting these layer heights:
    for 0.100 use 0.1058
    for 0.200 use 0.2046
    for 0.300 use 0.3034"
     
  9. warlocke

    warlocke Active Member

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    Well, I have to say that this vinyl stuff works.
    Had a friend give me a few random pieces of scrap to test with and it pretty much stuck like glue, first print and all thereafter.
    Certainly cheaper and cleaner than Kapton and Hairspray.

    Nice find Racegrafix!
     
  10. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    I'm still waiting on someone to report back how it works with ABS
     
  11. Racegrafix

    Racegrafix Active Member

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    I just gave ABS first try. I had an extruder problem...but got a good first layer down. It bites very hard into the vinyl. When I removed the part, it was stuck much better than PLA.....it was thin, but imagine trying to remove silver duct tape off of a clean glass surface. It stuck hard enough that it pulled the vinyl off. I think ABS may be easier than PLA after that test run.
     
  12. Racegrafix

    Racegrafix Active Member

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    Raised my temps up and had a great ABS print. Stuck better than PLA and had no problems at all. If you are using abs...you must try it. You wont go back to any of those crazy recipes to get it to stick.

    90/85 bed temps worked perfect
     
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  13. Soupaboy

    Soupaboy Active Member

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    Ok, got my vinyl sheet and now I just need to install the e3d.
     
  14. Soupaboy

    Soupaboy Active Member

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    i was printing with vinyl for three days now. Its amazing but my print are sticking too well. i put my cicuit spatual under and hammer it with a metal flashlight to make the print pop off. its awesome i dont ever need to clean, spray, wipe or do anything to it. 10+ prints (approx 3 hours each) and working great
     
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  15. Racegrafix

    Racegrafix Active Member

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    It sticks even harder with abs. I have had 100% sucess rate with abs...no curling peeling or warping. I found on abs its easiest to sacrifice the vinyl and pull the sheet off when bed is still hot...ultra easy that way. Pla i was always able to just pop it off and keep on going.

    Abs has me spoiled now...its way less picky in my opinion. Either way...vinyl makes the whole process a whole lot easier.
     
  16. Soupaboy

    Soupaboy Active Member

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    i want to try abs in the summer when i can open a window for some ventilation...although it may warp.... im getting some vinyl sheet cut to fit my bed perfectly since this is probably something i will be using for along time. a good way to remove pla although time consuming is to heat up the bed to 60 and put a big desk fan blowing at the print for 10 seconds. should just pop right off but my fan burnt out
     
  17. Voyager1

    Voyager1 New Member

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    Thinking of trying the vinyl option for abs - would the stuff you use to cover school books work? In Australia its known as Contact. I'm not sure where to get sign vinyl...
     
  18. Racegrafix

    Racegrafix Active Member

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    Not sure if it would or not. You could probably just find a large decal to try it. Call a sign shop...they usually have a ton of scrap they just trash.
     
  19. Voyager1

    Voyager1 New Member

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    Hi guys - I've managed to find some vinyl to use and it worked a treat. In fact, it worked too well! It tore as I lifted the finished object off the bed and now I can't get it off the bottom of my print. Any suggestions?
     
  20. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    How have I missed this thread until now? Looking forward to trying it out.
    I have a friend who runs a vinyl sign business. I might be able to get a line on inexpensive cut to size sheets.
     
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